Pre-purchase questions! Help! - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #31 10-30-2004, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chetbaker

i get a little confused on these boards because some on here say "$3000 is WAY too much" and others say "snatch it up!"

This is good. It means that some of us think the vehicle is worth less than $3K and some think that it is worth more than $3K. You are going to wait a very long time to find the vehicle that every single one of us believes is worth more than what the current asking price is.

After you get the PPI, add up all the things that you feel that you need to do to it and we can probably attach some costs to those things. Then you will know what the vehicle really will cost you.

Some of the $2K vehicles will cost you $6K by the time you get all the "issues" taken care of. You might as well have waited and bought a pristine example for $6K.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chetbaker

(by the by...i'm a firm believer in trusting my instincts and this car feels like it's the one - god, this is a car i'm talking about!)

Take off those rose colored glasses. Your instincts have no business in evaluating a used car. Wait until you have received the PPI and then make an informed decision on the vehicle. Many a poor choice has been made due to people falling in love with a vehicle that they know very little about.

Chetbaker · #32 10-30-2004, 05:55 PM

Take off those rose colored glasses. Your instincts have no business in evaluating a used car. Wait until you have received the PPI and then make an informed decision on the vehicle. Many a poor choice has been made due to people falling in love with a vehicle that they know very little about.

i was probably a bit too flowery and "ohh (girlish squeal) I love it!" in my post than perhaps i meant to be in regards to this (possible) purchase.

but point taken. i am usually way more practical and bottom-line than you would gather based on my last post. really, i am.

(except that i'm looking at an older MBZ. well, we're all full of contradictions, aren't we?)

rs899 · #33 10-30-2004, 07:27 PM

Chetbaker-

Does this $3000 25 year old car have....

New lower ball joints ?
New Upper ball joints/arms?
New Idler arm?
New tie rods?
New Steering damper?
New center link?
New brake hoses?
New flex discs?
New center support bearing?
New oil cooler hoses?
New rear subframe bushings?
New diff mount?
New motor , er.. engine/tranny mounts?

etc etc

I know PEH would say if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but by now, believe me, ITS BROKE or if it's not, its going to break when you don't expect it. That is, unless its been replaced and documented. If nothing else, you can ask the seller and imply that its needs to be done.

Rick

Hatterasguy · #34 10-30-2004, 08:24 PM

Don't forget all of the rubber bushings in the suspension, for that matter all of the rubber on the car.

It's an old car it will need a bunch of work but it could be a very nice ride. If their is no rust, the body is in good shape, if it is pretty clean with no blow-by and good service records go for it. Offer them $2k and go from their.

220k isn't that much if it was highway driven actually that is a little low, figure about 10k a year:

26x10k =260,000 so it was a daily driver thats a good thing these cars like to be driven.

Chetbaker · #35 11-01-2004, 11:54 AM

so,

just curious, outside of comfort, is the climate control mechanism a huge deal in one of these cars? i got an "the ac NOT WORKING isn't a warning sign" deal from some other posters. is this the same for the climate control or is a non-working climate control system a huge warning sign? does it point to other system failure? will this affect car performance? how often do these give out?

the car's at the MBZ mechanic as we speak (for the PPI) but was just curious about this. any well-informed opinions (the ONLY ones on this board it seems) would be appreciated.

rs899 · #36 11-01-2004, 12:00 PM

The Chrysler designed climate control system is troublesome and somewhat expensive. I believe rebuilt servos go for about $400 for the part. If the system needs a compressor that's another $250 for a new part.

Hatterasguy · #37 11-01-2004, 12:01 PM

If you want AC it could be expensive to fix. Climate control was not and still is not MB's strong point. Although (knock on wood) mine has been very problem free. Other than a minor AC leak and vacuum leak I have not had do do anything to it. It is a nice system when it works!

Chetbaker · #38 11-01-2004, 07:02 PM

so...

i just got the car back from the MBZ mechanic (who happens to be the same mechanic who serviced the car while owned by the current owner - he [current owner] stopped going to the guy because he felt he was being ripped off with $68.00 oil changes. i have to assume there MUST be more than that but that's all he's [the owner] said)

anyway, i met the guy and he only services Mercedes (with the occassonal BMW thrown in. in fact he had some beautiful cars in his garage: 2 450d[s], 280sel, 300d, BMW 733, etc.,...) and i spoke with him for a while and he seemed okay. very straighforward but friendly. was really stern about keeping up maintenance on these cars.

any Los Angeles/Hollywood people out there (needle in haystack much!) have any opinions on Hollywood Foreign Car Services (on Gower)? just curious.

his diagnosis:

1. shudder in reverse IS DUE to necessity for new motor mounts. (not crucial for the operation of the car TODAY but is something that will need to be done sooner rather than later.)

2. needs new front brake pads and ALL brakes need new hoses.

3. needs steering bolt coupling and fluid (steering is a bit loose)

4. AC needs a new compressor (something to work towards as we get closer to the spring) and the heater does not work (servo control assembly needs to be replaced). Expensive but heater is not a major factor here in Los Angeles.

6. + 7. needs new driver door stop, would change fluids and filters,

overall, while i didn't tell him what the owner wants for the car now (turns out he himself offered to buy the car from the owner two years ago but the owner wanted $4000 for it - what he paid for the car) he seemed pretty high on the car overall. thought it was in great shape and seemed to stress that the ONLY major things to take care of were the steering coupling (approx $250.00 w. labor), brake pads and hoses (approx. $350.000. w. labor), and for smoother shifting and driving new motor mounts ($300.00 w. labor)

body, electrical, transmission, paint, engine are in very good condition according to him. no visible rust.

i think i'll offer $2500 and see what happens (again, owner already said he would take $3000 and then said he would be open to me offering a price. KellyBlueBook private party value on this [and they only went back as far as 84] is $2300. also, he's been sitting on this for almost three months and seems somewhat impatient with this process and he already has another car that he want to put in his parking space. given the work needed immediately, i think this seems fair.

thoughts anyone?

p.s. - i'm looking forward to being more hands on with this car. to slowly become a DIYer.

Brian Carlton · #39 11-01-2004, 07:40 PM

Buy it. $2500. would be a very good price if that is all the things that it needs.

george d · #40 11-01-2004, 08:38 PM

I am late joining this discussion, and of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but I say, ..... with that report, go for it!

I bought a 1982 240D this spring, knowing that it would need the A/C rebuilt, and soon after purchase, I learned that it would need new ball joints, but was warned about that possibility on this board before purchase. I have also replaced the motor mounts, and a few other bit and pieces. I paid $3500, perhaps too much, but as they say, a "fair price" is a price agreed upon by an willing buyer and seller.

Good luck, and I hope you will enjoy the experience! There's nothing like it!

George

rs899 · #41 11-02-2004, 07:15 AM

That's a pretty short list of needed repairs. Sounds like a winner at $2500 , but , in your neck of the woods especially, if you miss this one you will find another eventually. Many of these are in nice condition in the west. The one I bought in SoCal seems perfectly rust free. I even found a rust-free 77 280SE in upullit that spent all but last year in SanJose and grabbed most of the sheet metal from that last weekend (50% off sale!!!

)

Just be prepared to replace all the rubber /suspension and steering items if you keep the car any length of time.

The way I look at it- these car are 20+ years old. I am 50. I intend to keep them and drive them for at least 10 , hopefully 20 years. If I bite the bullet and replace all the wear items sooner rather than later , I will have a virtually new car that rides and performs like it was designed. If I did nothing sometime within the next 10 years something would fail and I would have to replace it then, probably at a higher cost. Since all of this rubber has lasted 20+ years, I would expect I will only have to replace it all just one time in the next 20 years. And by then we'll all be running things on hydrogen or...?

Hatterasguy · #42 11-02-2004, 11:53 AM

$68 isn't bad for an oil change? Assuming synthetic is used if it is dino that is kind of expensive. That car really doesn't need much at all, if you want to become a diy do the brake job yourself. Brakes are pretty simple to do.

Sounds like a good buy!

jt20 · #43 10-31-2009, 12:21 AM

Is there a means to determine if shuddering is from motor mounts or a failing trans..... other than throwing parts at the symptom?

...on the 190D