Pre-purchase questions! Help!
 

I've been eyeing a beautiful 79 300sd model in near mint condition (for $3000)
(I live in Southern California)

I would be the third owner (originally owned by a woman for twenty years - with all records, original manuals, etc.,... - and owned for four years by a german guy who just bought a new mercedes and doesn't have room for two cars.)

it's been garaged and the paint is near pristine. interior is excellent. it was one out of only 25,000 or so built with an extra steel tank in the trunk (70's oil shortage and all)

here are the specifics:

new transmission (only 16,000 miles on the new transmission), new alternator, shocks, brakes, transmission (see above). no AC however.

i'm going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow morn for inspection but what should i ask him to look for, specifically for this model? is the "no AC" a warning signal for something?

as well, when i drove it, it ran smooth but when i put it in reverse, there was a slight vibration (nothing when in drive - it's an automatic). what could this be? again, warning signal?

is $3000 too much?

I'm a COMPLETE NEWBIE to Mercedes (i've always owned Volvos) but since I saw this car, i've literally been dreaming about it. want to get some helpful advice before i make a decision.

HELP out there?

thanking someone(s) in advance

I have no experience with this specific model, but I am pretty sure that the A/C is the weakest point of this car, much like my '76 240. How many miles are on the car?

I am fairly new myself but...fairly educated at this point.

My opinon is it doesn't sound like a bad deal. Just for the heck of it, did you do a carfax?

The A/C-I would think you need that where you live. Count on about $1,000 to fix. Unless you do it yourself. ;) Do you know what is wrong with it? Compressor=high repair cost charge= not much $ to fix.

don't know about the shudder or whatever in reverse. Maybe a more senior member will.

All in all, it sounds like a fairly decent deal but you make no mention of the mileage on the clock.

Taking it to someone who knows MBs before you buy is the best thing you can do. ;)

Cheers,

Bill

Cannot make an opinion on the value because the mileage on the odometer is not indicated.

However, with a new transmission and paint that is pristine, you certainly have something valuable to continue to investigate.

A shudder when going into gear could be as simple as old compressed motor mounts. Ask the mechanic for his opinion.

As previously stated, figure about $1K for the a/c.

My opinon is it doesn't sound like a bad deal. Just for the heck of it, did you do a carfax?

YES. I DID. AND NO BODY WORK OR ACCIDENTS AT ALL. (ACCORDING TO CARFAX)

THE SHUDDER HAPPENS WHILE THE CAR IDLES IN REVERSE. IT DISAPPEARS WHEN THE CAR DRIVES (REVERSE AND OTHERWISE). OLD COMPRESSED MOTOR MOUNTS? WILL CHECK.

The A/C-I would think you need that where you live. Count on about $1,000 to fix. Unless you do it yourself. Do you know what is wrong with it? Compressor=high repair cost charge= not much $ to fix.

IT'S JUST ABOUT GOING INTO THE "COOLER" SEASON HERE AND I WOULDN'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THAT FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS FROM NOW. BUT IS THE ac THING JUST A (SPECIFIC) COMFORT THING OR IS IT AN ISSUE THAT POINTS TO OTHER PROBLEMS? CURIOUS.

don't know about the shudder or whatever in reverse. Maybe a more senior member will.

All in all, it sounds like a fairly decent deal but you make no mention of the mileage on the clock.

THE MILEAGE IS 221,000.

DOES THAT CHANGE ANYONE'S OPINION DRASTICALLY? COULD USE ALL OF THE (WELL-MEANING) ADVICE I CAN GET.

p.s.- i just found this forum recently and have been devouring all of the info on here. you guys are greatly helpful!

The A/C is the A/C so far as I know and does not mean you're gonna throw a rod or your tranny will fall out.

Although the price doesn't seem too out of line, you could maybe use the broken A/C as leverage to get a better price. Did the previous owner give any indication as to what is wrong with the A/C? I think you did mention he's a mechanic or something along those lines.

Carfax will only show what was reproted to an insurance co. or the police following an accident. Here in the East we are accoustomed to rust and the body work that follows. Take a magnet with you and go over the car with it to see if it falls off in one or more spots. If it falls, that indicates mud [body filler] and then you KNOW its had rust thats been fixed or been in an accident. A good eye peering lengthwise down each side of the car will clue you into body work as well.

Since you carfaxed it, did the car come from the "rust belt"? The jackpoints are a place to look for rust. The j.p are the holes , two on each side, that you use to jack the car up. They are located on the rocker panels by each door.

The other thing thats a PIA is leaks inside the car. Take a garden hose and go all over the glass and the sunroof [if so equipped] and then look under the carpet, passenger side in the rear. That is the lowest point in the cabin and water will collect there.

Can the you guys think of anything else? I think we covered it. Oh, check and make sure the climate control works properly. A search here will tell you how to operate it as does the owners manual. Thats right pricey to fix when paying a mechanic to fix it.

Cheers,

Bill

If it is shuddering continually while the transmission is in reverse, it could be motor mounts, but it also could be something transmission related. Follow up on this with the mechanic.

Also, while there, ask the mechanic if he can look at the a/c system to determine if the compressor is shot or not. Probably cannot tell for sure, but, might give you some idea.

If the suddering is not the transmission, the climate control works properly otherwise, no issues with the engine, and the a/c does not require a complete rebuild of the system, then you have a decent deal for $3,000.

If you have to dump a grand into the a/c, then you would be advised to have patience and wait for a better one to come along. $4,000 for a vehicle with that mileage is too much, IMHO.

Since you carfaxed it, did the car come from the "rust belt"?

it's from southern cali.

The jackpoints are a place to look for rust. The j.p are the holes , two on each side, that you use to jack the car up. They are located on the rocker panels by each door.

The other thing thats a PIA is leaks inside the car. Take a garden hose and go all over the glass and the sunroof [if so equipped] and then look under the carpet, passenger side in the rear. That is the lowest point in the cabin and water will collect there.

will do so. thanks for the heads up!

Can the you guys think of anything else? I think we covered it. Oh, check and make sure the climate control works properly. A search here will tell you how to operate it as does the owners manual. Thats right pricey to fix when paying a mechanic to fix it.

will do that as well. thanks bill.

You're quite welcome.

Without the help of this forum I would've been in the dark as I was when I got "stuck" on my first Benz.

Just glad to actually help someone with the little knowledge I have learned from this forum.Some of these guys will tear a motor down and put it back together using advice from here. Amazing, but I 'm not gettin' in that deep! :D

I'll rip apart a motorcycle though! Built a really neat custom bike over the winter last year, but thats another story...

Best of luck to ya and let us know what you get.

Cheers,

bill

Chet,

Christ, you expect a perfect car for $3000? Pay $3000 for and expect to pay another $3000 for repairs in a few years and it will still be the best lowest cost car you can get.

P E H

Chet,

Christ, you expect a new perfect car for $3000? Pay $3000 for and expect to pay another $3000 for repairs in a few years and it will still be the best and loewst car you can get.

uh...i will assume this was meant tongue-in-cheek.

no. i don't expeect a perfect car. i was just asking questions about what i should look for. i'm extremely excited about buying a "classic" mercedes but am not naive about "getting what i pay for".

question:

i'm a little confused about the mileage comments. i read about the cars being "tanks" but read also about being wary about a car with "these" many miles. if the engine has been maintained well, what should one "reasonably" expect in terms of mileage before a person needs to think about re-building, replacing, etc.,... an engine.

this car seems to have had a lot of TLC but will get a better idea when i take it to the mechanic. should i genuinely be worried about the mileage?

let me know.

You got a carfax on a 1979 300SD??????????????????????????????

I tried and tried and couldn't get one on mine last year.

First of all, PEH says nothing tongue in cheek. :D

With regard to the mileage, you don't necessarily need to be worried about the mileage, but, as a general rule, engines, transmissions, and rear axles wear based upon mileage and a vehicle with 221,000 miles has more wear than one with 150,000 miles. Clearly this is obvious to you. Can one of these engines go 400,000 miles. Of course, but, they will definitely be down on compression by that time and you will definitely notice the need for some attention. Can the transmission go 400,000 miles? I suppose so, but, this is very unlikely. 200K is considered typical for these units.

You just need to be mindful of the mileage, not be worried about it.

I just looked at the "same" car, only here in N.Y. The car I saw wasn't near as clean as you describe. Over 150,000 orig.mi. A/C worked, but driver door handel, pass. seat handel, back seat shot (cover OK) Cracked discolored leather (no rips) Quarky tach needing a really good detailing and assortied interior replacements, leaks on drivers door, in trunk, rust around steel aux. tank. Asking price is $5,000 :eek:

The way I see it, bottom line, how much is the drive train worth? Take that price and add or subtract it to the interior/electrical/suspension/brakes/tires condition of the car.

If it were me looking at your car, I would have offered $2,000 and see what happens. ;) Then if the car checks out with a good vintage MB mechanic, I'll decide if I purchase it for their or my price.

IWANNANUTHERDIESEL
04 VW TDI PASSAT

Chet,

First: Brian is right.

I have a similiar car with 260,000 miles and if you think I am going to sell it to you or anyone for $3000, you can KMA.

I'm tired of you cheapskates not willing to pay a decent price for a wonderfull car, one that the likes of will never again be made.

Why don't you buy a new car for $20,000 and lose what the MB cost in the first day and what the repairs will cost in the next year. That's what I would worry about. Its called depreciation.

If the body is rust and damage free and the interior is as good as you say it is, its worth $3000 even if it doesn't run. Remember, mechanical parts can be brought back to new, but bodies never can.

BTW, a 300SD is not a classic MB and never will be. Its a work horse and will give you many miles of lowcost and reliable service. That's why I have mine, in fact I have 3 of them I like them so much.

P E H

Ah yes...Mr. Haiges has to come and bring is congenial, jovial responses to this otherwise worth-while and informative thread.

Thanks buddy...about that stick...

Aint noone gonna say something about that second fuel tank?
Whats up with those things? tell me more....
I spent so much time and money getting mine right-
for Veg Oil!!!
Bingo, you hit the lotto on that one,
major bonus, that second tank, imagine that:
a stock two tank system right from MBZ, perfect for a veg oil machine.
Congrats!
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=frm&s=447609751&f=159605551

Demon240,

Many have thanked me for the help I gave them in this forum. I can't please all of the people all of the time.



Jimmie Joe,

How much fuel does the OEM auxiliary fuel tank hold?

P E H

I have a similiar car with 260,000 miles and if you think I am going to sell it to you or anyone for $3000, you can KMA. I'm tired of you cheapskates not willing to pay a decent price for a wonderfull car, one that the likes of will never again be made.

uh...okay. anyway....

If the body is rust and damage free and the interior is as good as you say it is, its worth $3000 even if it doesn't run. Remember, mechanical parts can be brought back to new, but bodies never can.

good advice. and the car IS in excellent shape. regarding the guy earlier who mentioned a much more worn model in NY with an asking price of $5000 (yoinks!)

BTW, a 300SD is not a classic MB and never will be. Its a work horse and will give you many miles of lowcost and reliable service. That's why I have mine, in fact I have 3 of them I like them so much.

well, you got me there. but i'm glad that behind the snarky antagonism you're a huge fan of the car. i appreciate the curmudgeonly tone. despite your verbal semi-hazing, i still want to be able to chant (like the rest of you all) "one of us...one of us".

the extra fuel tank holds approx. 15-20 gallons. (the range with two full tanks, according to the owner is 800 miles)

The way I see it, bottom line, how much is the drive train worth? Take that price and add or subtract it to the interior/electrical/suspension/brakes/tires condition of the car.

If it were me looking at your car, I would have offered $2,000 and see what happens. Then if the car checks out with a good vintage MB mechanic, I'll decide if I purchase it for their or my price.

thanks for that advice.

by the by- i'm extremely impressed by the fervor with which the members on this board love their cars. and the quick response to questions asked. you guys rock!

Chet,

I can't believe the range is only 800 miles using the auxiliary tank. I have gone 750 in my 300SD using the standard tank: 30MPG X 25 gallons = 750 milles. I don't care what the owners manual says, mine holds 25 gallons. But it extremly slow to put the last 3 gallons in the tank because the fuel foams in the fuel pipe. Maybe that's why the owners manual says it holds 23 gallons.

Is that aux fuel tank easily removable for more luggage capacity or is it permanently mounted. I've never seen one, what does it look like? How does the fuel get in and out of it? Is there a fuel switch like my PU truck?

I just returned from a ~7000 mile trip to Vegas and back. I got 28.5 MPG but I pulled a trailer for 2000 miles which cut my mileage slightly. BTW, the only repairs needed were lightbulbs and the inline filter had to be replaced ( I had a fuel system fungus which should be gone because I used Biobor treatment) Not bad for a ~25 year old car with ~260,000 on the clock.

This is the kind of reliability and economy I'm talking about. And you want this kind of car for almost nothing. I think you should buy a new car and loose 80% of its value in a few years and still have a POS.

If you had offered me $2000 for my car you would be in serious danger of being assaluted and if you were on my property, you would be quickly escorted to the perimeter (I.E. thrown out). But then, I am not a willing seller.
I expect my good 300SD to outlast me and if it doesn't, I'll use my 300SDL.

Take my advice: Buy that 300SD for the bargain price of $3000 before some one else does. Cars in that condition are hard to find. You are going to kick yourself if its sold to some one else.

Hope we can still be friends.

P E H

P E H--It's my understanding that tanks,any tanks, might be rated for x amount of gallons but may hold more or less than the specified amount.

I know what you mean about the foam-it's a PIA! You can get additives that claim it will reduce the foam.


Cheers,

Bill

Bill,

But wouldn't the anti foam agent have to be added to the inground fuel tank.

It takes me about 6 minutes to add the last 3 gallons of fuel to get a full tank. I think its caused by the design of the fuel filler pipe going into the tank because the tank is mounted so high in the car. Once the foam can't disperse from the top of the fuel in the car fuel tank, the foam builds up in the filler pipe and can't disperse fast enough in that small of an area.

But most of the time a I add fuel thru an electric in car fuel pump, so the problem only happens when filling at a fuel station when I am away from home.

I tried adding GasX but it didn't work. LOL

P E H

Is that aux fuel tank easily removable for more luggage capacity or is it permanently mounted. I've never seen one, what does it look like? How does the fuel get in and out of it? Is there a fuel switch like my PU truck?

it doesn't appear as if it's removeable. but i'm not sure. it's mounted in the back right-hand side of the trunk - a stainless steel, somewhat rectangular box with a fuel cap at the top right. there is a small fuel switch to the right of the tank on the "floor" of the trunk. i've yet to look at it closely (i'm taking the car to my mechanic tomorrow morn - the owner was out of town for a trip and had the car stored in his girlfriend's garage so i won't get the car until this afternoon) but he showed me the switch and the tank.

as for the 800 miles, i'm only going by the owner's claims. and i may need to find out if this was a TOTAL of 800 miles with the fuekl tank OR an additional - which doesn't make any sense. i may have to discover the mileage for myself. YOU GET 700 MILES on your regular tank? that's incredible! although the owner mentioned that he gets about 25 mpg with the car. again, i'll have to discover this on my own.

i'll admit, the tank does take up a good portion of the trunk, (maybe 1/4) but i've never been one to store stuff in my car trunk so as for storage space, i'm not particularly concerned. (famous last words!)

Take my advice: Buy that 300SD for the bargain price of $3000 before some one else does. Cars in that condition are hard to find. You are going to kick yourself if its sold to some one else.

it's been so hard to not seem too eager with this owner - i want to maintain a "perceived coolness" in case i want to negotiate - but i've seen about 6 cars since my search began and this is by far the best. is it wrong that i've actually had dreams about this car?

Hope we can still be friends.

aww P.E.H., are you really a softie under all of that growl? LOL.

i appreciate all of the advice. will let all know more when i get that car in my clutches!

P E H--I think you can get the antifoam stuff to put right into your tank. Don't see what the diff would be-in the ground or in the car.

Also, what model car do you have? My "85 300td fills up right to the top with no problem. Maybe your vent is a little clogged?

I don't know if its my imagination or not but it seems to me some fuels foam more than others. That could be caused by how fast its being pumped in. You think so?

I'm looking into WVO so my foam problems won't be as frequent :D

Cheers,

Bill

I mistakenly started another thread regarding some monday-morning second-guessing about how i "sort-of" passed this car over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

Chet,

First: Brian is right.

I have a similiar car with 260,000 miles and if you think I am going to sell it to you or anyone for $3000, you can KMA.

I'm tired of you cheapskates not willing to pay a decent price for a wonderfull car, one that the likes of will never again be made.

Why don't you buy a new car for $20,000 and lose what the MB cost in the first day and what the repairs will cost in the next year. That's what I would worry about. Its called depreciation.

If the body is rust and damage free and the interior is as good as you say it is, its worth $3000 even if it doesn't run. Remember, mechanical parts can be brought back to new, but bodies never can.

BTW, a 300SD is not a classic MB and never will be. Its a work horse and will give you many miles of lowcost and reliable service. That's why I have mine, in fact I have 3 of them I like them so much.

P E H



Sorry Chet, I couldn't resist.

But, PEH does have a very good point with regard to these vehicles.

Can you take it to a qualified mechanic for a PPI? This would allay any fears you currently have about all the little things that might not be little things after all.

I additionally should remind you that you should continue an existing thread, since it is the identical topic, rather than start this new one.


my bad. (about the NEW Topic.)

have already called the owner and am taking it Monday morn to a MBZ mechanic (rather than my mechanic who started hating on the MBZ diesel as soon as I drove it up to his bay)

thanks for the gentle chuffing. i deserve it.

I just posted to your other thread.

I would take a look at the climate control servo (mine is new- do a seach here) these can be expensive. And check the condition of the rubber winshield seals and rear window rubber. I passed on several around here that looked good but had rotten floors due to owner neglect in changing these seals. The SoCal car I bought needs seals and started rusting the driver's floor , but I caught it in its early stages and its not a problem. MBZ put soundproofing on the floors that after 25 years wants to hold water like a sponge.

PEH is absolutely right. Its all about the body. Everything else can be replaced if need be. But, I still say, in your area, I would take my time and look around. There are SO many good old MBZs there, and so little time.....

get the Sd
 

I AGREE with P E H.
best wishes always,
spo out :cool:

PEH is absolutely right. Its all about the body. Everything else can be replaced if need be. But, I still say, in your area, I would take my time and look around. There are SO many good old MBZs there, and so little time.....


i know. i see them around me all the time...tempting me...mocking me. LOL.

so...i've been scouring craigslist and autotrader.com in the l.a. area but every car i've called on has been (and i give the owners props for the honesty) riddled with warning signs (no records, dings in the body, unsure of the transmission history,etc.,...).

for example:

one guy offered a 76 300d on craigslist (honey brown exterior, tan interior) for 2500 (will take no less than $2000). 168,000 mi. but he has no idea of how many owners, no records, some re-painting done on the body, silicon fix on the windshield seal, tears in the seats, cracks on the dash, etc.,...

another guy i spoke with the other day (in torrance, ca) apparently buys 85 300D (s) (specifically, it seems) and sells them back to the european market as taxis. i'm always a little skeeved out by "dealers" because i (inherently) don't trust them. he "offered" me an 84 300d (189,000mi for $2750) but i think i'm gonna pass on even looking at it. (warning bell! he only accepts cash!)

so, that's sort of indicative of what i've been coming up against.
again, when i do the PPI on this and if it comes back okay (i'll expect a couple of things to be wrong) i may offer him $2500-2700 and see what happens from there. he says he has another person looking at it but i don't think so. he's been trying to sell the car since august.

thanks to you guys, i already have a specific check list to give to the mechanic on monday.

Chet,

There is a big difference between $2K cars and $3K cars. You have seen plenty of $2K cars. They are advertised between $2K and $3K, and, trust me, you don't want to own one of them if you got it for free.

A solid $3K vehicle has no issues with the engine or the transmission, has good tires, a fully functional climate control system, and a rust free body with decent paint. Now, if you want to buy this $3K vehicle for $2K, you may be able to do that if you search hard enough and wait long enough. There are deals out there, but, the first knowledgable person who sees such a vehicle will buy it instantly.

BTW, you will NEVER find such a vehicle from a dealer. If they found a true $3K vehicle, they would dress it up and try to get $5K for it.

How long do you want to wait in an attempt to save $1K?

How long do you want to wait in an attempt to save $1K?

i'll spend the $200 or so on the PPI and then go from there.

i get a little confused on these boards because some on here say "$3000 is WAY too much" and others say "snatch it up!" :confused:

this will be my first MBZ Diesel so I want to at least feel (in my own obsessive mind) that I did my "due diligence".

(by the by...i'm a firm believer in trusting my instincts and this car feels like it's the one - god, this is a car i'm talking about!)

This is good. It means that some of us think the vehicle is worth less than $3K and some think that it is worth more than $3K. You are going to wait a very long time to find the vehicle that every single one of us believes is worth more than what the current asking price is.

After you get the PPI, add up all the things that you feel that you need to do to it and we can probably attach some costs to those things. Then you will know what the vehicle really will cost you.

Some of the $2K vehicles will cost you $6K by the time you get all the "issues" taken care of. You might as well have waited and bought a pristine example for $6K.


Take off those rose colored glasses. Your instincts have no business in evaluating a used car. Wait until you have received the PPI and then make an informed decision on the vehicle. Many a poor choice has been made due to people falling in love with a vehicle that they know very little about.

Take off those rose colored glasses. Your instincts have no business in evaluating a used car. Wait until you have received the PPI and then make an informed decision on the vehicle. Many a poor choice has been made due to people falling in love with a vehicle that they know very little about.

i was probably a bit too flowery and "ohh (girlish squeal) I love it!" in my post than perhaps i meant to be in regards to this (possible) purchase.

but point taken. i am usually way more practical and bottom-line than you would gather based on my last post. really, i am.

(except that i'm looking at an older MBZ. well, we're all full of contradictions, aren't we?)

Chetbaker-

Does this $3000 25 year old car have....

New lower ball joints ?
New Upper ball joints/arms?
New Idler arm?
New tie rods?
New Steering damper?
New center link?
New brake hoses?
New flex discs?
New center support bearing?
New oil cooler hoses?
New rear subframe bushings?
New diff mount?
New motor , er.. engine/tranny mounts?

etc etc

I know PEH would say if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but by now, believe me, ITS BROKE or if it's not, its going to break when you don't expect it. That is, unless its been replaced and documented. If nothing else, you can ask the seller and imply that its needs to be done.


Rick

Don't forget all of the rubber bushings in the suspension, for that matter all of the rubber on the car. :D

It's an old car it will need a bunch of work but it could be a very nice ride. If their is no rust, the body is in good shape, if it is pretty clean with no blow-by and good service records go for it. Offer them $2k and go from their.


220k isn't that much if it was highway driven actually that is a little low, figure about 10k a year:

26x10k =260,000 so it was a daily driver thats a good thing these cars like to be driven.

so,

just curious, outside of comfort, is the climate control mechanism a huge deal in one of these cars? i got an "the ac NOT WORKING isn't a warning sign" deal from some other posters. is this the same for the climate control or is a non-working climate control system a huge warning sign? does it point to other system failure? will this affect car performance? how often do these give out?

the car's at the MBZ mechanic as we speak (for the PPI) but was just curious about this. any well-informed opinions (the ONLY ones on this board it seems) would be appreciated.

The Chrysler designed climate control system is troublesome and somewhat expensive. I believe rebuilt servos go for about $400 for the part. If the system needs a compressor that's another $250 for a new part.

If you want AC it could be expensive to fix. Climate control was not and still is not MB's strong point. Although (knock on wood) mine has been very problem free. Other than a minor AC leak and vacuum leak I have not had do do anything to it. It is a nice system when it works!

so...

i just got the car back from the MBZ mechanic (who happens to be the same mechanic who serviced the car while owned by the current owner - he [current owner] stopped going to the guy because he felt he was being ripped off with $68.00 oil changes. i have to assume there MUST be more than that but that's all he's [the owner] said)

anyway, i met the guy and he only services Mercedes (with the occassonal BMW thrown in. in fact he had some beautiful cars in his garage: 2 450d[s], 280sel, 300d, BMW 733, etc.,...) and i spoke with him for a while and he seemed okay. very straighforward but friendly. was really stern about keeping up maintenance on these cars.

any Los Angeles/Hollywood people out there (needle in haystack much!) have any opinions on Hollywood Foreign Car Services (on Gower)? just curious.

his diagnosis:

1. shudder in reverse IS DUE to necessity for new motor mounts. (not crucial for the operation of the car TODAY but is something that will need to be done sooner rather than later.)

2. needs new front brake pads and ALL brakes need new hoses.

3. needs steering bolt coupling and fluid (steering is a bit loose)

4. AC needs a new compressor (something to work towards as we get closer to the spring) and the heater does not work (servo control assembly needs to be replaced). Expensive but heater is not a major factor here in Los Angeles.

6. + 7. needs new driver door stop, would change fluids and filters,

overall, while i didn't tell him what the owner wants for the car now (turns out he himself offered to buy the car from the owner two years ago but the owner wanted $4000 for it - what he paid for the car) he seemed pretty high on the car overall. thought it was in great shape and seemed to stress that the ONLY major things to take care of were the steering coupling (approx $250.00 w. labor), brake pads and hoses (approx. $350.000. w. labor), and for smoother shifting and driving new motor mounts ($300.00 w. labor)

body, electrical, transmission, paint, engine are in very good condition according to him. no visible rust.

i think i'll offer $2500 and see what happens (again, owner already said he would take $3000 and then said he would be open to me offering a price. KellyBlueBook private party value on this [and they only went back as far as 84] is $2300. also, he's been sitting on this for almost three months and seems somewhat impatient with this process and he already has another car that he want to put in his parking space. given the work needed immediately, i think this seems fair.

thoughts anyone?

p.s. - i'm looking forward to being more hands on with this car. to slowly become a DIYer.

Buy it. $2500. would be a very good price if that is all the things that it needs.

I am late joining this discussion, and of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but I say, ..... with that report, go for it!

I bought a 1982 240D this spring, knowing that it would need the A/C rebuilt, and soon after purchase, I learned that it would need new ball joints, but was warned about that possibility on this board before purchase. I have also replaced the motor mounts, and a few other bit and pieces. I paid $3500, perhaps too much, but as they say, a "fair price" is a price agreed upon by an willing buyer and seller.

Good luck, and I hope you will enjoy the experience! There's nothing like it!

George

That's a pretty short list of needed repairs. Sounds like a winner at $2500 , but , in your neck of the woods especially, if you miss this one you will find another eventually. Many of these are in nice condition in the west. The one I bought in SoCal seems perfectly rust free. I even found a rust-free 77 280SE in upullit that spent all but last year in SanJose and grabbed most of the sheet metal from that last weekend (50% off sale!!! :D )

Just be prepared to replace all the rubber /suspension and steering items if you keep the car any length of time.

The way I look at it- these car are 20+ years old. I am 50. I intend to keep them and drive them for at least 10 , hopefully 20 years. If I bite the bullet and replace all the wear items sooner rather than later , I will have a virtually new car that rides and performs like it was designed. If I did nothing sometime within the next 10 years something would fail and I would have to replace it then, probably at a higher cost. Since all of this rubber has lasted 20+ years, I would expect I will only have to replace it all just one time in the next 20 years. And by then we'll all be running things on hydrogen or...?

$68 isn't bad for an oil change? Assuming synthetic is used if it is dino that is kind of expensive. That car really doesn't need much at all, if you want to become a diy do the brake job yourself. Brakes are pretty simple to do.

Sounds like a good buy!

Is there a means to determine if shuddering is from motor mounts or a failing trans..... other than throwing parts at the symptom?



...on the 190D