Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 10-31-2004, 05:22 AM
jcd jcd is offline
village idiot
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,102
Here's what I did and it helped

1. Cleaned the housing with Windex.
2. Painted the reflectors with gloss white paint
3. Replaced the rheostat
4. Bought the a xenon bulb "upgrade".

The combination helped, but if you are expecting a bright dash panel, hold a flashlight in your mouth.

JCD

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 10-31-2004, 02:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 12
Thanks for all the wonderfull suggestions, but I liked JCD's suggestion to hold a torch at noght :p

It just occured to me. If the reflective surface is painted, wont the the paint chip-off within few months. What if small pieces of kitchen aluminum foil be glued instead. Have any one tried that?
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-31-2004, 02:46 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 645
Dashboard lights & aluminum

I used sticky aluminum tape. Cleaning the prisms and the rest of the panel helped a litle, but it is still far too dim.

I don't think that the paint would chip off. It's not out in the weather. The numbers on te speedometer are painted on and they seem to stay stuck pretty well.

I think the key is to use a number of LEDs. The difficulty is that the one I have seen are of far lower voltage. I know that they can be linked in series, or is it parallel to get them to run on 12v. 2+2+2+2+2+2=12, but I am unsure about how to do this, since I am no expert on electricity.

I was thinking about using fiber-optic strands as well. If someone will whomp up a design, I bet I can find the materials.
__________________
Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 10-31-2004, 03:13 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 2
Jumpered Rheostat still no light

I had my cluster out yesterday. The two 3W bulbs were burnt so I replaced them and jumpered the rheostat but I still have no dash lights. I checked the fueses and they look good. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm lost on this one.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-01-2004, 04:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 12
Richard Eldrich, I was thinking more in the terms of the heat generated by the bulb might burn the paint in due course of time (few months) and the paint might just chip off... unlike the odo digit paint which is not exposed to the heat from the bulb, at least not directly.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 11-01-2004, 04:20 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
Senior Benz fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hells half acre (Great Falls, Virginia)
Posts: 16,007
Hell, My 116 cluster is bright..........all I did was clean it when I replaced the Tach my flakey regulator smoked before I found out I had a flakey regulator.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 07-25-2005, 02:05 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
You will need to put a current limiting resistor in series with the LED(s), or they'll FRY! Had a look at putting some Blue LED's in, but they just weren't bright enough. I think that if you get some ultra-bright LED's, and use 2 or 3 of them per side, they might work. Gotta watch out for the polarity, though, LED's only work one way i.e they have a +ve and -ve terminal.

You won't be able to use the standard rheostat with LED's though. The rheostat has only a few ohms of resistance, and the LED's won't draw anywhere near enough current to cause a significant voltage drop.

Oh, yeah! how big should the current limiting resistor be? For a single LED, use about 330 Ohms, 1/4W should be fine. For 2 LED's in series, about 260 Ohms should be good. For 3 LED's in series, about 160 Ohms should do it. This assumes 3V per LED and an operating current of 30mA. For 2 or 3 LED's in PARRALEL, use 330 Ohms. You normally wouldn't put LED's in parallel, though, because some will be brighter than others. You CAN put two series strings in parallel with each other though, as long as each string has its own resistor

Series: +12v |-------/\/\/\/\-----|>|-----|>|-----|>|-----|Gnd


Parralel: +12v |-------/\/\/\/\-----+-----|>|----+----|Gnd
| |
+-----|>|----+
| |
+-----|>|----+


Tony

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Eldridge
I used sticky aluminum tape. Cleaning the prisms and the rest of the panel helped a litle, but it is still far too dim.

I don't think that the paint would chip off. It's not out in the weather. The numbers on te speedometer are painted on and they seem to stay stuck pretty well.

I think the key is to use a number of LEDs. The difficulty is that the one I have seen are of far lower voltage. I know that they can be linked in series, or is it parallel to get them to run on 12v. 2+2+2+2+2+2=12, but I am unsure about how to do this, since I am no expert on electricity.

I was thinking about using fiber-optic strands as well. If someone will whomp up a design, I bet I can find the materials.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 07-25-2005, 04:05 AM
locry's Avatar
I love this place!!! :)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Philippines, ...recently submerged, AGAIN
Posts: 1,020
OK,

i successfully brightened up my dash lights in my 124 by using... drum roll please... fine sandpaper!!!

the 124 dash uses this clear plastic piece which directs the light from the bulb to shine to the dash. the slightly curved part at the end of the piece is where the light eventually ends up, thus illuminating the dash.

what i did was i sanded this part to dull the surface, effectively "frosting" the area where the light "exits"... this more effectively illuminates the dash because most of the light gets "trapped" in the frosted area... (diffusion?)

i don't know if i used the correct terms but trust me, it worked for me.

you can try this on a small part of the plastic thingy, you'll notice that the dulled part will show more light
__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-26-2005, 05:24 AM
redbaronph123's Avatar
Brick right foot..
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Philippines
Posts: 289
not everyone would agree to this.. but it is an alternative...

Just sharing: My Dash Lighting Project
__________________
Mike

----------------------------------
1975 200 - Sold (no pix);
1978 200 - Sold - http://www.pbase.com/hboy/redbaron
1979 300TD - Sold
http://www.pbase.com/hboy/greenwagon
http://www.geocities.com/hboy726/300TD.html
1985 230E - now my daily driver...
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 08-20-2005, 01:47 AM
H-townbenzoboy's Avatar
Now Y2K Compliant
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,338
All I did was clean the prisms with alcohol, clean the white reflector with alcohol too, then paint it flat white with some model paint, installed some new bulbs of the same wattage, and tonight, I was able to see the odometer and trip lights without straining for the very first time.
-Joe
__________________
'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 08-20-2005, 08:52 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Matthews, NC
Posts: 1,356
I know I will get some flack from this but......
In my old 84 500 SEL, I cleaned the white reflectors and painted them "bright silver", cleaned all the rest of the parts and installed (here it comes) some Eiko 194 bulbs. The Eiko bulbs are rated at 14V .27A which comes out to 3.8 W. Be carefull not all 194 bulbs are created equal.
I did this about 3 years ago and have had no problems and can see the guages with the brightness turned down quite a bit. You can try this at your own risk.
By the way, I have all the parts I would need to replace anything that melts.

__________________
84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page