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  #1  
Old 11-01-2004, 07:14 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
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I'm going to fix the trans leaks this winter but I need some advice!

Ok I have decided over winter break I will fix the trans leaks. The car is a 1987 300SDL. The front and rear main seals are doing a pretty good job of stoping my undercarage from rusting! The trans looks fairly simple to pull and I will have air tools and a trans jack. Is their anything I should know? Also the rear main seal will be so simple to replace while I'm back their but should I? It is dry now so should I even bother it? The new one could leak!

Here is a list of what needs to be replaced:

F/R trans seals
rear main (maybe)
Trans mount
shifter bushing

I also plan on pulling the driveshaft and getting it's balance tested.
I will replace the following driveshaft related items:
F/R flex discs
support bushing

The diff mount is looking pretty bad so I will swap that out while I'm under their.

I have a few questions what other seals on the outside of the trans should be changed? I will clean it up and I want it perfectly dry when it goes back in. I don't want any more leaks.

Will this give me access to any engine seals that I should do while I'm in their?

I can't wait to get this project done my driveline will be close to perfect. All of the mechanical/driveline issues will be taken care of! Yes I can see the light at the end of the tunnel! I am also getting 4 new Bilstein comfort shocks for Xmas (thanks mom and dad ) So come January I can enjoy a smooth leak free ride!

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  #2  
Old 11-01-2004, 07:23 PM
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I have done it a couple different ways. One being pull the tranny and just replace the front/rear transmission seals and the other was to pull the tranny and take it to my local, reputable independent where he "re-sealed" it. The re-seal consisted of all the seals in the transmission and ran around $250 for parts and labor.

I would most definitely change the engine rear main while you are in there.

If money allows go ahead and have the driveshaft rebuilt with a new center support bearing, u-joint and balance. Have a reputable driveshaft shop do this job because it is not really a job for a diy'er type.

Clean out the evap drain holes while everything is opened up under there.

Make sure you get the car high enough to allow clearance to get the tranny out from under it and make sure it is secure.
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2004, 07:26 PM
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Location: Syracuse, NY
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Hey There.........

I do want to follow this thread. I may be in your shoes at some point.

Over the past week I(we) have done the following to The Big Dog.

New Control Rod Bushings
New Continental Extreme Contacts
Front Bilstein Comforts - Back to be done within a day or 2
Diesel Purge - All new fuel filters
Power Steering Flush.

Next is:

Motor Mounts - Trans. Mount
Rear Comforts
Shift Bushing
Brass Fuses

Lastly will be to completely clean the undercarriage so as to start following the leak trails.

Like someones signature here says - Mercedes Diesels do not leak oil, they just mark their spot!

Stephen
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2004, 09:06 PM
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Location: Eastern TN
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Do some reading on the B2 piston and see if there's preventive maintenance you can do while the tranny's out.

http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/b2piston.htm

http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/b2piston107.htm

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  #5  
Old 11-01-2004, 10:21 PM
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One more painfull reason to have a shop reseal the transmission is to have them check the bushings behind the seals. Sometimes a worn bushing will cause a seal to wear. If you have a bad bushing and you just replace the seal, well you will be replacing it again soon.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:04 PM
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Well since the trans is starting to slip maybe I should just get it rebuilt and be done with it. $250 to get it resealed vs $1000. I was thinking about just replacing the seals that were leaking and then putting it back in. But maybe it might not be worth it?

engatwork where are the evap core drain holes? Also about what does it cost to get the driveshaft rebuilt? Their is a local place that can do it.


Smoooth good work! Replace the engine shocks they will make more of a difference then the mounts. Also get the engine shock mount kits. I still need to replace those. When my shocks went bad they dumped their fluid on the bushings making them fall apart.
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Well since the trans is starting to slip maybe I should just get it rebuilt and be done with it. $250 to get it resealed vs $1000.

Hattie, how are you going to get that trans rebuilt properly for $1K? I would be very hesitant to go to a shop that claims to rebuild it properly for that price. Hell, the cost to do the 903 trans in the Dodge van that I have is already close to $800. at the shop that I have known for years. This hardly compares to the cost of M/B transmission components.
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:16 PM
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I was just throwing out a number. Adsitco has them for $1195 that seems like a pretty decent price.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:16 PM
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I've heard nothing but good about Connecticut Driveshaft. IIRC, they were in the Honeyspot area of Stratford.
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Burton
I've heard nothing but good about Connecticut Driveshaft. IIRC, they were in the Honeyspot area of Stratford.
Thats where my driveshaft is going! My dad likes them.
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  #11  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
I was just throwing out a number. Adsitco has them for $1195 that seems like a pretty decent price.
It's a fantastic price. But, what do you get????????
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  #12  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:29 PM
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Good point, they come with a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty. I will have to look into this further. I thought these trans were cheap to rebuild? Their only a 4spd they don't even have over drive!
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:32 PM
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I know they do not come with a torque converter, and the warranty only applies if you buy a new one with it
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2004, 12:59 PM
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Last driveshaft I had rebuilt/balanced ran $250.
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2004, 06:12 PM
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$250 thats not bad at all! I thought it would run at least twice that. So I'll figure $500 for a rebuilt and balanced drive shaft+two flex discs and a center bearing. I might just replace the leaking seals and put my trans back in. It might last another few years the slipping isn't that bad. I will have to think about it and look into it further.

Now on to oe vs oem parts. I noticed the discs sold on Fastlane have different nuts and bolts. Is one brand better then the other?

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