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#1
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MY exhaust is in the street
I'm away at school and my mom had to drive my car for a couple days even though exhaust was barely hanging on. The other day when I went home to the neighboorhood to vote she told me to look at the car because something happened to the muffler and my exhaust was in two pieces. It looked like rust ate through it right at the middle where the front part and the rear parts connect. I had no time to reall do anything and probably wont but I'm not sure if I should take this to an MB person or a welder becuase I really cannot spend any more serious money on my car. any help greatly appreciated.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
#2
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You really need to replace both mufflers if the pipe rusted through, MB makes tough exhausts. By the time the pipes rust through, the mugglers are gone too.
You can take your chances on a muffler shop being able to weld a pipe in. This will work so long as there is enough pipe left to repair it -- if it's paper thin, it won't be possible to weld it at all. A new set of mufflers won't be cheap, though -- I just dropped $450 on the TE last month. Sure does sound better, though! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Just out of curiosity, do most people buy MB or equivilent brand mufflers for their old diesels, or will the one size fits all mufflers from any shop work just as well? Just for planning purposes, I have noticed that MB specific mufflers are quite spendy. I'm trying to imagine what a $10 glass pack would sound like on a 240 or 300.
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'82 240D Euro 68K and growing Last edited by apache; 11-03-2004 at 11:32 PM. |
#4
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Hard to believe that these Benz diesels can actually loose a muffler to rust. The '68 had it's original system still in place in 1990 when I stopped driving it. The '83 appears to still have it's in place today as well. Experience here in NE Okla is that the fuel protects the inside and there is not much salt used to go after the exterior. Thankful for local conditions.
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
#5
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A straight pipe would be ok on a turbo engine. I've got just a resonator, and the engine is still louder than the exhaust.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#6
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Muffler shop
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#7
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I'll try and get under there and get a better look this weekend. The car is in the street right now though. Is there any way to get it up into the driveway. Its just a couple yards away.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
#8
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Just wire any loose items up to the mount brackets and then run it into the drive. Shouldn't be a real big problem.
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
#9
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Quote:
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198? 300D ???K - Future DD 1989 300TE 285K - traded in '12 1984 300SD 186K - Sold in 08 1978 300SD 330K - Died in 05 |
#10
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My policy is to replace with factory parts if possible. They lasted 20 years, I expect the replacements will have a long life. The cats are one place where I'll give in and go aftermarket. MB is just too high for them. If the SL ever needs an exhaust, I may look into a stainless steel system. I'm getting older and have found I like my cars a bit quieter than when I was a kid. Of course the soft clatter under the hood is a different matter. That's just a sweet mechanical music.
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#11
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I discovered a small hole in the rear muffler of my otherwise sound exhaust system. I took a length of 6" wide aluminum flashing---2" longer than the circumference of the muffler and wrapped it around the hole (which I covered with a wad of fiberglass insulation) and then zip screwed it together: no leaks and it's quiet. I think the trick was to get the patch drawn super tight before screwing. I did that with several temporary lengths of nylon cord.
If this "repair" lasts more than a year or two, you can be sure I'll be back here to brag about it----but I expect that the interaction of hot steel and paper thin aluminum will end in failure long before that. Being a long time owner of many ancient Subarus---in a jurisdiction with not-to-stringent safety inspections--- I am a bit more tolerant of exhaust leaks than most people. I think of the Mercedes diesel as an extremely quiet car compared to ANY of my Subarus!
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1977 Mercedes 240D. 4-speed transmission. Windows, A/C, and sunroof: all manual. Medium Red. 204K miles. 1988 Subaru GL wagon. Dual range 5-speed 4X4. Daily driver w/ twin parts car. 1994 Subaru Loyale wagon. 5-speed 4x4 1966 International 3/4 ton 4X4 truck. Ooh yeah! 1952 Ferguson TO-35 farm tractor. 1984 Snapper rear engine riding mower. Just like Forest Gump. 1988 Nimble 20 sail boat --Older stuff is built better-- |
#12
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Like any other car, exhaust repair is frequently a tradeoff between time and money. Whichever resource is in shortest supply dictates how to fix it. Still, I hate to replace exhaust until I've got my money's worth. Recently, my exhaust separated where the 2 mufflers join into the pipe toward the resonator. I bought a 2-1/4" to 2" reducer (I think) which the OD fit PERFECTLY inside the short, rusted out end of the mufflers. Worked wonderfully.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#13
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At this point, more money will just mean more durability. With a turbo you could just run a straight pipe and be OK, anything over a cheap straight pipe will just be to increase durability or 'stock-ness'. You might research a cheap repair, and then expect to do a more serious replacement later, or go with a better system now. Don't worry too much about it, like people have said, with a turbo, the engine is louder than the exhaust anyway, so having a good muffler isn't critical.
peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#14
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You can get a complete new exhaust at Autozone "Bosel" that comes with a lifetime warranty with free replacement for around $200 you can't beat that.
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#15
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Quote:
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
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