Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI. - Page 13 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #**181** 09-11-2014, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Agreed, never needed one myself, and many valve adjustments done over the years.

That was not what I meant. People who have had stuck Nuts used to be advised to brace the Hex and up until about 2.5 Years ago no one had broken a Valve Guide and posted that; that is what happend.

Before I did My first Valve Adjustment I waited until I got a Used Hazet Set with the 3rd Wrench and I did have 2 Stuck lower Nuts and the 3rd Wrench took care of that.

Since 2008 I have done 3 Valv Adjustments and one of them because I changed the Valve Stem Seals and after the First I did not need the 3rd Wrench.

I did a Valve adjustment to day and I braced 2 of the Hexes but the nuts were barly tight so there was no danger.

Since the last Valve Adjustment My 3rd Wrench is missplaced along with the Valve Wrenches I made which I actually like better than the Heyco ones I used today.

I don't record My milage so I don't know the Miles since the last Valve Adjustment but I found Myself on the Freeway nearly everyday this Month and the Weather has been in the high 80s to low 90s out here and after a long hot run on the Freeway My Car Engine was shaking and I had also noticed a loss of acceleration.

So I did the Valve Adjusment (and they were tight) and changed the Fuel Filters (was on 5 Years and had about 3 Teaspoons of Water in it; it is a CAT Filter and is about quart sized so the Water was not close to getting into the Fuel Injection Pump).

Have not had a chance to drive it to see if it did any good.

denissca · #**182** 09-12-2014, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

It's hard to say. I HOPE you didn't break any valve guides but if you braced or attempted to you easily could have...

If i broke those valve guides would it not be obvious to me that i did that?

One thing i did not do right is to have a cam lob at exactly 1 o'clock position in many instances. I followed the manual from Kent Bergsma (mercedes source) who recommended to use starter (turn on ignition key for a short time) to move the shaft. This way is hard to have cam lobe aligned perfectly the way it should. So my suspicion is that my clearances are really much bigger than they should because of it. Does this make sense? Would the car behave this way on the much bigger clearances than spec?

leathermang · #**183** 09-12-2014, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by denissca

....... I followed the manual from Kent Bergsma (mercedes source) who recommended to use starter (turn on ignition key for

The accepted recommendation is to turn the engine by using the nut on the end of the crankshaft.
You need to have the cam in the proper position to set everything right.
Go back and do it right... then report the results...
at this point you are at that ' garbage in , garbage out ' idiom that used to be applied to computers...

Diesel911 · #**184** 09-12-2014, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by denissca

If i broke those valve guides would it not be obvious to me that i did that?

One thing i did not do right is to have a cam lob at exactly 1 o'clock position in many instances. I followed the manual from Kent Bergsma (mercedes source) who recommended to use starter (turn on ignition key for a short time) to move the shaft. This way is hard to have cam lobe aligned perfectly the way it should. So my suspicion is that my clearances are really much bigger than they should because of it. Does this make sense? Would the car behave this way on the much bigger clearances than spec?

Depending on where the Valve Guide brakes it allows Oil to get past the Valve Stem and into the Engine and that might show up as smoke.

You can hook up a remote Starter Switch to the Wire Terminal Block that I have been told is under the Battery Tray on your Year of SD.
I used the Remote Starter Switch when I did My last 2 Valve Adjustments but on My year and Model the Wire Terminal Block is easy to access as it is on the Fender Well.

Diesel911 · #**185** 09-12-2014, 11:26 PM

Here is a pic of part of the Mercedes Service Manual for My Year and Model.

denissca · #**186** 09-24-2014, 12:05 PM

Yesterday i worked on it again. After taking the cap off, i found that clearance were non existent for almost all of the valves. This explains the heavy smoke, loss of power and a crazy vibration.
This time i rotated the engine using power steering pump nut. Then set cam lobes in right position and did the nut adjustments close to the spec. After assembling things together, i started the engine. And... Success! Thank you, Jesus!

Maxbumpo · #**187** 02-27-2015, 11:42 AM

Question on Technique.

Reference: Doktor Bert's YouTube video of his 300SD:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFhaRefTRUM

In the comments section, posted by The10851Man:

"Wanted to share this with all of you regarding the correct way to adjust the 617 valves. When adjusting, rotate the valve spring retainer. As it rotates, you will notice the clearance will change. Adjust at the TIGHTEST point.

This is the #1 reason why 617's run like crap after most shops adjust the valves. Most techs just set the valves and when the valve rotates (as they do normally during operation) the clearances closes up. There is a certain amount of unavoidable runout in the valve train, even on brand new motors. By rotating the retainer (valve and retainer rotate together) you can find the "wide spot" and the "tight spot" in your valve clearance. "

Doktor Bert hasn't posted here in a bit.

Anyone care to comment on this?

vstech · #**188** 02-27-2015, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

Question on Technique.

Reference: Doktor Bert's YouTube video of his 300SD:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFhaRefTRUM

In the comments section, posted by The10851Man:

"Wanted to share this with all of you regarding the correct way to adjust the 617 valves. When adjusting, rotate the valve spring retainer. As it rotates, you will notice the clearance will change. Adjust at the TIGHTEST point.

This is the #1 reason why 617's run like crap after most shops adjust the valves. Most techs just set the valves and when the valve rotates (as they do normally during operation) the clearances closes up. There is a certain amount of unavoidable runout in the valve train, even on brand new motors. By rotating the retainer (valve and retainer rotate together) you can find the "wide spot" and the "tight spot" in your valve clearance. "

Doktor Bert hasn't posted here in a bit.

Anyone care to comment on this?

Keep in mind... if significant differences are found from rotating the valves the strong possibility of worn valve guides exist.

It certainly can solely be from tight clearance resulting in carbon... but the rotators are supposed to prevent it.

TomJ · #**189** 02-28-2015, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

Question on Technique.

Reference: Doktor Bert's YouTube video of his 300SD:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFhaRefTRUM

In the comments section, posted by The10851Man:

"Wanted to share this with all of you regarding the correct way to adjust the 617 valves. When adjusting, rotate the valve spring retainer. As it rotates, you will notice the clearance will change. Adjust at the TIGHTEST point.

This is the #1 reason why 617's run like crap after most shops adjust the valves. Most techs just set the valves and when the valve rotates (as they do normally during operation) the clearances closes up. There is a certain amount of unavoidable runout in the valve train, even on brand new motors. By rotating the retainer (valve and retainer rotate together) you can find the "wide spot" and the "tight spot" in your valve clearance. "

Doktor Bert hasn't posted here in a bit.

Anyone care to comment on this?

This can't be a serious suggestion on valve adjustment procedure? You sure it's not just a joke?

whunter · #**190** 03-22-2024, 08:52 PM

for new owners