|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
I just replaced the defroster pod yesterday in my '82 300td. After taking the old one apart (it's easier to remove if you dismantle it before trying to undo the bayonet mount, IME) I'd say that rebuilding it would be a pretty involved job. One of the diaphragms is installed (with a coil spring) between two hard plastic caps that are connected with a brass swivel that is pressed into each cap. You'd probably have to destroy the swivel to remove it, then find something of equal dimension to replace it. Then drill out the pieces of the old one, etc. etc. It's not just a matter of popping in a diaphragm or two.
The other W123 pods are a different story -- in fact, I think the one for the center vents is easier to rebuild in situ than it is to remove! By the way, I found the bayonet mount on the replacement pod I received had been installed backwards. I had to remove that piece and reinstall it correctly so the actuating arm was positioned the way it was supposed to be. Russ M |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
[QUOTE=eskimo]OK, just to be clear, we are talking about a vacuum actuator that's oriented horizontally, and is located directly behind the ductwork leading to the foot vents, yes? I'm thinking about the vents down low on the left and right side of the center column of the dash, with one vacuum actuator that uses a linkage to operate the flaps together (one on each side). If I'm using the wrong nomenclature here, then please, someone correct me.
Eskimo -- My experience is that it's the defroster pod that fails (I've replaced two on two cars), perhaps because it's generally under vacuum when the car is operating. It's the James Brown of the ACC system -- the hardest-working actuator in the climate control business. When it fails, the vent system defaults to defrost mode, so your footwell heat goes away. It's the big vertical pod in back of the ignition switch with two hoses connected to it. Russ M |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Rolled the temperature control up to a high temp. setting, had center vents close and foot vents open. Rolled it back down, had foot vents close and center vents open. It didn't seem to care that the engine was cold. By the way, I've experienced the blown defrost actuator thing, too. As others here have pointed out, it dumps loads of air up through the defrost openings, and not all that much anywhere else. |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
So I probably need to look further back, closer to the accelerator? Thanks!
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Yes, you will be looking to the right of the accelerator pedal, behind the lower middle section of the dash (again, I don't know the right word for it). For me, I found it convenient to remove both driver and passenger side underdash panels to gain access. A flashlight and a mirror helped, too. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Just curious, MonseurBon -- have you got a Mytivac? It's a pretty handy tool for sleuthing out vacuum leaks. If you have a Harbor Freight store in you area you could probably pick up a cheap knockoff version.
Russ |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
B - 1983 300SD |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
A suitable work light and inspection mirror might let you eyeball the situation back there to determine if something is broken or disconnected. |
Bookmarks |
|
|