I am jelous of how clean your engine is!

Anyhow Engine+Trans is the best way to go. I found out the hard way.

If you just disconnect the trans its much more simple instead of engine to trans.

Sounds like very good advice....Let me reinforce some of what engatword said----Don't roll the engine lift around until the engine is lowered to near the floor. It may not be immediately obvious, but when the engine is high that it makes a very heavy pendulum with a fairly long period of swing. If you move it with all that mass up high, it is possible to have it start to swing, almost imperceptibly..... If your next move happens to coincide with the swinging of the engine, the amount of swing is increased. It may start swinging just enough to pull the engine crane over and dump the whole load off to one side. If you're lucky, it will not hit anyone, and it will swing over and miss the fender, but the crash onto the floor is not pretty.

I thought the same thing when I looked at the pictures. Did you steam clean your engine?

This is good advice, if you can pressure wash or steam clean your engine, transmission and engine compartment before you start, you will make every part of the whole job a little easier. It adds up.

Also, organize the parts as you take them off. I can put every bolt back in the same hole it came out of. If you have any project management experience, employ some.

Someone else said take digital pictures as you go. I second that. Especially for routing wires and hoses, etc. Keep a couple to look at years later. Take pictures of the guys, the dog, the beers, the nosy neighbors, etc.

When you put it back together, don't tell yourself you will come back later. Do it right the first time.

Use zip-lok bags and a Sharpie to hold and identify parts, bolts etc..
Masking tape and Sharpie to identify wires and hoses and where they go.
No beer till the job is done (that's the hardest one).

That engine was cleaned with kerosene and elbow grease when I rebuilt it. I use old egg cartons to separate bolts and nuts taken off during the job. i write what it held on the top inside of the carton and number cartons as I go. That way everything is ordered. A little notebook helps too.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

A set of metric taps will be needed to do this correctly....
Each and every threaded hole should have the proper tap run into it and then be sprayed with something to clean it out.... I used PBBlaster... BrakeKleen.. etc... always have goggles on when doing these things....
This is because torque readings are based on the friction a bolt encounters as it enters the hole... and is only mildly coresponding the pull down effect on the item you are bolting up.... so you must have a Non burr hole and it be clean and lightly lubed to get close to what the engineers wanted the gaskets to be compressed to, the trans held on by , etc...
Same with the bolts... wire brush, clean, lightly lube....
This is a messy boring time consuming job.... and worth every effort you can muster to know that your torque readings are accurate when you get finished.
On cars this old and reliable...I use antisieze compound as the lube... if there is a next time to taking the item off you will really be pleased you thought ahead on this issue....

He's right about cleaning out the threads, although I admit I don't use a tap very often. I usually use a cleaned screw (not sterilized, but with grit/rust removed at least) and then I wire brush or otherwise clean the screw/bolt. However, I need to make a cautionary note about anti-sieze. I use it a lot, but you should be careful with certain assemblies and anti-sieze. This is because anti-sieze can be such a good lubricant that it greatly affects your measured torque value. Thus, you can overtighten with anti-sieze if not careful

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

IF USING A ROLLING ENGINE HOIST:
When you are lifting the engine out of the car deflate the front tires to get more clearance.
Have a buddy guide the shaft end of the tranny so that you can tilt it out of the way of the radiator support.

When the engine/tranny are clear of the car body the top of the engine will be about 5 feet off the ground and you will be swinging about 800# +/-

MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON A FLAT SMOOTH SURFACE AND HAVE HELP TO SUPPORT THE HOIST AS YOU ROLL IT BACK.
AS SOON AS THE ENGINE IS CLEAR OF THE FRONT BUMPER, LOWER THE BOOM SO THAT THE ENGINE AND TRANNY TRANSVERSE THE TWO LEGS OF THE HOIST, NOW THE WEIGHT IS RESTING AND NOT SWINGING....

I've pulled and installed one by myself but will get help next time...

Have fun!

roll the car, not the hoist with the engine way up in the air. My garage has a slight slope toward the doors, like most garages do. I could push back on the top of the front tire slightly and roll it back. Just make sure you don't hit the garage door opener with the vertical hood, if so equipped

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I will third this advice and add that it is a good idea to check the depths of the holes to see if they are clear. This is critical when you have a head or deck resurfaced, if the headbolt bottoms when you torque it, you blow the headgasket.

I read years ago that 90% of mechanical work is cleaning and my experience would confirm that.

This is not a piece of advice, but I am curious. Why do you have to replace your engine simply because it overheated? Normally, overheating does not cause catastrophic problems in the iron diesels.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

The reason I am replacing the engine is the mechanic I WAS working with told me it had to be replaced. I never bothered to check. I think he might be right, because it got hot enough to melt the Bosh sensor on the top of the engine right under the linkage for the throttle. The engine did not freeze up, I know that much.
Thanks,

bump, per recent associated thread

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.