Has anyone removed a front door panel from an 87 W124 300D? Specifically, what is the trick for removing the armrest portion of the door handle? The armrest seems to be held to the door with plastic connectors which I cannot access.
On the 81 to 85 W123 class this was easily done by removing Phillips screws, but here I can not find any seams or access points for the armrest on the 87 W124.
I am assuming that removing this armrest is the critical point before I can simply unsnap the door panel from the door.
I would like to do this as professional as possible. I am fixing my vandalized door lock and my power locking system.

You need to be careful here - the door panel is "hooked" onto the sheetmetal and is NOT attached with press-on clips. The panel is lifted upward after you remove the lock knob, the sail panel around the mirror, the C-shaped trim aroud the latch, the seat switch, and the interior pull handle. The panel can be a bit stubborn, so you can try lowering the window and using a large flat-blade screwdriver (wrap the tip in electrical tape) to pry underneath the top lip of the panel. Search the archives for removal instructions - one thing to note is that sometimes there's a tiny C-clip underneath the recline knob of the seat switch. This clip needs to be removed before the seat switch trim comes off.

Yup, Speedy is right! I did it on both front and rear doors and getting all the hooks to line up, the door lock pin, and upper clip, and then push everything in and down and all at the same time is frustrating!

It may take several attempts to be successful, especially getting the armrest to pop in. If this isn't in firm by both hooks, and maybe only holding by one hook, or none, and not realizing, you'll eventually damage the whole panel!

Be careful, be patiant and after maybe the third try, you'll get it right!

BB........

Door panel removal:

Pull off seat adjuster knobs, unscrew lock button, remove trim on latch. Remove the handle on the mirror lever by prying out hte little plastic latch, then pull the triangular trim back. Watch that you don't break the clip up top (it does, usually, anyway, just use so trim cement on re-installation).

Pry off the plastic around the seat adjuster and interior latch handle, then push latch handle "bucket forward (or back I can never remember, it's obvious) until it unhooks and then pry the latch rod up and out.

Pull the foam back and unscrew the 10 mm screw holding the armrest upper end on, then lift panel straight up to dis-engage the hooks. Lift panel up and out.

Watch for speaker wires, wires to the lamp on the bottom of the door, etc.

To re-install, place panel on door so that the hooks are clear of the slots, fish lock rod up and start the knob on it, then push panel up against door and then slide down while hoding it againstt the door. It will be obvious if any hooks don't engage.

Rear doors are similar except you mus remove the window switch and ash tray, then pry the plastic housing for the ashtry out from the top, it locks the door panel on.

Broken panel hooks can be repaired with JB-Weld. Do not use 5-min epoxy, it's not strong enough.

The arm rest is attached to the panel with "melted over" hollow plastic pins. If loose, use a sheet metal screw and washer to re-attached.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I am glad i cooled down and backed off and did not proceed. I love this car and its the nicest car I own, doubt i will ever own a car like this again

Well, I have to echo those feelings. I love my '87 300D turbo. Thanks to the Shopforum, I had read so much about the 603 engines and mainly gsxr's great pictures on how he modified his '87s (4 or 5 of them?) so I went looking for an '87 locally and found one!
There aren't many diesels that perform like the '87 and the newer cars have their own problems and are a product of Daimler Chrysler's cost reduction scheme. The W124 and 126 are probably the best Mercedes built (OK I know the aluminum heads an all, but my #14 head is still running strong at 260K, knock on wood!)
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 106441
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 295530
1983 300D 243280
1985 300TD 217300
1987 300D 258230

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

At least one door panel on both my W124's have been pried off, with resulting broken hooks. I really need to fix the right rear one on the 300D, it's getting wrecked by people pulling on the armrest!

New panel on the TE, broken hooks in the bottom of the door rattling around...

I really do like the door panel system on these cars, though -- very easy to R&R (and cheaper to build to boot), and if not abused, very sturdy.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I am sure someone has a nifty idea to fix it. I dont think even pvc solvent/glue would hold. My only other idea is to use fiberglass to fix it...

Use JB Weld, the slow set. Clean parts with solvent first, and you will have to make a jig to hold the hook in place overnight. It will stay on, though.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks a Lot!!