Make sure you read the directions on the back. That bottle is also a ctaine booster. To much may not be a good thing. 32oz to 50 gallons to do a cleaning. I don't think your car has a 50 or 100 gallon fuel tank. I ran some in mine and I did feel some change for the good.

__________________
1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles
Euro model in the USA
1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004)
New Factory Mint Green paint
Palomino int
1982 240D (Steak dinner for two)

I bought the Gumout brand since that was the only one advailable. It iwas the Large Vehicle Diesel Fuel Injector Cleaner. It doesn't say anything about being a cetane booster. I did put 2 cans in it and it does seem a little harder to start. I suppose I should drive the car even if it starts hard so I can use up the stuff and put in fresh fuel. You know the male mentality. If some is good, more is better.

Don't go too too overboard on the injector cleaner. It might not have the lubricity needed. IF anything use PowerService Diesel Kleen that cane be found at WalMart.

I'd start by replacing your fuel filter after topping off with fresh fuel with no additives. Replace the full flow filter and top it off with the PowerService Diesel Kleen, then screw it back on and try to start it.

A good diesel additive call PrimRose can be found at www.avlube.com. They are the only site to be carrying it so far. Very good for treating any water that may be in the tank and aiding in the rust issue.

__________________
#dieselFLEET
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'97 E300
'99 E300

The car did come with a full tank of gas and I drove about 150 miles so it is down to a little below 3/4 tank when I added the 2 bottles of injector cleaner. I suppose I could go down to the gas station and do a quick fill up so it would dilute it a little. I just assumed that the store ones are the watered down version of the professional. My gas cars that use Chevron Techron from Wal*Mart, they sold a professional version that is suppoesd to be much stronger. However, it does seem to be harder to start now so maybe I will run out more of the fuel and then top up or what does anyone suggest?

Don't dilute anything. Just run off that tank of fuel, then refill with fresh fuel and no additives. I would recommened doing as I mentioned previosuly.

Are you a DIY'er? There is an entire thread written on how to replace these glow plugs...

__________________
#dieselFLEET
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'97 E300
'99 E300

I just wanted to test the plugs before I replaced them. I did see the link on how to replace GPs and I can get help from Gilly but I was trying to see if there was a way to quickly test them.

If you have glowplugs that are really "F'd", you'll get a warning display in the cluster, check the owners manual on exactly the display.
I really dislike the "quicky" testing of glowplugs (resistance test) and it's one of those things you'll never change my mind about. Others have different opinions, that's fine. Need to do an amperage draw test. Period. Only valid test of a glowplug.
I'm not sure how long the plugs are supposed to last. Does anyone know a rough price on late-606 glowplugs? I know they're big honkers. Amyone have advice on a situation like this if it pays to toss 'em in?
I think you can replace all of the plugs EXCEPT #6 w/o removing the intake, but it's not too hard to pull the intake as I recall, I know there is a thread here about it. Plus if we are trying a new shutoff valve and lines, the labor would be about zilch. I've never heard of a 606 having a glowplug break off in the head, no reason it "couldn't", but not a common problem I am aware of.

Hee hee hee, NEWBIE ALERT! NEWBIE ALERT!!!

If the parts are too much for you to handle right now, we could definitely try this. I normally fill the main filter (called the full flow filter here) with fuel before installing, if this is a recommended fluid to fill the filter with (in other words it'll actually run on this stuff) then I'm for it. I've done this using ATF before on a recommendation and at least it didn't "hurt" anything, so we can try that and see if it behaves any differently. At the miles you are at now the filters are just "due", just a little over, but I guess you still don't know the service history, so we don't know, maybe it was done at 60K?
Andrew can you grab the bottles of stuff you added and check to see if you put in the correct amount? Just curious.
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

1 bottle treats 35 gals. I thought if I made it stronger, it would help but apparently not. I started it in the garage with the door close and it died out before it could start. I restarted it and it worked ok so I drove on. After my errand was done, I stopped by McDs today and had a sandwich. It took many many tries to get started. On the way home, I filled up 8 gals of #2 diesel and drove it home without stopping the engine.

I also cleaned all the Feed pump area with brake cleaner today I noticed that there was a smell of diesel and the EGR pipe had some fuel on it. Cleaned it off and took another run and there was fuel there again. I think I am going to need to change all the plastic lines for a start.

Dan, sounds like these are the parts I will need based on this post?

32 - A 021 997 75 48 Seal Ring
29 - A 000 078 44 49 Shut-off valve

Part numbers for this picture:
32 - A 605 070 14 32 Line from thermostat to prefilter
119 - A 606 070 05 32 Return line from i.p. to fuel filter
126 - A 017 997 22 48 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve
128 - N 007603 012102 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve on i.p.
95 - A 605 070 15 32 Line from fuel filter to shut-off valve
83 - A 606 070 04 32 Line from feed pump to fuel filter
56 - A 605 070 07 32 Line from prefilter to shut-off valve
74 - A 605 070 08 32 Line from feed pump to shut-off valve

95 - A 603 078 01 41 Bracket (Qty 7)
92 - A 601 078 03 86 Shim (Qty 7)
104 - A 601 078 26 41 Bracket (Qty 2)

A 606 141 01 80 Intake Manifold Gasket

My only issue with the parts is that most of them are not advailable so I am not sure how long it will take. Other than that, I am just itching to get this car running perfectly because it is the only workhorse I have.

I started it up and let it run while I cleaned everything off again with brake cleaner. In spite of my diziness after inhaling too much of the fumes, I saw that the hoses are dry and there is a drip every 30 seconds or so of diesel from the shutoff valve.

Sounds to me that the fuel shut off is allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank and she's having problem picking it up again. Does this car have a primer pump like the older models? Or maybe a fuel check valve is bad It may be worth a pump or two just to find out.

PS. I had a dirt track car years ago and we added octane booster to it. Directions we on pint to 20 gallons for a fully blown motor. Needless to say my partner put in the full pint to 10 gallons. The first heat race the car splintered the radiator hoses from boiling the coolant. The A main event three rods cam out the side of the block The next weekend when a new motor was installed and was looking for more octane booster and I figured out where the last can went The first motor hauled ass though

__________________
1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles
Euro model in the USA
1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004)
New Factory Mint Green paint
Palomino int
1982 240D (Steak dinner for two)

I think the first motor was just a fast piece of junk.
If you increase the octane, the burning is slowed down. If anything it'll run cooler. If the octane is lower, it detonates (explodes as opposed to a smooth burn) and causes knocking, overheating, engine damage, rods out the side, stuff like that, so don't blame the octane booster.
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

Well, the fixed the leak problem. You see, the last tech who did it before
it was sold just changed the shutoff valve. That wasn't going to fly because
the lines are now disturbed and leaked. They change one line, followed by
the second and the third and then they changed all the lines and the shutoff
valve and the O-ring. They changed the valve and put it as a parts warranty
so nobody is shorted although it was their fault for not changing the O-ring
and the hoses that were now leaking. I also talked them into changing the
fuel filter and pre-filter.

Now, I need to fix the head bolster for the driver side because it will not work properly. If I push it upwards manually, it works when I use the switch. Otherwise it stays put. Of course, at the shop it worked perfectly.

Kudos to the shop for their work

Headrest motor is now fixed. The printed circuit board was loose and would not work well. New motor and all is well