Ok, I went the cheaper route and had my leaking oil cooler lines refitted at a hydrolic hose shop, both done for $58.00 took me 8 plus hours to get them out and in but hey they are done. Well I didn't catch the fact that the new hoses rubbed up against the fan belt and yes all of my work was needing to be done again since after driving my now oil leak free car for 15 minutes the oil pressure was gone along with 6-7 quarts of Fresh Chevron Delo, so I had a real mechanic do the lower oil cooler line that the fan belt sawed threw. Now I go to pic up the car and it has a loud knocking noise and the mechanics think that it is a valve or a bearing sticking or going bad? Loud knocking that accilerates with the engine acceleration. They say it was because of the 2-3 minutes the car was operating with the leaking spewing oil everywhere oil coolant line. The knock seems to be coming from the #4 piston top end, also noted is that I had the glow plugs changed out and the #4 glow plug would not come out and actually the out half broke leaving the inside stuck. I am not sure if a piece of it is causing the knocking noise or if they are seperate items all together. HELP!

One thing you could do is to remove the valve cover and start it up. If there is a sticking valve you should be able to see clearly if this is the case, if not, maybe an injector nailing.

What brought your attention to the fact that you lost oil?

Was your engine sounding different and then you looked at your oil pressure guage to see it register zero, then pulled over to shut it down? If so, you may have run several minutes without noticing lost oil pressure and that could be a bad thing. However, if you never lost oil pressure, you may be in luck!

One other note, if any part of the #4 glow plug broke loose inside the precombustion chamber, you will hear what you describe too!

Just my opinion.... BB

I was turning a corner back into my court and the powersteering slipped the gauges at that time were down but the motor didn't sound any different, I shut it down immidiately but the total drive time was around 15min. I am unsure of how long it was spewing oil out of the cut line but there was a big oil mess all over the engine. How bad would it be if it is the broken glow plug? Is that cheaper than a rod or bearing? And if so should I not drive it with that if it is the glow plug? I am cross posting, I originally put the message in the diseal discussion forum also.

You need to get the prechamber out (or at least get the bits of glowplug out) and verify that you do not have metal chunks bouncing around in the cylinder -- you will end up with a bent rod and piston damage.

A broken off glow plug will cause a severe injector knock, clearly localized in the pre-chamber area.

A loud knock below the head, definitely in the upper block, NOT the head and NOT the bottom, is a bad wrist pin bushing.

If you ran it any length of time without oil pressure, the main bearings would knock -- a very deep, definite clank, not a snap or clack noise. Probably can be rebuilt if that is the case, unless you spun a main. Main or crankpin bearing knock is definitely in the lower block, deep sound.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I read your other post and would have to agree with all that have posted a response.

You only need to loose oil pressure for a few seconds before it begins to do irreparable damage to rod bearings, wrist pins, then main bearings, and if let to run several minutes longer, the engine will eventually seize!

Sorry to hear this, but hope things work out for you! BB

Can anyone compare a leak down test to a old fashioned compression Test? I am looking at buying a salvage moter with a leak down test of 10-14% meaning 86-90% engine efficiencey, would that translate into a compression reading of 360?

No, it tells you that 14% of the compression leaks down in a given amount of time, and you should also get information on where it's leaking off -- rings or valves, and if valves, which one.

Leakdown is performed by pressurizing the cylinder at TDC with compressed air, not usually by cranking engine (because it would be too low -- most leak badly at low speed, the rings don't seal).

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!