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-   -   E300TD glow plug stuck/broken (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/109101-e300td-glow-plug-stuck-broken.html)

sokoloff 11-29-2004 01:34 PM

E300TD glow plug stuck/broken
 
It was about a month ago that my glow plug saga started and now that it is nearing an end, I wanted to update you, especially those with a 210 chassis diesel.

My glow plug light and check engine lights came on on my instrument cluster. Had the code read and it indicated a bad glow plug(s). Turned out that #2 plug was bad. In order to replace any plug but possibly #1, the manifold has to come off. The general feeling is that while the manifold is off, you may as well replace them all to avoid having to go through the repair again anytime soon. So that was my plan.

Many thanks to Lightman and Rick from MercedesShop.com who did a great write up about glow plug replacement. See it at http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/88574-finally-step-step-glowplug-change-98-99-e300-post580948.html The removal of the manifold is not that big of a deal, so I wouldn't hesitate to tackle that again.

Plugs 2 - 6 came out with no major headaches. #1 would not budge. Looking closely at #1, I noticed that there were a lot more threads showing sticking out of the head than the others. It turns out that #1 plug was replaced by the dealer about 18 months ago. It was done without removing the head. It is my theory that it was a little hard to reach and see and it wasn't screwed in all the way and thus did not seal, allowing carbon to enter and seal that sucker up solidly in the prechamber.

So I had to either leave it alone or get it out. I chose to try to remove it since at sometime someone, most likely me would have to do it anyway. How hard could it be I figured? It was in so tightly that my socket eventually rounded off the hex head. So then I went to a Snap-on socket that grabs the flats instead of the corners. Same thing - it wouldn't grab it either and just clicked around the glow plug. Next came a twist socket that grabs the hex head and digs into it while applying force. It did its job so well that it tore off the tip of the glow plug just above the threads. So now where do I go? After reading many posts on many different lists, I found out that this was not a terribly unusual occurrence and that everyone, but one person had to have the head removed to the tune of about $2600 to get this thing fixed. That one person was Alan McReynolds who was able to get his broken off plug out by drilling and tapping and pulling. BTW Mercedes has come up with a new procedure, P-B-8.20/134, and a tool, p/n 611 589 00 99 00, for dealing with this situation. I thought that maybe I'd go that route and save the expense of having to remove the head. Well, it turns out that the tool/kit lists for $1300 at Mercedes to do this job. I'm not sure exactly what the procedure is, but it wouldn't be all that much cheaper than removing the head once all is said and done.

So with Alan's guidance, I tired to do it myself. Actually, not all of it myself. After fooling with it for almost a month,my son came to visit over Thanksgiving and took it as a personal challenge to fix this. Did all of the following - drilled out the center heating element as deep as I could without drilling all the way through the end of the plug - used a drill bit a few 64ths smaller than what was required for the M8 tap. Drilled out the glow plug's threads in an attempt to free them up from the head - the shaft of the glow plug measures about 0.41 inches and a 25/64ths is just a hair under that. Tapped the inside of the glow plug shaft with first an M8 and then a 3/8th's tap. Tried threading a bolt into the glow plug's fresh threads and pulling it out. Took a blue wrench and freeze spray to the head and the glow plug. Nothing would budge it. We were at the point where we were about ready to give up and go the head removal route. My son said that as a last resort, let's try to drill the glow plug shaft out a little bigger in steps and see if that does anything. He took the first drill bit to it and in about five seconds he had the remnants of the glow plug in his hand. You cannot imagine how happy I was to see that. The next hurdle was to see if there were any threads left on the head to allow the new glow plug to screw in. We had done some serious drilling in the area of those plugs and had come very close, too close we suspected, to damaging them. Well, we tapped the hole (it's an M12 x 1.25)in the head, screwed the glow plug in and it torqued down just fine. BTW, I bought a reamer from Baum Tools, www.baumtools.com, for this job and used it to ream out the glow plug holes. #1 definitely had more carbon built up in it that any of the others.

So everything is back together now and the car runs fine and the warning lights are out. I'm not completely done with the job, however. I had to remove the fuel preheater that is immersed in coolant and am waiting for a new gasket for that. When that comes in, I'll remove the manifold again , check for fuel leaks and make sure everything looks okay before installing the new manifold gasket and buttoning it all up and not have to touch it for a long time I hope.

BTW, total cost of the job was probably not much more than $300. That includes six glow plugs at $20 each and the reamer for $54. The rest of the costs were for various taps that weren't in my set and other miscellaneous bits and pieces.

If it happens again, I think I would proceed a lot more quickly to the drilling it out stage,

I can't thank Alan and my son enough for their guidance and help. Same goes to Lightman and Rick. It is really great when fellow Mercedes owners share their wealth of knowledge and their experiences and insight.

Len

'99 E300TD 71,500 miles

Jim H 11-29-2004 03:45 PM

Congratulations, you've earned the DIY Persistence Pays Off award. :sun_smile

I got lucky on my SDL OM603, plug #4 and #6 came right out, no teasing. I ran the reamer and found almost no carbon build up. A little anti-sieze and the new plug is in.

It's great to read about DIY success here, I'm hoping that's what M-B wants for their autombiles.

Make me want to keep wrenching on my SDL a bit longer. Now, where did I put that list...

Best Regards,
Jim

sokoloff 11-29-2004 04:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks Jim. You just cannot believe how good I felt when that thing finally came out. :)

I don't think any diesels besides the 606 engine have this type of a glow plug problem. Never had a problem on my 240D. Actually this car has turned out to be much easier for DIY work than I ever anticipated.

See below for what the glow plug looked like when it came out.

Len

aklim 12-23-2004 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff
BTW Mercedes has come up with a new procedure, P-B-8.20/134, and a tool, p/n 611 589 00 99 00, for dealing with this situation.

I checked with the local MB shop and they have not come up with the procedure or the tool based on those numbers. Can anyone verify it? TIA

aklim 12-23-2004 01:08 PM

I found it.

BTW Mercedes has come up with a new procedure, P-B-58.20/134, and a tool, p/n 611 589 00 99 00, for dealing with this situation

Rick Miley 12-23-2004 02:59 PM

So are you going to have to buy the tool? Or is it available to borrow or rent?

aklim 12-23-2004 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Miley
So are you going to have to buy the tool? Or is it available to borrow or rent?

The shop doesn't have the tool or the need for it. In the last 15 years, they have only had 1 or 2 other cases like mine and the usual cure for it is to R&R the head. I will have someone from that shop take a look and see if they can fix it without doing an R&R.

aklim 12-27-2004 02:36 PM

Question about the tap. I see that the GP fits into a bolt that is M12 X 1.25 and so I got that tap. Now I tried seeing if it would fit into another GP hole but it seems too big and I didn't want to force it. Shouldn't it have slipped right in? I was going to use it to clean the threads of the other holes but don't want to make them bigger than I have to,.

sokoloff 12-27-2004 03:11 PM

M12 x 1.25 is correct. It should go in all the holes. Might need to give it some help if there is a little corrosion or maybe a nicked thread. MIght want to add a dab of tapping oil to it first. Make sure you are starting it straight.

Len

Jimmy Joe 12-27-2004 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff
Looking closely at #1, I noticed that there were a lot more threads showing sticking out of the head than the others. It turns out that #1 plug was replaced by the dealer about 18 months ago. It was done without removing the head. It is my theory that it was a little hard to reach and see and it wasn't screwed in all the way and thus did not seal, allowing carbon to enter and seal that sucker up solidly in the prechamber.

If a dealer did this, wouldn't one theoretically be able to take the car back there and demand satisfaction?
BTW, congrats on your success, and thanks for posting all the info.

sokoloff 12-27-2004 05:44 PM

Dealer guarantee is for one year parts and labor. In my case it was about 20 months and I didn't think it was worth pushing the issue.

Len

aklim 12-27-2004 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff
Dealer guarantee is for one year parts and labor. In my case it was about 20 months and I didn't think it was worth pushing the issue.

Len

I would think that if THEY screwed up 20 months ago by not going deep enough into the hole, they should pay for the fix. After all, do I have to inspect every inch of what you do for me?

sokoloff 12-27-2004 08:14 PM

I would say that, yes, I do have to inspect every little thing that they do. That's why I try to do everything myself. It's a hassle to take it to the dealer because it ties the car up for two days usually and when it comes back, there is either something else wrong or it has to go back again because something isn'tright. And once the glow plug broke off, it was too late to raise hell with them. Even before it broke off, I think they would have had too much wiggle/weasel room. Just wasn't worth it, but I didn't think ti would take me as long to fix it either. It was a cheap fix though. They might even have tried to nick me for the $2600 head removal job. All in all, I'm glad I did it the way I did. No one to blame but me the next time either. :)

Len

sokoloff 12-27-2004 08:32 PM

So Aklim, have you made any progress on your broken off glow plug?

Len

Jimmy Joe 12-27-2004 08:41 PM

That does make good sense. How could you know what you were getting into till it was too late.

That stuff about the dealer bothers me, though.
I would expect them to do top-notch work for the prices they charge. If they repeatedly screwed up, seems it would be time to write a letter to the BAR.
Of course, who the heck am I to talk. I never let them work on my car. Can't afford it, just a fantasy. One which is less attractive reading about hassles with them...

aklim 12-27-2004 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff
So Aklim, have you made any progress on your broken off glow plug?

Len

Not as yet. Having an MB Tech try drill it out. Goes beyond my skill level at this point.

sokoloff 12-27-2004 09:13 PM

Well, to their credit, I have not not had any really bad experiences with them. We've had a couple of items we didn't quite see eye to eye on, but overall I'd give them passing grades. It's more of an inconvenience thing and a cost thing and a feeling on my part that I will give the car more loving care. :) I took the car to them a few times when it was under warranty, but other than that, I'd rather do it myself.

Len

sokoloff 12-27-2004 09:18 PM

Aklim - kep us posted as to your success/failures/costs. etc. with the job. Good data points for future reference. I know what works on glos plug #1. Your results will tell me how to do #3. :)

Len

aklim 12-27-2004 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff
Aklim - kep us posted as to your success/failures/costs. etc. with the job. Good data points for future reference. I know what works on glos plug #1. Your results will tell me how to do #3. :)

Len

Well. So far we have drilled it but it won't work. Guess we are going for a head job. Used the right bit and all but it is still stuck. Turned engine over several times but no joy.

One big failure and no success. Anyways, the cost is not going to be comparable because I am getting a tech to do it on the side.

sokoloff 12-28-2004 10:09 AM

That's too bad. Have you gone up to a 3/8ths or even a 25/64ths? A 13/32nds might be just a hair too much. All the threads of the glow plug are removed and the center heating element has been drilled out? Man, I really hate to see you have to go the head removal route if that glow plug can be accessed with a drill.

Again, good luck. We're thinking of you and hoping for the best.

Len

aklim 12-28-2004 10:23 AM

gone thru all those bits and still no luck. Will have to have the head removed. On the plus side, we can clean out the soot that holds the GPs in. Maybe next year I will have to ream it out to make sure it stays clean again.

aklim 12-30-2004 07:32 PM

Just had a Menage e Trois on my 210. 2 MB techs on 1 car. Gilly and another MB tech who will remain anonymous. They got the GP out. However, it is not sealing well. I suspect we will have to retap the hole since the threads are FUBAR. Can't get the M12 X 1.25 to start on it. Don't know why. I measured the tap and it was 16 thousands more than the GP. Also the drill was a little slanted and took some head material off. I suppose it would be ok since the threads are what seals the GP to the head. I will look into the MB kit since it might have some stuff I need out of it.

BTW, If anyone has a GP issue, have Gilly look at it. Gilly did my fix or at least had a large part of fixing it.

Bottom line? Light at the end of the tunnel but not out of the woods yet.

aklim 12-30-2004 07:35 PM

Talked to someone at another MB shop and they think that they have parts of the kit. They will try get all the parts together and then see how to retap my head. Funny thing is that the kit lists some inserts that will go into the head to replace the threads that you might drill off. These inserts list as M10 X 1. WTF? The GP is M12 X 1.25. Maybe they printed somethign wrong? We will see.

aklim 12-30-2004 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mespe
An M 12 x 1.25 bolt fits in an M10 x 1 thread!!! :eek: :D :D :D

Those were the inserts that came in the kit. Don't look at me. I only repeat what I was told.

aklim 01-02-2005 02:07 PM

Oh well. The inserts were M10 X 1.0 not M12 X 1.25. The WIS cannot be found and nothing in the kit seems to work for my case. I'm tired of screwing around with it. Headjob is next and the machine shop can deal with it. We are just prolonging the inevitable anyways.

sokoloff 01-02-2005 06:55 PM

Maybe I'm missing something here, but you got the glow plug out right? Now you only need to repair the threads on the head? If that's the case, then the head doesn't have to come off. Buy the correct size Timesert and a mechanic ought to be able to install it with the head in place if you don't want to do it. Ought to cost you maybe a hundred bucks. Beats the hell out of a $2500 head job.

Len

aklim 01-02-2005 07:00 PM

We did find the area in the head we drilled where we weren't supposed to. I was going to have it taken out in my garage to save the shop cost of taking it out. Then have the machine shop weld some material back to the head and drill it. I will probably be looking at 12 hrs of labor which is about $300 to R&R the head and then the cost of the machine work to weld more material back so it seals right.

We took the GP out but if you look down the hole, you can see one deep hole where the GP tip goes thru and at 4 o'clock, where we drilled the GP out at the wrong angle. That is what I am going to have it taken out and fixed. The timesert will fix the threads but something needs to be done about the missing material.

sokoloff 01-02-2005 07:27 PM

Okay, got it now maybe. So the area that needs to be repaired is where the tip of the glow plug goes through the prechanber? If that's the case, will just a new prechamber fix it? That would also save you from having to remove the head, but you would need to buy/borrow the prechamber removal tools. I've never had a prechamber or head for that matter out on one of these engines, so I'm not positive what I suggest will work?

Len

aklim 01-02-2005 10:15 PM

This is the head material that was drilled up so no amount of prechamber work will fix it.

sokoloff 01-03-2005 08:27 AM

Sorry to hear that. So the additional head material needs to be added at the tip end of the glow plug and not at the threads correct? If I'm not being too much of a PIA, could you please tell me how that happened? I assume that you drilled a little too far or possibly at a bad angle or maybe both. You mentioned the damage being at 4 o'clock. Did you go all the way through the head at that point so that the glow plug won't seal? I'm just trying to gather some info so that the next time I have to do, I'll have some background info. How big of a piece(s) did your glow plug come out as?

Thanks. Good luck with it and keep us posted on the outcome. I understand your frustration. I went through the same thing. My car was like that for about six weeks while I fiddled with it and debated what I should do next.

Len

Hatterasguy 01-03-2005 03:00 PM

606's can be a pita when it comes to glow plugs. I was helping my freind change his last week and only 1 came out! :eek: His is a 98 E300D with 150k on original plugs. We just left the other 5 in their, this summer the head comes off. But after seeing how simple of a job taking the manifold off is I would just pull the glow plugs and ream the holes every year. Simple job and much cheaper than pulling the head every few years.

aklim 01-03-2005 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff
Sorry to hear that. So the additional head material needs to be added at the tip end of the glow plug and not at the threads correct? If I'm not being too much of a PIA, could you please tell me how that happened? I assume that you drilled a little too far or possibly at a bad angle or maybe both. You mentioned the damage being at 4 o'clock. Did you go all the way through the head at that point so that the glow plug won't seal? I'm just trying to gather some info so that the next time I have to do, I'll have some background info. How big of a piece(s) did your glow plug come out as?

Thanks. Good luck with it and keep us posted on the outcome. I understand your frustration. I went through the same thing. My car was like that for about six weeks while I fiddled with it and debated what I should do next.

Len

Yes. However because of the nature of the hole (too tight) you cannot get at that area to weld material to it. Since we drilled to the point of the bevel, it wasn't sealing when we got the plug screwed in. The machine shop showed me the other holes. Between the bevel and the thread area, there was little or no carbon. Therefore, the conclusion was that it was the bevel that sealed the plug and the threads were to push the bevel of the plug against the bevel in the head. On a side note, another machine shop that had to take a broken off GP out, did so by drilling the prechamber out and then drilling the threads out of the GP and pushing it out.

From what I see, I am not sure that it is the carbon that was holdng my GP in. It was the steel on aluminum that welded itself together. The machinist advised me to put anti-sieze on the threads and the body of the GP but not the tip to prevent this mess occuring in the future.

The GP came out finally with one part having some thread. If you can imagine drawing a line from the middle of the threads on one side to the bevel on the oppisite side, that is what mine came out as.

In retrospect, I should have not drilled. You see, if I hit the angle right, it would be great. If not, you are screwed because you will be hitting the head. All the time we thought we were on target because the shavings coming out were largely magnetic so we thought we were all right. At a machine shop they would have the head on a bench and a drill set at the right angle and drilled.

aklim 01-03-2005 05:57 PM

Returned from the machine shop a little happier. The machinist was gone but the shop foreman said he got it to seat a little deeper by making another bevel. Tomorrow they will helicore the head. The bevel is all important because that is what will seal the plug into the head while all the threads do is push the plug against the head. Our previous drillings were skewed and so they cut the bevel which made sealing impossible. Had we attempted to seal it with the threads only, I am not sure that would work well.

michakaveli 01-03-2005 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim
From what I see, I am not sure that it is the carbon that was holdng my GP in. It was the steel on aluminum that welded itself together. The machinist advised me to put anti-sieze on the threads and the body of the GP but not the tip to prevent this mess occuring in the future.

Exactly.... So if you have a non-turbo OM606 there shouldn't be any problems since the entire engine, head and block are iron. Add some antiseize to the equation and one should not have any problems.

aklim 01-03-2005 07:39 PM

Since the bevel seals the cylinder, there should be no issue even if the entire GP was coated with antisieze. When I took out the GPs, #1, 3 & 4 were stuck. The others came out easy. #1 and 3 came out after spraying lots of PB Blaster and when they did, the squeaked like there was no tomorrow. Taking out the head and looking down the injector area, I don't really see that much carbon in the prechambers.

JimSmith 01-03-2005 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim
Yes. However because of the nature of the hole (too tight) you cannot get at that area to weld material to it. Since we drilled to the point of the bevel, it wasn't sealing when we got the plug screwed in. The machine shop showed me the other holes. Between the bevel and the thread area, there was little or no carbon. Therefore, the conclusion was that it was the bevel that sealed the plug and the threads were to push the bevel of the plug against the bevel in the head. On a side note, another machine shop that had to take a broken off GP out, did so by drilling the prechamber out and then drilling the threads out of the GP and pushing it out.

From what I see, I am not sure that it is the carbon that was holdng my GP in. It was the steel on aluminum that welded itself together. The machinist advised me to put anti-sieze on the threads and the body of the GP but not the tip to prevent this mess occuring in the future.

The GP came out finally with one part having some thread. If you can imagine drawing a line from the middle of the threads on one side to the bevel on the oppisite side, that is what mine came out as.

In retrospect, I should have not drilled. You see, if I hit the angle right, it would be great. If not, you are screwed because you will be hitting the head. All the time we thought we were on target because the shavings coming out were largely magnetic so we thought we were all right. At a machine shop they would have the head on a bench and a drill set at the right angle and drilled.

I think the tool MB made for this operation probably allows you to drill confidently using a fixture with the head in place. I cannot imagine being able to drill this myself without a fixture.

Once the head is off the engine and out of the car, why would anyone drill out the prechamber? Seems like an awful lot of precision machining. Is the prechamber in this head something that cannot be pulled out?

Thanks for keeping us all posted on this item. Jim

aklim 01-03-2005 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimSmith
I think the tool MB made for this operation probably allows you to drill confidently using a fixture with the head in place. I cannot imagine being able to drill this myself without a fixture.

Once the head is off the engine and out of the car, why would anyone drill out the prechamber? Seems like an awful lot of precision machining. Is the prechamber in this head something that cannot be pulled out?

Thanks for keeping us all posted on this item. Jim

There were a few tools and inserts. However, none of the tools would allow you to drill at an angle like a machine shop drill. They were drills of different sizes and drill stops so you don't go too far. nothing to do with the angle of the drill entering. You could still drill at the wrong angle. Besides the inserts were M10 X 1.0 while the threads of the GP were M12 X 1.25. I don't know if it would have worked but the inserts that were supposed to be the threads for the GP was so small that the body of the GP would slide into the insert but there was no way in hell the insert would thread into the GP threads.

You cannot pull out the prechamber with the GP in the head, can you? They drilled a hole in the prechamber from the bottom so they could pry out the GP after drilling out most of the threads holding it in. Just repeating what they said.

RunningTooHot 01-04-2005 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michakaveli
Exactly.... So if you have a non-turbo OM606 there shouldn't be any problems since the entire engine, head and block are iron. Add some antiseize to the equation and one should not have any problems.

NO! Non-turbo 606's have aluminum heads like all other 606's. Either that, or Mercedes has developed an amazing new steel alloy that looks like aluminum, weighs as much as aluminum, and has the same thermal characteristics as aluminum. You never know where all those R&D dollars (oops, Euros) go. ;)

aklim 01-04-2005 01:55 AM

Seeing as we are talking about German Cars, maybe we should change these GP threads to Mein GP Kampf. My GP Struggle.

hughet 01-04-2005 12:14 PM

Steel and aluminum
 
Some metals do not get along too well. That is why you use di-electric couplings when you attach a steel water heater to copper pipes.
Has anybody ever tried dripping vinegar on the glow plugs around the threads prior to removal?
I know it sounds crazy but I ran into a similar situation 20 years ago when I was rebuilding the front suspension on my 66 E-Type Jaguar. On the Jag, the lower control arms are attached to aluminum blocks with 3/8 inch bolts. The bolts were about 4 inches long and went through the blocks. I unscrewed the nuts but couldn't budge the bolts (even with a pretty big cheater bar). There were rubber bushings in there so I couldn't heat it up without setting it on fire.
I was always working on the car (Jaguars are like English motorcycles because you have to work on them one hour for every hour you drive them) and every job was a challenge. I had learned to stop by the local independent Jaguar garage and get advice each time I got into a jamb. When I asked how to get the bolts out of the mounting blocks I found out that the "secret" was to drip vinegar on the bolt every day for about a week. The vinegar breaks the bond between the bolt and the aluminum allowing you to get it out. The most important advice they had for me was to avoid putting any kind of penetrating oil on it because the oil keeps the vinegar from penetrating and breaking the bond. "If you do that you'll never get it out" they said.
After a few days of vinegar dripping, the bolts came out.
I am wondering if that would apply to the glow plug problem that a lot of folks are having and if anyone has tried it.
(I posted this to a similar thread on the MBCA forum.)

aklim 01-04-2005 12:50 PM

Since I didn't see much carbon holding the plug in place and the other 2 stuck ones came out with a lot of squeaking and the machinist report, it makes me believe my issue was the stuck threads. Further to that, the machinist said to coat the entire GP with the exception of the tip with anti-sieze because if the carbon does come past the bevel, it could clog up the threads and the space between the GP and the head past the threads. Can't hurt, can it?

Also, if I had taken out the head, firtst thing, it would have cost me $50 to remove the GP. Instead, I have to pay about $300 to make it work again. If I have this same problem, I will take it to a machine shop. no more drilling for me. It was a good idea but it hinged on one critical fact. You have to get the angle just right or it will not work.

DR.DIESEL 01-04-2005 10:51 PM

Stuck
 
Howdy folks,
This is the nitty gritty on what is included in the MB repair kit.

ENGINES 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 606, 611, 612, 613, 628, 646
REPAIR KIT FOR GLOW PLUG THREADS IN CYLINDER HEAD
A repair kit for damaged glow plug threads and/or broken off glow plugs in the cylinder head has been
developed. This repair kit allows for the drilling-out of the glow plug bore and the installation of threaded
inserts. As a result, the replacement of the cylinder head due to broken glow plugs (as an example) is no longer required.
The repair kit can be ordered as a Special Tool: 611 589 00 99 00.
In addition, the wear and tear components of the kit can be individually ordered as needed, along with
additional replacement threaded inserts.

Special Tool Glow Plug Repair Kit (complete kit) 611 589 00 99 00

The following replacement (wear and tear) items can be individually ordered:
Drill Bit, 8mm 611 589 00 99 03
Stop, 8mm Drill (used with 611 589 00 99 03) 611 589 00 99 04
Drill Bit, 5mm 611 589 00 99 07
Stop, 5mm Drill (used with 611 589 00 99 07) 611 589 00 99 08
Tap, M6 611 589 00 99 10
Stop, M6 Tap 611 589 00 99 11
Impact Adapter (M6 - M12) 611 589 00 99 13
Drill Bit, 3.5mm 611 589 00 99 15
Stop, 3.5mm Drill (used with 611 589 00 99 15) 611 589 00 99 16
Tap, M4 611 589 00 99 18
Stop, M4 Tap (used with 611 589 00 99 18) 611 589 00 99 19
Impact Adapter (M4 M12) 611 589 00 99 21
Thread Cutter 611 589 00 99 22
Thread Awl 611 589 00 99 23
Thread Tap 611 589 00 99 24
Inserts, M10 (M10 x 1); (10 pcs.) 611 589 00 99 25
Wire Brush 611 589 00 99 27

The WIS document number for the detailed repair directions is
AR15.20-P-4112A for CDI engines.
So go grease up the palms of your local dealer's service manager or shop foreman, and thay can print these for you.

The glow plugs I have had to drill out or pull heads for have usually:
1. Melted, drooping into prechamber. Due to glow relay / afterglow failure.
2. Carbon, builds up around tip. Acts like cement. Most common.
3. Electrolosis. Happens with 606/611/648 glow plugs for some reason.

If your 210 diesel eats glow plugs, please make sure the afterglow feature
isn't sticking on. Check for 12v at glow plugs. Start car cold(<20 deg.)
Max on time for glow plugs after starting is 180 seconds. 12v should go away at 180sec or less. If not, like 5-10 minutes. You have failure of relay.

There is a tap/slide hammer adaptor for slide hammering out stuck plugs.
however, if the plug is melted into the pre-chamber. The head will need to
be removed so the center of the prechamber can be drilled out to access the mangled glow plug and cut/drill/blast out of head so the prechamber can be removed and head checked for damage.
Hope this helps a little.

Dr.Diesel

aklim 01-04-2005 11:19 PM

How does the insert work? It is M10 X 1.0 while the GP is M12 X 1.25?

DR.DIESEL 01-05-2005 12:01 AM

The insert is for the smaller CDI 611-648 diesels which have 10x1 thread
plugs. When using this kit, I have just carefully drilled out the plug and cleaned up the m12x1.25 threads in the head to reuse. I have yet had to use a m12x1.25 heli-coil. Knock on wood.
The glow plug has always come out when the 8mm drill bit gets a bite on the
broken heater plug stuck in the prechamber. I have had lots of help from a penetrating lube called PB Blaster.
I am not aware of a factory insert for the 12x1.25 glow plugs, but I will call
my service tool engineering rep tomorrow for some answers.
Sorry to hear about your epic struggle.
These heads come off very fast. I had the head off this 99 turbo in less
than 2 hours. So if I feel that things may go south for me with driling.
I just pull the head. Better than a broken Cobalt bit stuck in the head.
Dr.D

aklim 01-07-2005 09:57 PM

Head is on the car and it starts. Thankfully I didn't need a new head as they are $1700 bare. Had to prime the hell out of the system. Finally it caught but the #5 cylinder would not work. After it ran, we let it idle and it seemed better. Looks like there was plenty of air in the fuel lines. All seems well. Will clean up garage and go for a good drive tomorrow and see what happens.

W140 S600 01-18-2005 02:28 PM

sorry to hear of the problems guys...unfortunatly i am in it with you. I was attempting to pull the glowplugs out this winter, but all but one were stuck. On one gp, the hex head snapped off and is now spinning freely around the gp. Luckly the thread and element were unaffected and is still securely in the head. I am going to have to pull the head in the near future and i'm looking for any tips into the process of getting it off.

sokoloff 01-18-2005 08:13 PM

Well, I'm the one who started this thread and went through this agony. If/when it happens to me again, I'm going right for the drill first thing and go at it. Maybe I was just lucky this time, but I think that a glow plug will eventually come out without having to remove the head. See the first message in this thread for what I tried and what didn't work and then finally what the drilling was able to do.

Len

W140 S600 01-19-2005 11:58 AM

my only concern is about the metal shavings when drilling. It is impossible to prevent everything from falling into the chambers. Also, you often do not have the best position to really be comfortble to drill them out when the head is on the car. Even though it is much more work, I'd rather pull the head and play it safe. Besides, I can replace the valve seals while the head is off, and really clean it out good. There was quite a bit of sludge in there after 150k miles.

jgalindo 01-25-2005 01:03 PM

ckengine
 
hay guys finally had to replace 4 ,it was getting hard to start the two left working had some buld buldup on threds.however,at 2000 miles on bad plugs they looked like new!!shiney and all!!.may help to run for a few miles w/o voltage to plugs. 1999 e300 w 65k mi.

Bill.Brune 02-04-2005 12:59 AM

Did I Ruin the Head ?
 
606.910 in a '95 E300D. #6 glow plug did the usual break off. 1-5 came out without problem. Took off the oil filter housing to have a shot a drilling straight. Even with that still had to cut down the drill bits to keep the angles as close as possible. Got a pretty good fix, however I cut through the tube a little (1/4-1/2") on the rear side of the glow plug hole. Seems like I got the threads back ok, but what are the ramifications of having this tube open to the interior of the head? Looked at the manuals I have, but cannot really get a clue if I am in trouble on this deal. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill Brune
:confused:


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