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  #16  
Old 12-06-2004, 12:32 AM
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Finally finished the mount replacement tonight. This was one of the more trying automotive experiences in recent memory. I think I'd rather pull the drivetrain out of my Acura again than do these mounts twice (well, not really, but it was tough).

I managed to crossthread the lower mount bolt on the driver's side mount (last one I was putting in), necessitating the removal of the 'leg' from the block and some thread-cutting work. That stupid mistake cost me a few hours of frustrating labor -- those mount nuts were *tight*, and there isn't any good way to get leverage on some of them.
---------

Some quick notes, should anyone else be silly enough to tackle this on his/her own:

All upper mount bolts can be accessed using craftsman allen bits (6mm in this case), extension bars and universal joints except the inner bolt on the driver's side -- after removing air cleaner etc on pass. side. (I would advise purchasing these tools if you don't already own them (or similar)).

Said inner bolt is easy to access with a ratchet and allen bit if the underside mount bolt is removed and the engine is raised up enough to gain clearance.

To install mounts, I had good luck threading the upper bolts in first (with engine still raised so access is possible to inner upper pass. side bolt -- I don't see any other way to get that one started.) but not all the way in. Leave them loose so the mount can move a bit.

Use a large prybar and keep weight off the engine mount (with the jack) to get the 'leg' into place to line everything up for the installation of the underside bolt. Visually confirm the 'line' from underneath -- it is easy to see when the threads are lined up with the mount hole. DO NOT force the bolt in -- the 'leg' is aluminum, which is much softer than the bolt and it is very easy to ruin the threads by crossthreading. I speak from experience.

If disaster strikes, and you round out a lower bolt, see posts above. 12-pt. sockets are a good bet.

If you must remove a 'leg' to repair threads, use u-joints and extensions on the mounting nuts. You will need a length of pipe for leverage, as these are tight. I had to remove the driver's side 'leg' nut closest to the oil lines from underneath, using a ratchet, which was then hit with bar and hammer from the front of the car to break it loose. The leg on this side can be removed if the rubber mount is removed first and the engine lowered enough for the leg to clear the steering lines. I assume the same tricks will work on the pass. side leg should it be necessary. The nuts are easier to remove on that one, anyway -- all from the top with extensions/u-joints.

Sorry for long post -- this was a real ordeal, and I thought I'd post while it was fresh on my mind in case someone needed any advice.
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2005, 12:24 PM
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what other tools do I need?

I am contemplating doing both engine mounts on my 83 300 D myself. I have the 6 mm hex drivers, ujoint, extensions etc. Can the job be done with car on 4 jackstands and a floor jack? What other tools do I need?
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  #18  
Old 10-21-2005, 12:53 PM
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Old Dies

"Had to cut through the aluminum arm with a sawsall"

Thats what I was gona tell him, LOL I remember getting a chuckle outa that "chopped" one you did
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1985 Euro 300TD 5 spd 220K
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 130K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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  #19  
Old 10-21-2005, 01:32 PM
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Funola, if my memory is correct, start out my cleaning all of the bits of gunk in the allen socket head screws. Then make sure that the socket tools bottom out and fit properly before applying torque to remove the screws.

You will need either a set of high drive up ramps, or 2 high jack stands. You only need to raise the front end, but you will appreciate some elbow room. A reliable hyraulic jack and a piece of wood is required to raise the engine by the oil pan.

As ACY 76 mentioned, make sure that all screws thread back in by hand before you use any force on them. You don't want to cross thread anything, especially in there.
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  #20  
Old 10-25-2005, 12:21 PM
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Thanks for the tips fellas. Are the allen bolts accesed from the bottom? I don't see them from the engine bay. I don't have a garage and the weather has no been good so I haven't jacked it up to look. Anyone in the Stratford CT area have a garage I can rent for a day or 2?
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  #21  
Old 10-25-2005, 03:10 PM
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Funola,

It's been a couple of years since I replaced the mounts. Each of the 2 bottom screws are accessed underneath from a small access hole in the frame. If the mounts are badly worn, the engine may have shifted so the screws don't align well with the access hole. You may have to pry the engine left or right to get them to line up. (You can make this easier by lifting the engine a bit). Don't risk ruining the socket head if they aren't lined up with the access holes and cleaned out properly.

As for the upper screws, I can't remember but I think you can get at them from the top or from underneath. With the bottom screws removed and the engine jacked up an inch or 2, there is more room in there. Be careful and don't do anything to cause the jack to let go and drop the engine on your hands! Yikes!
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  #22  
Old 11-02-2005, 06:00 PM
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What next?

I got all four (6 and 8 mm) allen head bolts off the engine mounts without a hitch. How do I get the center bolt or nut off? I jacked up the engine but have not enough clearance to get to them. Looks like the engine shocks have to come off but I can't get either the top or bottom 10 mm nuts off the shock because the shaft is spinning. I tried to use a vice grip on the lower rubber bushing in hopes of getting a grip on the shaft but it is still spinning. I was going to put the vice grip on the metal shaft itself nut that would destroy the shock, which may be good. What's the trick?

After the shocks are off, do I have to undo the 4 bolts that secures the big beefy aluminum braket to the block in order to get to the center engine mount bolt?
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2005, 06:43 PM
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Their should be a flatter part on the engine shocks shaft that you can grab with a very small open end wrench. Look at the base of the shock right above the metal circle that holds the rubber bushing down. It is their it took me awhile to find it.

On the W126 if you look at the crossmember that supports the engine mounts, you will see holes in it. Looking up through the holes reveals the big bolts that hold the mount to the engine. My memory is rusty but I would guess 8mm allen head bolts one per mount.

However the W123's may be different I have never been under one of those.
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  #24  
Old 11-02-2005, 08:11 PM
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"Their should be a flatter part on the engine shocks"

I had the same problem, those flat spots are really heard to find if you dont know their there. I wound up by looking at another shock on the bench and found the "flat" spot, then the open end wrench, as mentioned above, did the trick.
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1985 Euro 300TD 5 spd 220K
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 130K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2005, 05:19 PM
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Thanks for he tips. I have the new engine mounts installed! It was a filthy job with a greasy engine and working with the car on ramps. I was quoted $300 for labor plus parts for the job. does that sound right? I didn't feel like paying that much so did it myself. I spent about 8 hours total. The drivers side mount was totally collapsed, probably due to years of diesel fuel and motor oil spilling on it and softening the rubber. The passenger mount looked ok but I changed it anyway. The growling noise I was complaining about is gone! Yea! I did not change the engine shocks. However, there's a new problem. The engine now has a very bad shake at idle which was not as bad before I changed the mounts. In park, the shake is worse than in drive, and even worse when in neutral. I can see the engine rock side to side. Are the engine shocks bad? I had them out and tried to push the shaft in by hand but couldn't move them. Not sure if that was a good test or not. I have not adjusted the valves yet. Could that help reduce the shake? Ideas welcome.
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2005, 06:28 PM
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For anyone else...

DON'T just go straight in with your allen, take 10 MINUTES to thoroughly clean out all debris from the inside each one- get a needle and scrape and clean all the inner flats, then compressed air or even bycycle pump all the debris up and out of the recess, you will find the correct allen key WILL then fit nice and snug, and it will loosen off. It feels as if you've rounded it, but you're not actyually getting your allen to the bottom of the recess so it's not gripped right. It's possible you think you've ruined it when you've not.
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  #27  
Old 11-04-2005, 10:52 AM
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notes on r&r of engine mounts on 83 300 D

I thought I'd write this while it's still fresh in my mind.

front end of car on ramps.

There are 3 allen head bolts on each mount. If your engine is greasy like mine (it will be cleaned), chances are you can't see any of the upper bolts.You'll have to do some crud scraping to see them. The 8mm bolt is accessed from the bottom (thread pointing up), the two 6 mm bolts have the threads pointing down accessed by however you can get to them. The engine shock mounts has to come off and the engine jacked up high enough to get enough clearance to access the 6 mm bolt near it.

The allen head bolts must be cleaned out real well with a needle, solvent, then compressed air. You do not want to strip them!!!

You'll need a 6 mm and 8 mm allen head sockets. A 3/8" ratchet with a flex head and a 16" pipe for leverage made the job much easier.

Here's the steps:

1. Remove the 8 mm bolts on each mount

2. Remove the engine shocks by removing the bottom 10 mm nut and the two 10 mm nuts that secures the upper mount plate (diamond shaped). There is a flat section on the shaft which you have to put a very small wrench on to keep the shaft from spinning to remove the bottom nut.

3. Jack the engine up by the oil pan with a piece of wood about a foot square. The engine has to go up just high enough to gain access to one of the 6 mm bolts. I used a mechanical scissor jack, which I feel is safer than a hydraulic jack.

4. Remove the old mounts and put the new mounts in. If the old mount is crushed, the thin metal heat shield screen is probably bent. Just unbend it and re-use.

After I lowered the engine a bit onto the new mounts, I had to use a crow bar between the engine and frame to line up the threads so the 8 mm bolt can be hand threaded in. Use a flashlight to line the threads up. Do not work blind and cross the threads!

The job took me about 8 hours over a 2 day period with help from list members. It's a dirty job and you may want to think twice doing it yourself.

attached pic of a bad mount next to a new mount.
Attached Thumbnails
300D engine mount blues-photo_110305_002.jpg  
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Last edited by funola; 11-04-2005 at 11:04 AM.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2005, 12:51 PM
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Some comments:

Said inner bolt is easy to access with a ratchet and allen bit if the underside mount bolt is removed and the engine is raised up enough to gain clearance.



I've done motormounts many times with less problems-always. So, don't be scared away from replacement.

Check the dampeners and replace them as needed. Generally for the upper side allens on the driver side- just need about 6' of extension and you can get on them well.
I've got and recommend the stallwillie short stubby 6mm allen 1/4 drive. Works great and you don't have the access problems stated. In general, I find the Stallwillie allens are much harder and don't seem to roundout the allens as easily.

If you've got the front of the car on jackstands, underneath, an extension and allen combo is what you need- 8mm I think. Hold the pivoting end of the rachet and not just the handle. Make sure the allens are clean, if they visually look worn by a previous mechanic- you can put a dap of valve lapping compound on the allen and the abrasive seems to really help hold it in a worn allen screw(SHCS). I use a 1/2 drive rachet and 1/2 extension with a adapter. The 3/8 extensions get flexi and makes it hard to overcome the friction holding the fastener.

If the motor mounts were in quite bad shape, you should inspect the transmission mount too!

Michael
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2005, 01:55 PM
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Funola said...

"The engine now has a very bad shake at idle which was not as bad before I changed the mounts...."

You may just have to adjust the rack dampener bolt on your IP, a very quick fix.
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  #30  
Old 11-08-2005, 10:00 AM
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How were the dampeners on each side of the engine?

Yea the engine might vibrate more if the mounts were colapsed-but the body shouldn't be shaking.
There was a change to the rack dampener bolts also- you need to have the latest style. Should be able to get more information on rack dampener bolt adjustment and replacement here in the archives.

Michael
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