I was thinking of overhauling the engine in my 240. Not that it really needs it right now, but for the sake of a few modifications. I was thinking of replacing the piston/rod assemblies with turbo diesel units and adding a turbo. I know I would have to modify the fuel pump and install turbo diesel injectors also. Has anyone out there done something similar? I see four cylinder turbo diesels whenever I travel to Europe and was thinking that it would be nice to have a few added horses but keep the fuel economy of a four cylinder.

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83 W123 240D
76 300D, "Lil Yellow Car"
1978 Cessna 172N 180 HP Mod

"If life ain't fun, I'm not interested"

The important things are those that you learn after you know it all.
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Build a better mousetrap and you will REALLY infuriate corporate america.

If you will do a search Gurka discusses the 240 turbo which is available in India... so you might could just buy tech stuff you need like the Injection pump from there....

It sounds like an extremely difficult task to convert a 4 cylinder IJP to fuel properly for a turbo. You need to substantially increase the fuel delivery under boost, like the factory 5 cylinder IJP on the 617.95x units.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Don't forget the all important oil squirters for piston cooling too. The huge difference between the turbo and non-turbo mercedes diesels.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

There's a company in the UK that specializes in aftermarket turbos for diesels. They have done a lot of 616 engines in MB trucks. Check my posts for the last few days, I posted the link for someone.
I don't believe they make any changes to the internals of the engines.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I don't recommend actually trying this, but for the sake of a gedanken experiment...

You could theoretically bolt on an OM617 turbo pump and just cap off the 5th superfluous delivery valve (or remove the plunger altogether. This would require some creative injector line plumbing. The oil squirters are the next big issue, but you could conceivably locate their relative position on the OM616 block, then drill and tap (big job). Then you'd need to swap in the pistons, valves and camshaft from the turbo engine. Or, if the latter issues are too much trouble, you could use a combination of an intercooler and water injection to manage the increased exhaust gas temps under boost--boost should be limited to under ~10psi as well. EGT's are the sworn enemy of a turboed engine, unless you like melted pistons and such. Oh, and don't forget the custom intake and exhaust manifolds.

All in all, probably not worth the effort, but I'd love to see someone pull it off nonetheless. MB really should've put a turbo on the OM616 and OM601 engines for mass distribution.

Here in Australia there are a lot of companys offering warrantys on their turbo kits. One commonly modded engine is the 2.4L one in the Toyota Hilux. While there are kits to retrofitt and ALDA type device (boots compensator), they are regarded by many diesel specialists to be "pollution/smog control" devices.

Another important point is that, upgraded internals are not required, if factors are taken into consideration. Diesel run HOT when overfuelled, and COOl when lean but lack power, so 10psi boost is not an issue, with an intercooler you could safely run 12psi, also diesels have stong bottom ends designed to handle high compresssion. As long as the EGT is kept in check and the engine is not overfuelled, turbocharging an N/A diesel is a viable option.

Of course this should only be attempted on a engine that is in a good state of tune, ie injectors, IP, valves, blow by, etc. are all checked to determine the condition of the engine. If your rebuilding the engine anyway, theres no reason why you couldnt use the rods and pistons from a turbo OM617.

There is one major problem with that idea: A 617 pump timing would not match four cylinders. You get 5 squirts per 2 crank rotations instead of 4. A 5th position disabled would still have 3 cylinders mistimed.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

Fatal flaw--abort--abort. So much for my phase I gedanken experiment.

Ok Phase II: How about machining a flange to adapt a VW IDI 1.9L turbo VE type pump? Those can be modified much easier to increase fuel volume and have the LDA (ALDA) unit all ready for boost signal. Really out there as far as mods go, but again, this ain't gonna happen anyway...

Or, use the STT turbo kit that comes with EVERYTHING including return oil lines and a BOLT ON ALDA for the 240 IP. (YES< I AM TIRED OF yelling about this).
This setup allows a decent power gain with engines liviung up to 400 kmi (verified).

NO OIL SQUIRTERS !!!

and yes, I have a complete kit.

For gods sakes .. If you look at the bolt on device that basically meters the fuel for boost - it could be machined with a drill press and a lathe.

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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7

Heres how you do it: Believe it or not a turbodiesel will survive without oil cooled pistons! You just have to be very careful and not let the EGT exceed 1100* (probe pre-turbo) Regarding modifiying the fuel pump, you don't have to! Remove your pump and have a shop turn up the fuel. 10% is recommended but you could go 15% if you are careful. Now obviously the engine will be over-fueled in low-boost/no boost conditions. This is no big deal if there is no load on the engine. You would have to change the way you drive slightly. Simply slowly depressing the accelerator pedal until the boost builds and then you can put your foot down. Every turbo will start to build boost at a certain RPM. Too much fuel/accelerator before that "sweet spot" in the rev range and you won't have enough boost, and the EGT's will spike up. Simply put-You don't lug the engine! In a 240D I doubt you lug the engine anyway. Turning up the fuel in an Injection Pump doesn't mean the engine is over-fueled. It simply means that YOUR FOOT is now the control of how much fuel the engine gets. Pay attention to the EGT gauge and you won't have any problems. An EGT and Boost gauge are MANDATORY for this type of modification. I have 209K on my truck. It has no oil cooled pistons. It has no ALDA/aneroid. Its running twice the stock boost. The pump is 15% over-fueled. Keeping the EGT's within the limits lets me do this. I've had over 5tons of trailer behind it and simply paying attention to the gauges keeps it alive. I've pulled up mountain passes holding a continuous EGT of 1200* (my trucks limit is 1250*) wide open, pedal-on-the-floor without problems. Compression is still great and oil analysis says I have no issues. You will have to pay attention to the EGT gauge when pulling long inclines. If the EGT's climb past 1100* simply back off the accelerator and slow down and/or downshift. Everyone thinks this is rocket science. It ain't. Keep the EGT's under 1100*, which is very conservative, and your diesel will last a long time. RT

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Got any pics of the STT kit w/bolt-on ALDA?

i believe the stt kit that has a "bolt on alda" is for engines that use a pneumatic IP, probably an upgraded unit to allow for boot in the line as well as vacume. The STT turbo kit for OM 616 with mechanical IP do not have a boost compensation device as it is only for pollution control, it is however optional for countries that require it.

basically if you pump is mechanically controlled, YOU DO NOT NEED AN ALDA(boost compensator)

Thanks for the plug Leathermang.

Actually it can be done easily, the OM 616 turbo sold here in India uses OM 617 turbo pistons, valves, oil pump, oil cooler and bigger radiator. The crank gets nitrided to handle the extra load. There are couple of versions of the engine available from Euro-I to Euro-IV, the euro-I version uses a modified pump with no ALDA but the other models use intercooler and ALDA. The injectors are same as the stock OM 616 and also run at the stock 120psi pressure. Hope this helps.

I'm almost positive you meant 120 BAR.

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