My car is 1992 300D.

On the manual, it reads that my car needs

7.0 liters

of engine oil for oil and filter change.



I brought 4 quart bottles and one gallon jug Amsoil 10W-40 to the dealer. This becomes

0.946*4+3.785 = 7.569 liters.



However, the dealer used only 3 quart bottles and one gallon jug. They used only

0.946*3+3.785 = 6.623 liters,

and left one unopened quart bottle in my car.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

Park the car on a level surface. Allow the oil to drain back into the engine after shutoff for 5 minutes. Pull the sticka nd see if the oil is half way between the two red marks. If so, you are in good shape. Filling all the way up to the top mark seems to be a bad idea. Engines seem to be happier at the half way point. And I think that works out to be about 7 quarts on your car.

I second that answer... and lots of posts suggest midway between the min and max marks is the best place....
The Absolute Worst deal is to overfill... this causes oxidation and takes the effective life of the oil to way too short a period.... so the dealer was doing exactly what he should have... being sure it was not overfilled...and giving you the last bottle to keep it above the min mark on the dipstick...

ktlinq,

Matye the oil changer checked the oil before starting the engine and the oil filter was not full. This would show full on the dip stick but the oil lever will be lower after the engine is started and fill the oil filter.

So check th oil lever as BobK suggested and add some if oil level below lower mark on dip stick.

I'm just wondering why you took your car to a dealer for such a simple job as an oil change. How much were you charged for the service.

P E H

I never overfill, especially since a diesel can "feed" on its own oil and cause a runaway. However, I have never heard this argument before. Please explain...

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

SD Blue,

Sounds like more of leather's "words for the birds".

P E H

If the oil is too full, the spinning crank can hit it. this slashes the oil and makes foam. You can fill things up in a hurry with foam.

Thanks.

I had 30 k mile maintenance service done at the dealer.

An interesting thing was that they claimed that the oil is not approved by Mercedes, though DB 229.3, 228.3, API CI-4 etc. are printed on the label.
I did not want to argue with the (otherwise very nice) service advisor and allowed him write the following on the invoice.

CLIENT INSISTED WE USE HIS OWN OIL . . AMSOIL BRAND. HE HAS BEEN EXPLAINED THAT WE USE MERCEDES RECOGNIZED APPROVED OIL AND HIS OIL HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED BY MERCEDES BENZ.

The service advisor might have seen oil leak after putting in synthetic on old high mileage MB (just my guess).


I will check the oil level after it stops raining.

__________________
1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

Leathermang is right......................

Mercedes Benz several years ago issued a service bulliten not to fill to factory specs. I read this some time ago and cant remember specifics, but since that time, I have only added to between the low and full marks on the dip stick which is just shy a quart from specs. BB

Amsoil is not "approved" for a lot of engines, that doesn't mean that it doesn't meet the ratings (it's one of the best oils out there), I bet it doesn't have the API circle thing on the bottles but it says "meets or exceeds......"instead, that's why they noted that on the invoice.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

"Foam resistance
Poor lubrication can result from foam. Oil pressure loss and hydraulic lifter noise can be caused by foam. Over-filling the crankcase can contribute to crankshaft “windage” which contributes to oil foaming. Foam can be reduced by foam inhibiting additives which affect the oil’s surface tension."

from:
http://www.nutidltd.co.uk/sub_page.cfm?id=132

Heat can also cause oxidation... I remember reading that the use of forward/reverse trying to 'rock' a car out of a hole....can quickly raise the temperature of the transmission fluid .... and that at a certain point every 10 degree rise halfs the effective life of the fluid...
In other words.... you might sit there for ten minutes and completely ruin your trans fluid... you would need to replace it as soon as possible...

Windage trays...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=windage+trays+&btnG=Search
Hot Rods in the 1960's used them... and now many regular engines come with them....

Wasuchi,

That is interesting.

I am looking at Mobil 0W-40 bottle and Amsoil 10W-40 bottle.

On Mobil label, the circle has the word

"American Petroleum Institue * Certified".

On Amsoil label, the circle does not have the word "certified".
It just reads "exceeds API service SL, CI-4 specs.".
It is not official API Starburst mark.

If it exceeds the API spec, why does API not certify it?


There is difference on the back label, too.

Mobil: Approved against both MB 229.3 . . .

Amsoil: Recommended for applications requiring the following specifications . . DB 229.3 . . .

Does this mean Amsoil is inferior?

I just visited Castrol web site. The word "approved" is not used at all.
Syntec 10W-40

Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and meets the engine protection requirements of GM 4718M, ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.


Hmmm do you recommend against using engine oils whose label does not have the word "approved" or "certified"?

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

The reason it doesn't have the API certification is that they (Amsoil) haven't spent the money to put it through the tests, supposed to be pretty expensive. Nothing wrong with Amsoil.... I don't think I would use some no-name oil that didn't have the API certification. I wouldn't use Amsoil if the engine is under warranty either..... if there was a problem and they could prove you used an oil that wasn't certified they might be able to back out of the warranty.

If you want to know more look here.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

Amsoil is a Mercedes approved oil and is an EXCELLENT oil. You can find the information on all of the approved Mercedes engine oils in the following web-site: http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html.

I personally use Mobil 1 0W40. I would have used Amsoil, but its harder to get here in Canada.

Phil

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Heat, I definitely knew about from past towing experience (5th wheel). On towing vehicles, oil and trans. coolers are as critical as the coolant in hot weather. This may be overkill, but I change oil and trans. fluid once a month when we have sustained high temps in the summer. (lot of stop and go)

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )