Going to change the thermostat tomorrow. Are there any pitfalls to this job or is it just the two bolts out and the two bolts in?

Thanks,

Joe

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1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car

It's been a few years, but I recall it being a bit more of a pain in the neck than that. Access is tight down there. I recall pulling the flexible hose from the air cleaner. There's also a temp sender right at the thermostat. It's easy to damage while working in the area, so consider removing it as well.

Overall an easy job, but access is more difficult than for most MB engines.

- JimY

When I changed the t-stat on my car, I broke the tip off of the temp sender near the t-stat. I would remove the sender completely rather than breaking it off. Make sure you have a new crush washer for it. Make sure that you align the notch in the t-stat with the housing unit. The most important item after you have succesfully installed the t-stat is to properly bleed air out of the system. I did not and overheated the engine that created headaches for years to following until I ended up replacing the engine. The car has a mickey mouse small bleed line from the return housing near where the top heater hose attachs (near the fuel filter) and it runs to the expansion tank. Supposedly this is the bleed line. Does not work well unless you are persistant and patience. Being neither of theese, I now resort to the "keep it simple" principle. I remove the top heater hose on the radiator side and backfill the engine block until it is comletely topped up and then quickly attached the hose to the radiator. Makes a little mess, but just hose everything off when you are done.

Have fun
Henry

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63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC

I have always filled using the heater hose to block. Learned that on the W115 230 with aluminum head.. You need to have water in the head when you start the engine.
Oh, Henry please pick up your 603 engine over on Old County Road before I snag some parts off it! Ha!
Merry Christmas all
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 106441
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 295530
1983 300D 243280
1985 300TD 217300
1987 300D 262300

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I found it effective to disconnect the heater hose near the brake booster at the firewall. Just fill the cooling system through the expansion tank. Fill it all the way up, then go have a cup of coffee. (Beer is OK if it's after noon.) The level in the expansion tank will be down a bunch when you return. Top it off, reconnect the heater hose, and away you go. Works great.

- JimY

I'd also test the new 'stat before installing it, to make sure it opens at the right temperature.

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1982 300SD

I just replaced my thermostat on the 300dt. From the school of hard knocks, I should have disconnected the battery because the themostat housing plopped down on the alternator and smoked it. Oily

I have been messing with the thermostat on my 87. I am about to change the radiator (seeping around the end cap seals) and wanted to do a clean and rinse of the cooling system before changing radiators. Had trouble getting the engine temperature up high enough to get thermostat to open, so I removed it. Do the things prevously recommended (disconnect battery, remove turbo intake hose, etc) because it is tough to access otherwise. One thing I noticed is that there was a good amount of corrsion with pitting on the inside of the housing. Has anyone else run into this? I am considering getting a new housing because of the corrosion. Thanks and good luck.
Lee

My thermostat housing was not pitted but the thermostat was nearly glued to the housing. I used gasket release to pop it loose. It seems the rubber gasket had melted at some point. I also replaced the water pump and found some wear on the impeller where the impeller actually scored the mating surface. I don't think the thermostat or water pump had ever been replaced. Oily