Right.

You control the amount of fuel supplied by the rack. With the ALDA in place, the ALDA limits the fuel, even if you mash your right foot, you don't get maximum fuel.

It works fantastic with the 603. I never get smoke. However, I don't mash my foot from a dead stop. Even when doing the 0-60 runs, the smoke was certainly tolerable.

Now, some folks have removed the ALDA from the 617 with similar results and some have had massive smoke. Seems to depend on the IP. I have not removed it from the 617. That engine is running too fantastic to mess with it right now.

It's gone off my SD if anyone cares, dartier off a dead stop. Quicker than with the ALDA maxed.

My car does run exceedingly well, its powerful off the line and in general, maybe a little low on power at 80+.... :D (I attribute it to the ALDA being fully CCW, but it could be my fuel filters too....) but it still hauls itself up to the IP-fuel stop at 112ish mph....so its probably ok.

I mainly want to try it out of curiosity.....:D

So you're running your 603 with no ALDA whatsoever??

Really? Any excessive smoke? How about top end power when on the freeway and such, improvement? Was it removed by you or previous owner? How much of a difference? Should I stop asking so many questions? :D ;) :dizzy2:

Yep.

You need to remove the ALDA from the 603 to adjust it........so........I figured, WTF and took it for a test drive without the ALDA. It is a virgin ALDA and I couldn't bring myself to break it open and start screwing around with it.

No excessive smoke, that's why I believe the '85s run lean. I also just Woodruff Key'd my 617 so I'll tell ya later this week when I button it all back up.

Top end power isn't changed (the manual boost controller helped that quite a bit).

But the 0mph dead stop is MUCH better. Car jumps up to speed until the turbo comes on to burn more fuel. It was a PITA to remove it on the 617, I ended up removing my IP lines to do it.

Worth it? YES. :D

I was going to buy a new AlDA for mine on ebay yesterday, the bidding was at $40 until about 5 minutes before the end, and then it shot up over $100! The only problem I have with mine, is the seal was shot so I put in an o ring, which worked at first, but the o ring was very tight on the shaft, and I believe it to be sticking sometimes. Does anyone know where to get the proper seal for an alda?? It would probably be much cheaper to buy the seal than buying a used alda, if only I could find a source.

I've got an extra one from a 603 IP. Drop me a line...

Alda
 

1984 300d Turbo 141,000
Installed New Bottom Rubber O-ring Seal Use Atf On Seal And Clean
The Shaft And Lube It Must Move Fast After Check With Fuel Vacuum
Gage 10 Psi Max Use Top Output Of Vacuum Hand Pump For Leaks Push
Bottom Of Alda In At 10 Psi, All Turbo Power Now No Smoke

Anyone know a source for the ALDA seals. The question is kicked around in this thread, but no one seems to have an answer.

Andrew

Recycled
 

for new members

ALDA seals
 

I know this is an age old question.:rolleyes:
How sells the seal and O-ring for the ALDA?

There was a guy who sold the shaft seal, but I haven't been able to contact him in years - no idea what happened to him, also no idea what his source was.

I've never seen anyone who found a source for the O-ring between the two halves, but you can use sealant to fix a leak there, just make sure it's fully dry before you pressure test it.


:balloon2:

What's the trick in getting the 4 phillips head screws off? I tried an impact screwdriver and it didn't budge so I stopped before stripping it. Are they loctited and need heat first? I was going to try that but never got around to it.

Impact driver worked for me. I think threadlocker was used on the screws so they are a real pain to break loose.