Steering squirrelly W126
 

So far I have replaced:
#1. Both upper ball joints where bad.
#2. Guide rods where bad: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/92874-diy-bearing-bracket-guide-rod-mount-replacement-mercedes-benz-300sd.html?highlight=Guide+rod+DIY
#3. Idler arm rebuild: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/86872-diy-page-introduction-idler-arm-rebuild.html
#4. Trailing arm bushings: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/111052-trailing-arm-bushing-w126-1985-300sd-diy.html
#5. Rear springs weak and sagging: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111052
#6. Next on the list is steering gearbox R&R, "diesel don" gave me one from a parts car.

Cheaper than car payments and a luxury diesel car, it is a keeper. :D

"Rat Tailed" steering
 

W.H.,

I Know you have replaced the "Tie rods" + "Steering Damper" (shock absorber)

As you know this chassis should track like it's on rails.

The box is the only thing that would add to normal "Play" (with everything
else you've done)

Ummm
 

Yes.
Feels like over an inch of play in the steering wheel.
That is why the gearbox is going into my trunk, for Monday.
I figure eight hours for springs, bushings, gearbox and aux pump.
Then I can get back to working on customer cars.

Any other of those w126 steering boxes kicking around with little to no play?
How about some seats :p

*scrounger*

Hmmm.
 

I have inspected front and rear sway bars = OK.
The front lower control arms, ball joints and bushings are good.

Check tires
 

Might want to check the speed rating on your tires........I purchased new Michelin tires for my Mercedes, Forget the series, but they were the 80,000 ones that they use on Cadillac's and Lincoln's. Thought they would be suitable, but I was WRONG. After they were installed, the steering and handling became very squirrelly, not associating it with the tires, I replaced all sorts of bushings, dampers, and misc part in front and rear suspension. Only after the problem still existed did I realize it was tires. Once I replaced them with v rated tires the car's steering and handling was back on track.

Hmmm
 

Second set of tires, new brand.

v or higher rated?

Yes.
 

They are...

Replaced:
 

My steering gearbox and rear sub frame bushings. :)
I am replacing the lower ball joints and turbo drain tube gasket, O rings and grommet tomorrow. :)

I think this gromet where the turbo drain line goes into the oil pan is what attibutes our vehicles odd oil level chacteristics. You know how many people always say their oil drops after fill down to a certain mark quickly then never drops anymore. I think that can be connected to this tube...Mine is...well...oily *drat*
how much did the steering box set you back? New/used?

Rebuilt steering gearbox
 

Cost me $400.00 USD... :(
The drain tube parts where under $10.00 USD... :)
The lower ball joints where free, from a retired friend. :D

Ouch
Cool
Super cool!

Every time I get annoyed with my 'sloppy' steering, I remember the price of a replacement gearbox. :(

Rotten metal.
 

Ruined two front tires.
Bearing bracket; inside where the guide rod repair kit mounts, the aluminum was bad.
With the new guide rod repair kits in place, the surrounding aluminum has turned to powdered mush under road load.
I have one half degree of Castor slop on each side of front steering.
Purchased good used bearing brackets from a forum member, now they must be installed.

How do you guys put a used steering box on and get the splines lined up exactly how they came off since a different box is going on? Do you just put it on then remove the steering wheel and fix the wheel/tire alignment with moving the wheel around on its splines or would that mess anything else up? I heard before that dealers have a special lock tool that locks the box in the straight position or something like that.

Thanks
David

EDIT:
Did you ever open that old steering box of yours? I remember you saying that you wanted to sometime. If you started rebuilding these put me on your list!