Well, I LOVE it. My girlfriend really likes it too so that's even better than me liking it! however, we both strongly agree that my '79 SD has more "character," but that's for a different thread at a different time.

Naturally I have a couple questions about the "new" used car.

1.) It sometimes takes 4-5 turns of the key to get it to cycle the plugs. I turn the key on then if the pluyg light doesn't come on, I turn it back to the left and try again, etc. until I get the light. GP relay dirty/bad?
2.) The key doesn't always "return?" to it's normal driving spot which does a number for the heater. Took me 2 hours on the way home to figure out why the heater would not work right. It would cycle for about 2 seconds every 3 minutes. It was weird, but now I just turn the key back a little after it has started. Is this a sign of the tumbler or key switch going bad?
3.) I timed 0-60 in my head (1 mississippi, 2 mississippi, etc.) and got 15. Doesn't this seem kind of slow? I think that's about where my SD would be and I thought the SDL's were quite a bit peppier.
4.) When driving slow (10 mph or so) and let off the gas, I feel a shake coming from the engine. That's really the only time that feel any shaking, rattling. Man, this thing is soooo much smoother and quieter than a 617...
5.) Should cold air come out of the vent facing the back seat? Only cold outside air will come in there, is that normal?
6.) The lights that luminate "D" and "R" are out. Where is the bulb for this? I thought it was a fiberoptic type thing, but all the other lights are working fine. I put Sylvania Silverstar bulbs in since one headlight was out and they're pretty nice. They have a pretty clear light especially when compared to the OEM.
Thanks Guys, I couldn't have bought this thing without your guidance.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Hey David and welcome to the SDL club.

I sent you a PM regarding the pull on mine. You were right on the money. The bushing that holds the sway bar on the right side is gone.

OK, now to your questions:

1) One, or more than one of the glow plugs is bad. Most of the plugs are likely coming on, but the light won't if there are one (more than one?) not working.

2) This is more difficult. It sounds like the key switch is going bad, but, cannot tell if it's just the lock cylinder or the switch.

3) It's definitely too slow. Sounds like no boost. Time to get the old gauge out and see where the blockage is occurring.

4) This is rather strange at such a low speed. Does it shake at idle, when not moving at all? Could it be out of round tires?

5) I've never paid any attention to that vent, so I cannot advise.

6) Have not had the console out yet either. Hattie might know.

It's definitely different from the 617 powered vehicles, that's for sure.

Is that for you? No more fintails for the time being then? My mother has an SDL, it is quite a cruiser, very smooth. A little slow off the line, may be geared differently than the 116, but it loves 75-80mph.

Her car does that thing when you let off the gas all of a sudden at a slow speed. The engine shakes for a second. I suppose it is normal.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

On a 617 at least, the GP lioght won't come on at all if 2 or more GP's are out or the relay is bad. I don't know about the 603 however.

Would I use a vacuum gauge to measure boost? Where would I attach it? I feel like an idiot and I know there are boost gauges. Would Autozone loan something like that out? I got it today so EGR "repair" is coming up and I also have to find some misc. interior pieces from a member here parting out a similar SDL located by me.

The car doesn't shake at idle at all! It's just right after the gas is released like Joshol said then it's back to normal. It does have a slight jolt to it when shutting down, so I bet the engine shocks are bad? If so, then I'll just live with it for awhile.

About the shifter lights, I did some research and believe the early 126's are lighted by the octpus at the shifter but the later 126's have a bulb of there own towards the front? Is this right? Would I just remove the center council piece then?

Regarding the fintail, an SDL like mine for the price I got it at was too good to pass in my opinion. Plus, I am going away to college next year so I don't have another 2 years to keep looking. I'll have to hold off on the perfect 220SE stickshift on the column with velour until after law school. (long while away.)

Please keep the suggestions coming.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Well actually I did have my center console out a few times. Their is a light builb under the shifter, it is really small. The whole dash seems to use them, I don't remember the Autozone number off the top of my head it has been like 6 months. Yes their is a lot of fiber optic lights in the dash. If my memory serves me the little normal light builbs shoot the light down little fiber optic cables to your climate control buttons ect.

Now as to the rear vent mine does the same thing and I have yet to figure it out. The lever on the rear vent controls a cable much like the shifter cable on a bike or boat. This cable moves a set of flaps on the ductwork forwad and below the ash tray. This turns them on and off, very simple fix usually the cable comes unclamped. This system is the same in the W210's btw. I am just glad the rear vents work, on most cars they don't. The dealer told my grandfather they were just for show on the Jag.


Check the 80 amp strip fuse too, real cheap and you should carry a spare.

As to the vibration, I suspect your engine shocks are not up to par. Grab the engine and try to rock it side to side. With good shocks you shouldn't be able to move it much at all. About $30 each plus the mount kits at $45 each. A real pita job I hated doing shocks and mounts. Mounts are $17 each, while your under their...

As to performance you really need to time it with good watch or stop watch, but a 603 should rev very well all the way to 4,800rpm. A properly running 603 will leave a 617 in the dust and pull strong. I have run mine to 0-85 maxing out each gear and she got their very fast. I need to time mine she is very healthy.

Also kill the egr asap, they do nothing but hurt these engines. I bet your boost sensor is clogged. Someone maybe could post a pick, it is stuck on the firewall. The bottom vac line runs to tha manifold, and the upper one runs to the ALDA (I think). The very top one should have a cap on it. Egr tar clogs it up and then boost is cut, a very common problem and simple fix.

Enjoy the new car!

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I once had the 617 do the same thing with bad glow plugs. You would have to cycle the key about six times to get the light to come on. Replaced two plugs and it was back to normal. I think the #1 plug has something to do with it.

You need to get one of those boost gauges for about $20. I picked up on on e-bay. It is a combo boost/vacuum gauge and I find that I use it all the time.
EGR repair is not a big problem.

Here is a pic of it. It's mounted right on the firewall on the driver's side. It is a culprit for clogging.

Yeah thats the one, check and clean before you do anything else. Also replace the air and fuel filters. 603's don't like dirty airfilters, I do mine once a year about every 12k-15k miles.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Alright, I'll spray carb cleaner in the valve? That won't hurt it or anything will it? Can I use a mityvac as a boost gauge? I have one of those. Also, how do you guys use a mityvac on the small MB vacuum hoses? The one big rubber hose that came with my pump is too big to fit snuggly on the plastic MB lines. Do you guys just go to a hardware store and make up some plumbing? I can't wait to get off work tomorrow so I can come home and drive the SDL some more. I love it. However my dad wants me to sell my SD before I make the SDL my main driver.
Thanks
David

EDIT: one more thing: How do I clean out the power seat switches? I heard Hattie say it was pretty sophisticated, but I'm up to the challenge. Are there any directions here on at least getting it apart since I usually tend to break little tabs when taking such things apart.
Thanks Again
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Now you a really working my memory, they do come apart. But be very careful getting it back together is the hard part. They use little balls and springs to make contact with copper strips that send the seat signals. Pretty standard electro-mechanical switch. They usually don't "break" just fill up with crap and don't work right. I used electrical contact cleaner to clean it up. Also before you take it apart get a few broken spare switches. You will need some of their parts. Using the two from my 420 parts car and my drivers side switch I was able to put together one good one. It still works fine and was far better then spending $110 on a new one. You will need a bright clean work area, lots of time, and a few spare switch's. A magnet and small blade screwdriver also help.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

The vent at the back of the console is a fresh air only vent. I keep it closed except in summer and on long drives if the back seat is not occupied. The heat for the back seat area comes from vents under the front seats.

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N. Hodges
1994 S350
1987 300 SDL (for sale)

Defitely get a stopwatch or a cheap-o timex watch to get your times accurate before you get too wild with the diagnostics..
15 seconds is within human error, espically with the "on the floor" factor contributing to mind cycles.

Congrats on the new auto...my fresh air vent in the rear is the same...its nice when the car is awefully full

Check your motor mounts and engine shocks...

Congrats on your new ride.

I agree with the previous posts.

1. Glow plug(s) are bad, check and replace.
2. Switch tumbler. It will eventually need to be replaced.
3. Use a stop watch, don't rip into it like a madman if it's off a bit. There's time to fix everything.
4. Could be engine mounts. The OM 603 has an electronic idle speed, mine drops off fast sometimes and rumbles on recovery.
5. Rear vent is cool (ouside or cooled with A/C only). Rear heat is ducted under the front seats. Do not block with oversize floor mats...
6. Remove the ash tray and coin tray, reach under left front of shifter, feel the wires, pull down gently. It's a 2W instrument bulb in a socket. Plug back in by feel. You will see P R N D 3 & 2 again.

Fiber optics are in the dash, they illuminate the dashes under the left, center and right vent controls, the rear defrost, power antenna and rear dome light switches. One 2W bulb, it's behind the wood panel in an 'octopus' holder.

Best Regards,
Jim

Don't use carb spray in the switchover valve, it will ruin it for sure.

Blow into the pressure (manifold) side with the other side attached. If air blows out the top, replace the valve.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Good thing you didn't buy that rustbucket David. The SDL will get you through college for a lot less money. Then when you get out and are making buckets of money, you can buy a four post lift for your garage so you can grease the zerks on the 220SE every day.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6