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-   -   The time has come, my rear window is coming out later this week! (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/111277-time-has-come-my-rear-window-coming-out-later-week.html)

Hatterasguy 12-27-2004 01:17 AM

The time has come, my rear window is coming out later this week!
 
I have the gasket (OE), but I have not been able to find the time. But later this week I will lay my SDL up (as usual :rolleyes: ) for a few days and pull out the rear window. I hope I don't find to much rust. Also MB seems to use a putty around the rear window anybody know about this stuff? The dealer doesn't seem to. I will try to post pics for future use.

I will also take off the drivers side door to try to fix the door handle, and the window regulator just died a horrible death in that door today. Good timing on its part. :rolleyes: Also I can't forget the water pump thats another small repair I will take care of.

I am hoping after these repairs everything will be good for a few months, the last few weeks have been trying something that costs $100 has broken every week. :rolleyes: First the Alt, then last week was the water pump, and now today the regulator. At this rate I am stuck with here until I can save up a few bucks to slip into something newer.

It should be an interesting week I will keep this post updated as these all seem to be common W126 problems.

Btw Brian I will get your bushing in the mail Monday, I ran out of time Friday.

WANT '71 280SEL 12-27-2004 01:19 AM

Hattie, you have the tools and the knowledge to pull the window and reaplce the gasket yourself? I have to admit I'm jealous! Is there anything tricky about it? How do you get the window out as in trim, etc.?
Thanks
David

Hatterasguy 12-27-2004 01:27 AM

Well I have to give my dad the credit for this one, he knows how to take it out. He pulled the one out of my 420 parts car. He also has done a few in pickups and mine seems pretty simple. I do know the trim needs to be put in the gasket before you put the window back in. It cost $250 if you want new trim, I did until my alt died. Gasket isn't to bad about $80. You also need to pull the rear seat out and package shelf, along with the piller trim to get to the wires for the defrost; their is one on each side. I will also take off the trunk lid so it isn't in the way when I am grinding.

rwthomas1 12-27-2004 08:33 PM

Hatterasguy,
The MB sealant is part# A0019893120 The local dealer got some for me in a day or so. Some will say that the sealant is not needed. My rear glass did not seal without it. While you have the window out grind/wirewheel all the rust out and use POR15 to treat it. Then sand, prime and topcoat. The sealer is squeezed in around the glass/rubber union and the rubber/body union. Be very careful and don't use too much on the rubber/body side. Just slide the applicator tip under the rubber and lay down a bead, just enought to seal the rubber to the body. Any excess that squeezes out is difficult to clean up. This stuff sticks to everything! If you get in a bind with the sealant let me know, I have half a tube left (you will only need half anyway) RT

boneheaddoctor 12-28-2004 08:42 AM

I need to do mine too......may have to wait till spring however. Been putting this off for way too long.

cooty 12-28-2004 04:53 PM

I took care of my leaking window this summer. I found the window was pushed out very easy form the inside. I also picked up two 80lb suction cups and a small nylon rope. For the reinstall. Remember that you chance bending the trim if you remove it before you remove the glass.
The best way to remove is to cut the old gasket from the inside then push out. The trim should be easy to remove then. I had a glass shot perform this once before. They used a generic gasket. They do not fit right. Use only oem gasket. About the sealant that you might find when you remove the gasket this must all be removed and the flange must repaired it there is any rust. I was lucky. I only had small spots of surface rust. I worked the clean with a dremel tool and painted them with some of the better half's nail polish. I filled the holes with many coats to get a smooth surface. On the reinstall is when the suction cups and the rope come in to play. I feed the rope into the gasket. I had a helper at this point. I pushed on the window from the outside while the better half pulled the rope and watched the gasket to seat.
Easy diy. If you change your own oil. I believe you can do this. All the glass shops in my area wanted over a hundred bucks to remove and reinstall.
I let the gasket sit in the hot sun for a few days. Got a hose and checked to leaks. No leaks so I didnt bother with the mb sealant the factory applied.
good luck
cooty

Hatterasguy 12-28-2004 09:34 PM

This does seem like a pretty simple job, I am just worried that I don't find to much rust. I just want to stop it for now, if I keep the car in a few years when I have more money I will get a shop to cut the rust out and fab up new metal. I also will be putting the glass from my parts car in. It is in better shape, I only need to reuse the trim.

I am using an OE seal, aftermarket ones are crap. I have to redo my trunk seal because I used a crap aftermarket one.


rwthomas1 thanks for the part number I will be going to the dealer tomarrow to get it. Do you remeber about what it cost?

rwthomas1 12-28-2004 11:53 PM

Hatterasguy,
IIRC, the MB sealant is @$14.....






RT


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