Sunroof seals - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Bruce Bonds · #1 12-28-2004, 08:32 PM

Tomorrow I get the 300D from the body shop with a new paint job.

I removed all trim before I took it in and now I get to replace it all. I removed the sunroof and had it painted separately. Easy to remove thanks to boostnbenz's DIY section. I have new seals for the roof but after reading the threads, I am a little worried

about getting the new front seal in place. Has anyone done this job lately? Should I remove the wind deflector to make it easier to insert the seal? Is it OK to slick it down with WD-40 or should I use soap? Any comments will be appreciated.

psfred · #2 12-28-2004, 10:54 PM

Use soap, and you will probably need to make a driver to tap the corners in, that is the worst part.

Peter

lorenztl · #3 12-28-2004, 11:36 PM

Have you pictures for us to see before, stripped of chrome and after with new paint!!!!!!
Would be great to see your photos. What is the cost of paint job?

Bruce Bonds · #4 12-29-2004, 01:45 AM

A friend recommended the local Maaco. They are going to paint it for $400.00 plus $250.00 in body work for a dented fender, total 650.00. I realize that this is a cheap way to go but I couldn't see spending $2000 (one estimate) to paint a car that cost $1800. I am changing from Light Ivory (623) to Champagne Metallic (473). Maaco had the MB color codes and mixed a sample for me to see. I practiced taking off trim at the Pull-A-Part and got new fasteners and clips from Perf.Parts. I figured the more I did the better job Maaco will do. I also removed tail lights, mirrors, cowl covers, wipers, washers, grill, bumpers, rocker molding, side molding, emblems, and hd. light surrounds. The hardest trim to deal with is the gutter trim above the doors. I cleaned all the rubber with peanut oil and painted the plastic pieces semi-flat black. I guess I'll see it tomorrow. I am hoping for at least a 20 footer.

MB paint color codes

lorenztl · #5 12-29-2004, 11:48 AM

That's a great deal to have your Mercedes painted. Changing color too. Did Maaco paint inside doors under hood etc. I checked the Maaco site and indicates metalic clear coat colors are up to $1000 or more. I just purchased an 85 300D and needs painting badly. You've already given me inspiration ours repainted but like you don't want to spend more than $600-$800 on an $1800 auto. I think ours is either desert red or cabernet red. I would like a bit brighter red. I think I'll begin removing roof trim first. Please post pictures of your MB.
Thanks Tom

Bruce Bonds · #6 12-29-2004, 01:28 PM

Lorenztl, unfortunately this price does not include inside doors or engine bay. Maaco said $100 per door so I declined. If you go to Maaco, ask about specials. They are always having a half price special on one of their services. Their pricing strategy reminds me of a mattress store. Anyway, I will report back when I get the car. I hope I can remember where all the attachments go.

rmmagow · #7 12-30-2004, 12:49 PM

Bruce,
How much of a PITA was removing the trim pieces from near the bottom and on the doors? Did you have to worry about the clips or are they easily replaced? I've got a nice running but supremely ugly 300D sedan and have thought of doing exactly what you did, the Macco run. They did a good job on an old Pontiac for me a few years back.

TIA

phidauex · #8 12-30-2004, 01:14 PM

I'm looking forward to pictures!

The worst part about my TD is its paint job (very faded and scratched original silver) and I'm trying to decide if it would be better to have tired original paint, or new cheap paint.

I've heard Maaco's tend to vary a lot from shop to shop, but I want to see how your's turns out, for under 1000$ it could be the way to go for me as well...

peace,
sam

lietuviai · #9 12-30-2004, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce Bonds

... The hardest trim to deal with is the gutter trim above the doors.

I found a section in the FSM that shows how to remove that trim. I've removed them without knowing exactly how to do it before using a an old plastic screw driver handle and mallet to know them off and the same tool to put them back on.

Bruce Bonds · #10 12-30-2004, 09:25 PM

The 123 has two types of side molding: the upper molding with the chrome strip and the wider lower molding. Described separately below.

1. The upper molding uses the round red button clips. Don't plan to reuse these clips. Perf. Products sells them for $.40 ea. You will need 58 red button clips. To remove the trim, I used a cheap steak knife and slid it under the trim close to a clip from the bottom side and pry outward. That way if you notch the trim it will be on the less visible under side. You'll see that the rubber is thicker on the bottom side also. The male part pops out and the red button usually stays in the car for you to remove later with needle nose pliers. This level of trim goes around the back and has a screw fastener just above the tail light. The matching piece that goes across the trunk lid is fastened by about 5 screws. All screws are in the trunk.

2. The lower molding (rocker molding) comes off easier. Leave these clips on the car when it is painted. The clips are white plastic and all of mine stayed on the car and will be used again. I had some new ones on hand in case I broke some. The long door pieces have a bolt on the rear end and a metal spring clip on the front end. The bolt is accessible from inside the door. After removing the nut just hook your fingers under the molding and pull outwards. The molding pops loose from the clips.

3. The gutter trim is pinched on and requires the most care and patience. The top rubber part should not be separated from the aluminum pinch part. Start by removing three screws along the windshield. Use two thin flathead screwdrivers to squeeze in and lift up with out bending the aluminum. Leapfrog the screwdrivers about two inches at a time. When you have this long piece off, you can easily remove the plastic "ear" that's about 15 inches long and has three reuseable clips. It will be dirty and faded. Wash it and paint it semi-flat black. To remove the funny looking swirl piece, carefully pry out the piece that is painted. Start with the narrow front end and separate it toward the rear. Once this small painted piece is off, you will see two screws. I had these pieces painted separately.

4. Take off the bumpers (very simple) and you will see how to to remove all the bumper rubber. I used floor ramps so I had a little more room to work. The grill, headlight surrounds, and turn signals are easy. I took the interior triangles off the mirrors and removed the mirrors (3 screws) after driving to the shop. I removed the (under) tail light trim and all but two ea. of the screws that hold the tail lights. At the shop I did not unplug the tail lights; just unscrewed them and laid them in the trunk.

5. Wipers are easy and the air intake grilles can be removed without damaging the rivets, if you are careful. Punch the square peg down and through the rivet. There are eight rivets. Lift out the grilles and gather your pegs for reuse. However, Perf. Products has the rivets for $.50 ea.

6. 300D and TURBODIESEL emblems. These are very hard to remove without bending. 300D has three male clips that mate with three tiny rubber button clips in holes. TURBODIESEL has four. The rubber buttons are $1.00 ea. at the dealer. I removed my emblems by sliding a length of safety wire under next to the male clip and carefully pulling back. Pull on each clip a little at a time moving from one to the other. If you pull the first one out completely it will surely bend the piece. Fortunately, the MB star emblem in the center bolts on.

Note: After removing the grille, remember to make sure your hood pull tongue is out of the way when you slam the hood down or you will find it in pieces under the car.

This is more info. than you asked for but maybe it will help someone.

Bruce Bonds · #11 01-06-2005, 12:56 PM

I am very happy with the Maaco body work and paint job. We will see how long it looks this well. I am not able to post pics at this time. I have them on CD but the system tells me the file is too large to attach. I'll attach some to an email to those interested.

phidauex · #12 01-06-2005, 05:27 PM

Hi Bruce,

If you want to email me some pictures, to ley at cowboysofjustice dot com, I'll be happy to shrink them to a postable size and post them. I'm interested in seeing their work, since this is a job I'm considering doing this spring.

Peace,
Sam

phidauex · #13 01-06-2005, 08:06 PM

Here are the photos Bruce sent me of his job. Looks pretty good! I think its worth removing the trim... The car looks like a mustang without its trim, but I think it resulted in a better paint job.

peace,
sam

Bruce Bonds · #14 01-08-2005, 10:29 AM

Sam, thanks for posting the pics.
Engatwork, are you able to change the title of a thread? A more appropriate title is "Trim Removal For Painting W123" Vs "Sunroof Seals." I tried to change it with an edit but was denied. Also Jim, sorry about the panic call to your home on New Year's Eve. I finally gave up on the new front seal and put the old one back in the channel. I will go at it again when I need punishment. All who have attempted to replace the front seal on a 123 sunroof will understand.

george_hannah · #15 01-08-2005, 10:48 AM

The car really looks nice for the money spent. When you take the time to remove the trim it looks that much better.

-George