Ok, that looks like a good tool. I think I'll pull the radiator to get a little room for my small impact wrench. Together I might be able to get these guys out.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Have you used a spray penatrant?

May help.

Just recently did this on someone else's car, they came out fine.

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83 SD

84 CD

Allen Sockets tend to have rounded ends on them that unfotunately make it easier to strip Allen Head Bolts. In the First Pic you see a new one and in the 2nd Pic you see the type you want that has a flat end on it.

If the don't come with a flat end grind (grind a little and dip in water so overheating does not alter the heat treatment) or file them flat.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Some things I have found to work is, first thoroughly clean out the bolt's head.

Use a good quality Allen socket.

Once the socket is inserted all the way into the head (tap it in) take the breaker bar for the socket drive size, and hit in hard and abruptly by the palm of your hand.
The Allen almost always breaks free.

Instead of the hand, a small 3/8" butterfly or impact air wrench can be used.

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79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold

I feel your pain. I just recently had to drill out all 6 of the bolt heads. Nothing left to grab onto for any tools, just little mounds of rust.

Heating didn't work, smacking them out with a cold steel chisel didn't work, though I was able to turn a few of the doing that. In the end, they all had to be drilled

I disagree with the advice earlier in the thread about using an air hammer. You can do a lot of collateral damage to the pulley doing that

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

A good quality (one that is not brittle and prone to snapping) Torx driver bit that is slightly bigger the stripped Allen head, pounded in with a hammer for an interference fit worked every time I've used it.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Oh man, you guys are really inspiring. I tried penetrant, a 3/8" air impact driver. My sockets are flat tipped and mic in on the tight side. No dice. One is rounded out, the others are plain stuck. I pounded in the Allen socket and it does hold but the impact driver doesn't have enough torque. My good IR Ti impact wrench won't clear the condenser. Radiator is out.

The car spent time in Indiana. It is pretty rusty. Drilling or die grinder cutoff wheel might be in order. Maybe the impact trick but I doubt this will work without shearing off the heads. I'm not sure I have a drill that will fit in there...did you use a right angle?

I'm on the fence. The car has 200K on it now and the drip is very slow. I may just button it up and call it a day. I have this vision of damaging the balancer or the crank in the process.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I have not done this job before so I don't know. But, can the whole Crankshaft Dampner with the Pulley attached come off as an assembly?

Or is the probem with doing that, that there is a problem with the Puller?

Meaning Maybe there is another Puller you can use.

Also there is 1/2" Drive Angle Head Impact Wrenches that are similar in shape to a Ratchet Wrench. If you use one be sure to brace your Hands and Arms as they transmit a lot more torqe than the regular Impact Wrench does.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

With the pulley bolts in place, attaching a puller is problematic. So is getting the crankshaft bolt loose. (The latter issue can be overcome by holding the flywheel.)

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

One that has air tools knows a 1/2" or 3/4" drive impact could do harm, even if on the lowest setting.
However a 3/8" drive butterfly or impact on low is a different story.
There are also 1/4" drive impacts as well.

Its the sudden/abrupt force that can break the Allen head free whereas a slow deliberate force can cause the socket to strip inside the bolt. This is especially true when a poor quality socket or a worn socket is used.

__________________

79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold

I tried a 3/8" impact gun. No dice. It just pounded away as my compressor buzzed. My 1/2" gun won't fit between the condenser and pulley. Now that beast may snap off the heads.

I started thinking about diesel 911 comment on another puller. In theory I may be able to get two pulley bolts out and use a tool like this to pull the whole mess together.

diy balancer puller

I just PB blasted the screws and balancer. I'd been using liquid Wrench before. I'll think about it overnight. I guess if I use the hand impact trick on my long breaker bar the worst that'll happen is I'll snap the heads off. If I round them out I'll drill. I'm stubborn. My dad came by and pleaded with me to just put it all back together and enjoy the car as it is...with drip. I can't do that.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Guys! Great news!

I sprayed everything down with PB blaster last night. I read on the can to tap the screw and add more PB later. This morning I inserted the socket, tapped it lightly with a ball peen. Then I thought hey let's just put a long handle ratchet on it and give it a whack with my palm. It broke free!!! Yes!!!

I had a 24" lever and another long handle ratchet holding the 27mm crank bolt on the frame of the car.

The screw had surface rust. But the threads were clean. As some of you said, the cap had some rust inside that I didn't clean out on the first pass with a screwdriver. PB really softened up the rust in the cap. Once it was clear I got a good bite.

Hope I have good luck with the other five. Including the rounded one.

Hey once again thanks for the inspiration. I'm not out of the woods. After I get the balancer free I can picture myself struggling to get that steel seal ring off the crank.

Thanks again!

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I got it I got it!!!!!!

5 bolts came loose except for the one I rounded out. Tried a torx, no luck.

then I pounded a 12mm Craftsman twelve point socket around it. Here is the image. It came out.

Thank you all for backing me up. As I always say here. It's like have a hundred pros looking over my shoulder giving me tips. I almost look like I'm good at this stuff !!!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/ykobayashi-albums-crank-bolt-extractor-picture4694-wooooooyaaaaaahhhhhh.jpg

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Well done.

I used the special tool recommended by whunter to remove that spacer ring, took seconds.

Here it is in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHUa0pxepMA

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83 SD

84 CD

For the next stage do this =>

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing Front Crankshaft Seal with "Special Tool"

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!