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  #1  
Old 01-14-2005, 02:23 AM
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Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY

I will edit in the DIY later, to late tonight.
Here are the pictures.

Attached Thumbnails
Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_2.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_3.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_4.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_5.jpg  

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  #2  
Old 01-14-2005, 02:25 AM
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Thumbs up Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY

More pictures.
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Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_6.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_7.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2005, 02:31 AM
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Wow, looks like you got your moneys worth out of those, were they transmitting alot of sound through the chassis?
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2005, 02:13 PM
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I found a neat use for mine when I recently replaced the subframe bushings.

They make a neat jack pad. Remove the steel cradle and insert a large bolt through the center of the bushing and you have a nice "padded" cradle.
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2005, 05:35 PM
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Did mine this morning, they did not look as bad as those shown above, but the inner metal tube was separating from the rubber, and at the outer edge the main meat of the mount was pulling away from the edge.

Observations on the job:
  • One of the captive nuts in the rear foot well that secure the two bolts tore loose, a pain.
  • Removed the old mounts by placing a socket above them and jacking on the subframe, worked well.
  • Getting the new mounts in was very difficult, and they are not all the way in now. Used a bottle jack and plate, I could lift the side of the car but they still wouldn't seat all the way. Used an all-thread/nut/plate installer, still wouldn't seat all the way. I've got these things lubed up like you wouldn't believe, they still didn't want to go all the way in.
  • Getting the main bolt to start was a bit of a pain. Ended up using a bottle jack with a small socket on the top to press the bolt into place while I turned it with a wrench. Once the threads started I was able to use a socket on it. Torqued it all the way home and the edges of the mount are still above the edge of the cup, it's basically just preloaded the center of the mount. This can't be good for it, but what else can I do?

I figure I'll drive around a bit more and see if the mounts seat the rest of the way. The rear end is certainly improved, and feels less "squishy" than it did.

Kevin
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2005, 07:55 PM
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I am wondering

I am still wondering if my rear subframe bushings need replacing. How did you know yours did?
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  #7  
Old 02-05-2005, 07:59 PM
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From what I have read it's an age/mileage thing - they all need them done by the time they're 20 years old and have over 150,000 miles.

Symptoms were a rear end that felt like it squirmed when changing lanes on the freeway.

Kevin
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2005, 12:00 AM
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Thumbs up Answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCampbell
Did mine this morning, they did not look as bad as those shown above, but the inner metal tube was separating from the rubber, and at the outer edge the main meat of the mount was pulling away from the edge.

Observations on the job:
  • One of the captive nuts in the rear foot well that secure the two bolts tore loose, a pain.
  • Removed the old mounts by placing a socket above them and jacking on the subframe, worked well.
  • Getting the new mounts in was very difficult, and they are not all the way in now. Used a bottle jack and plate, I could lift the side of the car but they still wouldn't seat all the way. Used an all-thread/nut/plate installer, still wouldn't seat all the way. I've got these things lubed up like you wouldn't believe, they still didn't want to go all the way in.
  • Getting the main bolt to start was a bit of a pain. Ended up using a bottle jack with a small socket on the top to press the bolt into place while I turned it with a wrench. Once the threads started I was able to use a socket on it. Torqued it all the way home and the edges of the mount are still above the edge of the cup, it's basically just preloaded the center of the mount. This can't be good for it, but what else can I do?

I figure I'll drive around a bit more and see if the mounts seat the rest of the way. The rear end is certainly improved, and feels less "squishy" than it did.

Kevin
Put 2X4 between body and sub frame, allow the bushing center to float free.
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2005, 10:16 AM
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Sorry Roy, don't quite follow. Use a 2x4 to limit the subframe movement and then jack against the exposed bushing face with the floor jack?

It also occurs to me that it probably doesn't help that it was only in the low 40s yesterday, I wonder how much the sheet metal of the cup on the subframe expands with heat?

Kevin
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2005, 01:57 PM
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A picture

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCampbell
Sorry Roy, don't quite follow. Use a 2x4 to limit the subframe movement and then jack against the exposed bushing face with the floor jack?

It also occurs to me that it probably doesn't help that it was only in the low 40s yesterday, I wonder how much the sheet metal of the cup on the subframe expands with heat?

Kevin
to help you.
Attached Thumbnails
Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-rear-sub-frame-bushings-w126-1985-300sd-diy.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 02-06-2005 at 02:06 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2005, 04:57 PM
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Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Kevin
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2009, 11:42 AM
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Measurement Request - Two numbers

I have a request- Does anyone have a dismounted W126 rear subframe lying around? I was wondering if someone could please take a pair of measurements for me if they do.

I'm going to replace the rear subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings on my 1984 300SD, and I'm going to make 3 bushing tools to do so, imitating Mercedes special tools 126 589 00 33 00 and 126 589 01 33 00 for the rear subframe pusher/puller and 116 589 13 43 00 for the trailing arm bushings. I can design my trailing arm bushing tool with a trailing arm johnhef has sitting around, and I can make the subframe bushing pusher using numbers I get off the new bushings I have sitting next to me.

To make the puller, I need to know the diameter of the hole in the rear subframe that the large bolt goes through (with an estimate of the tolerance of your number if possible). I also need the approximate thickness of the rear subframe. I marked both of the dimensions I need in the attached picture.

Obviously I have this hole in my car, it's just that it's my only mode of transportation, and I'm trying to avoid having to drop the rear subframe just to make a measurement, then reattaching it only to need to drop it again to do the actual job.

Thanks in advance, if you guys get me numbers I'll post pictures of my designs and the finished pieces!
Attached Thumbnails
Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-rear-subframe-bushing-tools.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bushing-puller-marked.jpg  

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