Okay, so the primer pump should be re-tightened so that the leaking stops? Even then should there be a frothy feel to the fuel primer pump or is that normal?

The pull starting issue is difficult. The location of the car is in a hilly area and it's an urban area. There really isn't a 3-5 mile area of non traffic laden road nearby to pull the car along. There is a long stretch of uphill/downhill freeway several miles away which could be an option in the early morning or evening to avoid traffic. Would a 2 wheel car trailer work for this application?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

diametricalbenz If I’m correct there will be a frothy feel because of the air in the system
Pull starting with the trailer might be a bad idea because some on will have to be in the car to operate the clutch and stick
No offence to Janet but she may not have tightened the primer pump enough. Try unscrewing it to see if it’s cross-threaded first. Then if it’s not cross-threaded retighten the fuel primer use a flash light to check for leaks
whunter tell me if I’m wrong
I’d loosen number one to let the air out when priming





Janet get a battery charger from wally world or some were so you can put a charge on that battery instead of buying new batteries

when I would push repeatedly on the primer pump, there were always drips of fuel. I put a rag under it, in fact. Not much, but I would wipe it dry and it would be wet again after 5 or 6 pumps.

and , yes, that is what the new primer pump looks like. The old one had a white plastic circular cap that could be secured by turning it to the right (I think). I still have it. when it was turned, it could become secure. this one does not have that option. the old one didn't leak, and I don't notice a big difference in the pressure from the first one to this one.

And, of course, it didn't start. YET

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Janet
1979 240 D China Red SOLD
1973 GMC Green Service Truck w/ lift

diametricalbenz, a trailer will work fine for a pull start. Use it to haul the car out of town. Then use a tow strap.

First, I'd pull the hand pump to make positively sure the sealing surfaces are clean. Reinstall, then check upstream of the hand pump and clear primary filter to make sure there isn't a kink in the rubber line.

Then, if we're still refusing to pull start:
1. Hand pump and watch the clear primary filter. If fuel is moving then disconnect the secondary filter to fuel tank rubber line where it connects to the underbody metal line and stick into an old soup can (less messy than loosening the secondary filter bleed bolt). At this point in the piddling there is probably a lot of air in the system. You want to pump at least a quart of fuel into the can, a pump per second and tapping the injector pump side and metal injector lines with a wrench. The start of the quart is after a steady stream of fuel is going into the can, and starts again if a bubble comes out. Expect hours of pumping.
2. If fuel is not moving through the primary filter then either the hand pump needs some priming or there's an obstruction upstream of the hand pump. Prime the hand pump by disconnecting the rubber line upstream of the primary filter at the underbody metal line, then hold the rubber line end up and get fuel into the line with a funnel while slowly hand pumping. Then, as long as the line's disconnected, blow air backwards into the fuel tank. There's got to be a bicycle air pump or mattress inflator around nearby if you don't have a 12V compressor. Somebody with good ears will hear it gurgle at the fuel tank fill neck. One gurgle is enough for now.
3. You can loosen the injector lines (No. 1 cylinder first) or injector pump bleed screw (if there) if you want, but tapping the injector pump side and injector lines will work just as fine. The injector overflow tubes will balance out at least two injectors. That's enough to get the engine to fire, providing the battery's up to snuff, the starter hasn't been wrecked, the ambient air temperature is high enough, and the engine's getting air (but that's the cart before the horse again). You've got to get the fuel moving to push the air out first and foremost. Hand pump or tow start, not the car's starter.

Janet, over the last three months I've said all I can say for the fuel system. Fuel, air, and heat is all a diesel needs. Fix one at a time. I'll be watching, and I'll pipe up when you get back to the glow plug system with a multimeter in hand. Hopefully you'll have the CD from Phil by then.

I learned a new number this morning: 25,000. The average amount of diesel that a farmer in eastern ND goes through in a year. That's a lot of dieseling.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

Say, Tangent,
Just because I'm a chick , doesn't mean I can't screw the thing in tight enough. In fact, a guy who came by to borrow some other tools and lumber, put it in .

Seriously, no offense taken.

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Janet
1979 240 D China Red SOLD
1973 GMC Green Service Truck w/ lift

[QUOTE=dabenz]diametricalbenz, a trailer will work fine for a pull start. Use it to haul the car out of town. Then use a tow strap.

First, I'd pull the hand pump to make positively sure the sealing surfaces are clean.

People have different ideas about the word clean. I showed Hughie the link and he mentioned removing the extra seal, but I had all the rags in my hand, so that may be a part of the deal. diametricalbenz is coming over tomorrow, so I'll take on the "cleaning". I'm a cleaning fool. Thanks, and thanks for reminding me about the cd. I hadn't ordered it, but just did.

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Janet
1979 240 D China Red SOLD
1973 GMC Green Service Truck w/ lift

I was going to order the CD, but I can't really afford that much right now. Does anyone have any other ideas for a good reference book/cd?

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Janet
1979 240 D China Red SOLD
1973 GMC Green Service Truck w/ lift

One more person looked at the car yesterday. He thinks the problem is that the timing chain "jumped". I read some other posts on timing chains today.

In one, the person said that if the compression was low, there would be black smoke. Mine is white.
There were others about stretched or old chains, etc. Is this something I can look at, and see if it is indeed off, loose, broken, jumped?

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Janet
1979 240 D China Red SOLD
1973 GMC Green Service Truck w/ lift

Not to be a bearer of bad news but just finnished my 80 240D rebuild this past week. Symptoms were pretty much exactly as you describe and turned out to be a hole in one piston and a deep grove in one cylinder requiring a rebuild of the lower end. Now she starts easy even in colder weather and has virtually no smoke. Hopefully I'm wrong but........

As for checking chain stretch: Remove valve cover and turn engine over by hand (ALWAYS CLOCKWISE!) until you line up the cam timing marks which are on the first cam tower, right side as you are facing from the front of the car. You will then read the timing marks on the crankshaft balancer. What I have been told is anything less than 7 degrees is ok, more the timing chain needs replacement. This will also let you know, if it is grossly off from TDC (0 Degrees) if the chain has jumped. Good luck!

Online Factory W123 Manual http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/

jc2124,

Never pull a car to try to roll start it. Always push the car. That way you won't run into the tow vehicle if it starts quiclky. Better yet is to tow it to a long hill and roll down the hill and release the clutch with transmission in 3rd gear when you get to about 30 MPH.

Be careful. Steering and brakes may not function properly when the engine is not running.

If the timing chain jumped one tooth, the pistons hit the valves and usually break the cam towers. This is the best condition because it usually

prevents breaking the pistons or bending the valves. Remove the valve cover and check for the cam being loose because towers are broken. This condition may prevent unburned fuel from getting into the exhaust because the valves are not opening.

P E H

Janet's location is on a hill and it can be pushed to the crest of the hill to coast down but it's a one shot deal. At this point, I don't believe that we're sure that the engine is capable of firing. Therefore pulling, despite two distinct methods will likely have to be tried later. Her truck, I believe doesn't have tow hitch (for the trailer which would have to be rented) but it was dark when I arrived and it was obscured by another car.

When we briefly attempted to crank the engine friday the engine was dumping a lot of vaporized oil but no detectable diesel from the crank case vent. Would this be a sign of the timing chain jumping because the valves are not closing properly? Even then, I would like to note that there weren't any mechanical noises or rattles when starting if that helps.

Janet, did you get my PM yesterday ? How's your schedule for today?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

diametricalbenz,

I the timing chain slipped and the cam towers are broken, the valves springs keep the valves closed because when the cam pushes on the cam follower, the cam lifts up.

Thus its not a problem with the valves not closing, they never open or only open partially.

P E H

arpy15
Did your car run one day and not run later in the same day? That's what happened to mine. Not ruling out the rebuild or a new engine totally, but I just don't think that's it.

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Janet
1979 240 D China Red SOLD
1973 GMC Green Service Truck w/ lift

Janet,
I bought the car, registered and drove it that night to work then home the next morning. I then went to the local Sam's Club to have tires put on and when I pulled in the parking lot she began smoking (White smoke) and running rough. To start it up after looking over the tires at Sam's was quite a chore taking probably around 5 minutes. On the drive home (Less than 4 miles) she quit running 2-3 times and had barely enough power to make it up a very small hill near the house. After leaving it sit and cool down it wouldn't start even though I had plugged in the block heater. I had some oil in the anti freeze and oil was leaking out around the valve cover oil fill (Indication of blow-by which is very bad in a diesel that relies on compression for ignition!) which led me to believe there was a blown head gasket. After removing the head I found the hole in the piston and the severely scored cylinder liner! After that I didn't even need to take it for the next logical step: a compression check. Now, after the rebuild, she runs great! Even though it is still a little chilly here she starts first time and runs smooth! Found an engine close by for $800 but didn't want to inherit someone elses problem so I did the rebuild. Best $1000 I have ever spent! Good luck!