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  #16  
Old 01-23-2005, 06:26 PM
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First of all, thanks a lot for your information.

I did it today on my 98 300TD. I didn't want to reach under the manifold to disconnect the other end of the fuel supply line so I removed the bolt and hold down plate, popped it out and stuck in a cork of the correct diameter with a hole drilled down the center and a 1/4" double nylon barb shoved into it. That was easier than I expected and it worked fine. The rest of the set up was as you so well described.

Unfortunately even after the purge the car still runs rough and shakes, only at idle, and almost only when in Park or Neutral, rarely in Drive. If it were a gas engine I would think that there is a vacuum leak but I don't even know if these cars have vacuum lines.

Anyone reccomend a good mechanic on the peninsula (SF bay area?) I get the feeling that there are so few of these around that most mechanics are not familiar with them. And don't get me started on Autobahn motors, the local dealer!

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  #17  
Old 01-23-2005, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allthumbs
First of all, thanks a lot for your information.

I did it today on my 98 300TD. I didn't want to reach under the manifold to disconnect the other end of the fuel supply line so I removed the bolt and hold down plate, popped it out and stuck in a cork of the correct diameter with a hole drilled down the center and a 1/4" double nylon barb shoved into it. That was easier than I expected and it worked fine. The rest of the set up was as you so well described.

Unfortunately even after the purge the car still runs rough and shakes, only at idle, and almost only when in Park or Neutral, rarely in Drive. If it were a gas engine I would think that there is a vacuum leak but I don't even know if these cars have vacuum lines.

Anyone reccomend a good mechanic on the peninsula (SF bay area?) I get the feeling that there are so few of these around that most mechanics are not familiar with them. And don't get me started on Autobahn motors, the local dealer!
I think Gilly has mentioned to me that it will smooth out if you adjust the injection pump. I believe his words were "Time the injection pump". Also, another thing is that the IP may be clean but maybe the injectors have a problem. Maybe you could take them out and the prechambers for a cleaning.
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2005, 12:53 AM
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You might want to watch the fuel lines for air bubbles. I learned that most of those lines are under a vacuum and may not weep but might suck air. A laser pointer directed at the lines makes them light up like a neon sign.

Good job with the purge.
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Last edited by crmont; 01-14-2007 at 02:57 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2005, 08:15 PM
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Well I must say thanks for the procedure, and taking the time to do the pics and post. I find that even though I posted the glowplug change procedure a long time ago, I still get thank you emails from owners who used it - and you'll probably find the same thing.

I must also say that I know why you tried the purge! How many miles on that badboy? Mine is nowhere near as knocky.
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2005, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allthumbs
Unfortunately even after the purge the car still runs rough and shakes, only at idle, and almost only when in Park or Neutral, rarely in Drive. If it were a gas engine I would think that there is a vacuum leak but I don't even know if these cars have vacuum lines.

Anyone reccomend a good mechanic on the peninsula (SF bay area?) I get the feeling that there are so few of these around that most mechanics are not familiar with them. And don't get me started on Autobahn motors, the local dealer!

Have you gone to your local autozone or advance auto and had your codes scanned? They will do it for free. Sounds like you could have a faulty MAF sensor. They went bad in both of ours, and a stumbling idle and check engine light soon after were the symptoms. Just a thought.
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  #21  
Old 01-24-2005, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightMan
Have you gone to your local autozone or advance auto and had your codes scanned? They will do it for free. Sounds like you could have a faulty MAF sensor. They went bad in both of ours, and a stumbling idle and check engine light soon after were the symptoms. Just a thought.
I had a 99 C280 and when the MAF went, it tripped a light. Scanned code and it said that (V6) both banks were lean. Asked around and found it was the MAF.

BTW here is a MAF Alternative
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91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
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03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
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  #22  
Old 01-24-2005, 09:39 PM
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Yeah I should do that. The service light has not come on but I have not checked the codes. It is much smoother and no longer smokes but still nails at an idle. I have a local independent MB shop (******** eugene OR) who really are good about parts. The window regulator was $82 and I had it the same day.

You know what's funny; when I had the fuel leak I had no nailing. Also when there was air in the system from when I was experimenting with the hoses, the nailing went away for about 10 seconds. Also the engine is quiet as a mouse when it is cold. There is an obvious flutter sound that must have somthing to do with warming up the engine. As soon as that goes away the nailing starts. The map sensor makes alot of sense. (mas, maf or map?)
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Last edited by crmont; 01-24-2005 at 10:12 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2005, 09:42 PM
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I don't think it will be MAP because in GM terms, it is a Manifold Air Pressure Sensor that is used for the speed density systems.

If the MAF or MAS, whiever you call it is bad, it should throw a code.
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2005, 09:50 PM
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I have an f350 that took about 4 months to light up the service light for the MAS. It depends on the range of the failure. It read 14 kpa all the time and I think somthing like 4 kpa is atmospheric psi at sea level. (somthing like that) So the turbo inlet damper kept closing down when I stood in the gas. (even with both feet) Then the code was related to low boost pressure not MAS/MAP failure.

Edit; OOPS I got that backwards 4kpa vs.14kpa. You get it.
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  #25  
Old 01-24-2005, 09:54 PM
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Where the heck is the MAP MAS MAF anyway?
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  #26  
Old 01-24-2005, 10:10 PM
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Never mind. I got off my butt and looked. I don't see a "tube" unless were talking about the tube to the manifold itself.
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  #27  
Old 01-25-2005, 12:09 PM
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220 bucks for a MB MAP sensor.

Edit; Ok so the MAS sensor is located near the air filter and the MAF is up by the intake manafold mounted on the firewall right?
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Last edited by crmont; 01-25-2005 at 12:24 PM.
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  #28  
Old 01-25-2005, 12:28 PM
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Yeah, that's about right. You could try the Pierburg unit that people are using on VW's for around $100. But as far as I know, nobody has yet verified that it works on the E300.

MB calls it an Air Mass Meter (AMM). Almost everyone else calls it a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS or MAF). A manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) performs a different function, and yes an E300 TurboDiesel has one. It is plugged into the intake pipe just below the EGR valve.
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  #29  
Old 01-25-2005, 12:29 PM
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crmont - I just saw your edited question. MAS and MAF mean the same thing. It is the sensor the is plugged into the short section of pipe just after the air filter. If you buy it from MB, it comes with the pipe. If you buy the aftermarket solution, you just get the sensor which is held into the pipe with two ResisTorx screws.
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  #30  
Old 01-25-2005, 01:18 PM
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Have you had an experience where one of the two have failed and not produced a code? Perhaps the sensor is giving false readings but not out of range?

I'm trying to identify why my engine seems to nail at an idle. It goes through varying degrees of nailing. Sometimes it is very quiet, sometimes not. One thing is always consistent; It does not nail when the motor is cold.

So far my thoughts are;
MAS sensor
MAP sensor
resonance flaps
air in the fuel lines

This may be coincidental but when I had the leak at the fuel solinoid switch it did not seem to nail. It would stumble and die at first start attempt but no nailing.

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