do what you want but if a engine runs that low of oil and develops a knock, you got internal problems.

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'85 300 Turbo Diesel- 308K

As someone had mentioned I pulled out the oil filter today to check for metal shavings. The top of the filter had a fine layer of silver particles. I almost didn't notice it until I wiped a finger across the top of the filter. I cut it open and didn't find notice any metal in the filter media but perhaps I 've been looking in the wrong place for this knock.

On pulling the motor should the tranny and motor be pulled together?

I give up...

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79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold

That is the prescribed method in most repair manuals.

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1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold

"On pulling the motor should the tranny and motor be pulled together?"

Pull them together. The Haynes manual has a good rundown. You will need to tilt it 45 degrees so an adjustable spreader bar is a big help
I leave the tranny mount on the tranny and unbolt it from the car (two 17 mm bolts). I have mine about ready to pull, maybe tomorrow.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I have the exact same year of car with the exact same problem.

My 83 240 blew its first motor a year and a half ago, so I obtained a junkyard motor, Installed it, and it runs fine, but has a terrible knock. We tried everything and removed the head to find that the motor had been poorly rebuilt and ridge reamed, so the piston crowns were hitting the top of the liners and knocking. Anyway, since I didn't have the money to fix it, I just drove it and had no problems whatsoever. It starts and runs perfectly, just knocks. I suppose this is a testiment to the robustness of these cars. Anyway, thats a possible scenario for you to consider.

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Nick
*****
2002 Sprinter 2500 140" High Roof :

How can the pistons hit the top of the liner (ridge)?
That is why there is a ridge because nothing rubs against it, Neither piston or rings..
What ever is knocking, if it is metal that has fatigued or worn would soon fail.
Perhaps it a combustion knock?, this can last a long time with no adverse conditions..

__________________

79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold

It's been awhile since I've been able to get to this motor but now it's on the stand and the oil pan is off. The first rod bearing is wasted. The crank journal isn't too heavily damaged, no severe scratches or grooves but it is not shiny. The rod cap is also noticable darker than the others, from exposure to high heat I assume. So, is it unreasonable to attempt to clean the crank journal and install a new bearing, checked with plastigauge?

mdlwolf,

You should measure the crank journal with a very accurate micrometer and compare with the wear limits in the shop manual. Measure the journal at various points to determine the worst worn spot and how far "out of round" the journal is. THe SD cranks are nitrided so the journal may be OK.

Connecting rods ID can also stretch, so the rod ID should also be measured. It would probably be best to take the rod to an automotive machine shop to have this done. They can measure the rod with a dial indicator in a spindle to determine if the rod is beyond wear limits.

Sometimes if the rod isn't too bad, the machine shop can grind a few thousandths off the rod cap and rebore the ID of the rod. BUt it would probably cost less to get a used rod or maybe even a new one.


P E H

Before you go and pull the engine, check the diffusers on the prechambers. Pull each injector and try to wiggle the diffuser ball inside the prechamber. If they are loose, it will create what is known as "injector knock". Alan