Brian & Anthony,
Thank you both for posting up. I keep reading post after post of 603.971 owners who state that they are burning oil, much more than would be expected. The ensuing posts by all of the "regulars" on the board come back with the "bent rod/piston wallowing out the cylinder" and thus causing the oil to come around into the combustion chamber. I am not here to question the "regulars" knowledge but rather I think I have a turbo issue that is the only cause of my problem. After seeing how coated, tarred, caked, etc. the crossover pipe was along with the intake manifold, it has to be the turbo!

But I hear you on the valve cover vent tube. I will try it this week. I will cap off the rubber air intake ductwork and put the tube from the valve cover down into an oil jug. Then see what happens.

Assuming I still burn oil and the vent tube is filling the jug full of oil, what does that mean? What are the remedies for that?

I am convinced I have a good engine. It runs strong, it has acceleration and power to kick in at highway speeds. It just burns too much oil. Given that it emits a big plume of grayish smoke when I floor it and it kicks in, makes me think "turbo"........especially now that I've seen the crossover and intake manifolds. Like the sudden increase in pressure on the blades sucks oil across the seals.... and into the combustion chambers and out my tailpipe!

Thanks and please let me know your thoughts.

Either the vent tube will fill the jug with oil and the burning of oil will stop,

or,


The vent tube will not put much oil in the jug and the burning of oil will continue.

The former condition is too much blowby without oil separation.

The latter condition is too much leakage past the turbo oil seals.

Hello JMH,
603.970 turbo diesel.
Design Changes are as follows.
-Cylinder bore was increased from 87 mm to 89 mm
-Previous models had cylinder liners.
-The cylinder bore length was increased by 8 mm correspondingly decreasing the dimension from the crankshaft centerline to the
bottom of the cylinder bore.
-The oil pan is one piece without detachable sides as on some previous models.
-Oil sensor level was raised
-Modified dipstick.
-Improved head gasket with viton seal for the rear oil passage. and a silicon bead around the perimeter.
with cylinder seal metal increased from 88 mm to 90 mm.
-Improved crankcase ventilation system.
-Volume of the pre chamber was increased to 11.37 cm/3.
-Overall connecting rod length was shortened to 145 mm. (aprox 4 mm)
-Wrist pin is lubricated through two 4.5 mm bores on top.
-Oil spray nozzle was lowered.
-The piston cavity consists of a pre chamber cavity, flame channels and cutouts for the valves.
-The piston top is covered with an aluminum oxide coating.
-The piston skirt and the top land are graphite treated.
-The underside of the piston crown is sprayed with oil for cooling.
-Camshaft sprocket mounting has been modified.
-Modified valve seals.
-EDS Electronic Diesel System w/ diagnostics. Processes input signals out put to transducers and actuators.
Max engine speed 4250
Power 133 hp @4000 rpm
torque 228 lb - ft / 200 rpm
A pretty stout engine design if you ask me.......
I love Mine!
-Anthony

JMH I think your in denial. Take it from the "regulars" who know and have experienced these problems. You seem to think that its a simple cure for your problem. Believe me its not. When all is said and done I think you'll be going for a rebuild.
Tne first thing you should do instead of guessing is to take the car to a Qualified Diesel Mechanic who is familar with MB and have him tell you whats wrong.
There are also tons of info about the infamous 93-95 603 diesel online.
Don't mean to burst your bubble but prepare yourself for the worst.
Good luck