I wouldn't. I would get a boost gauge. They are not that expensiv.

I got the $17 boost pressure guage from JC Whitney. I was only planning on using it to test boost pressure, not permanently mounting it. It's kinda cheesy but it works. I guess anything that measures pressure would work for testing, as long as you're confident of the accuracy. You could use a modified tire guage in a pinch.

BEAUTIFUL WORK!!! I like this very much!!! How much modification is required and what did you use as a bezel to mount the gauges???

Also. I favor 360° gauges and it looks like at least one of them is that style. What gauges did you use and where can they be obtained???

Where did you tap into for the pyrometer???

I think just a Boost and EGT Gauge would be enough for my W116. Maybe a wood bezel could be fashioned and stained/laquered to match the other trim pieces???

Love the euro lights and bumpers...must have them someday on mine. :cool:

Thanks for the input!!! You have inspired me!!!...Bert

Sorry for the belated answer.....I missed your last response.

I got a piece of aluminum, mocked it up to fit where the ashtray was....I then centered the 3 guages on the panel...this it critical as there is just barely enough room for all 3.

Used a hole saw bored the holes...dry fit it to make sure it worked.

I did have to cut away at the plastic behind the ashtray....use a dremil cut off tool.....trust me. And don't go any deeper than needed with the tool.

I then cut a piece of textured ABS plastic and epoxied that over the aluminum. its more durible than textured paint as I see it. A zebrano panel would be aces if you have the skills.

the rest you can figure out. You need to be creative to hold panel in however.

wouldn't setting the shift lever to the drive2 keep the transmission in second gear? Wouldn't this eliminate dragging the brakes?

Danny

voltmeter?- installation?
 

Bert, if you could squeeze the voltmeter in it would be better. Much more useful than on gas cars. Mine lets me monitor the glow circuit on a regular basis as there is a 2 volt sag while plugs are on. No big deal but say you loose one glow plug the sag will be only about 1.6-1.7 volts. Also find it warns of an alternator belt thats a little too loose far before it is otherwise noticable. Ability to see total load effect on alternators output by where the meter has sagged to under load has benefits as well. The idiot light is just about useless in comparison although it is still hooked up but only warns of total malfunction basically. Come to think of it it voltmeter also monitors battery well enough to sometimes give advance warning of it's impending departure or general need for replacement. Would never have thought it was going to turn out so useful before I had one on a diesel. :) Bonehead made a beautiful installation as it looks like the cluster belongs. Only question I have if he rereads this thread is where did he aquire the abs wrinkle finish product? Even me running a normal hole saw backwards would probably ruin a piece of dash wood. There used to be a all in one holesaw that had very thin blades that is probably still available in junk tool places.Blue universal blade holder if i remember with wrinkle finish sometimes that includes about seven circular blades. With that I might have a chance to pull it off. Other thought was drill smaller gauge holes and progressivly enlarge them to required size with small drum sanders. Now just have to figure where to get a large enough piece of prefinished interior trim wood to match mine. Forum members, I wish you would please stop locking your cars as it's hard enough for me just to find them. :furious2: Wonder also if another piece of existing prefinished interior trim is large enough to meet this application so you land up with a good match? Homework time yet again? :)

Dang...this one got away from me again...........I got the textured ABS plastic from a piece of scrap I found that was the right sixe and flat. No words of wisdom there except keep you eye open A pice of countertop laminate in a dull black would work too.

Worst case textured pait will work........its just not nearly as durible.

Same here with the voltmeter. I was thinking of adding a boost gauge, a voltmeter and a 12v receptacle.

If you need a boost meter you want an ehaust Pyrometer, voltmeter is a good idea and I put one in due to a failed regulater that fried a stereo, tach..half my lights and battery by putting out 17.9VDC for periods of time.

That doesn't leave you space for a 12v recepticle on the same panel....you would need that somewhere else. but a good idea none the less.

12 V Recepticle Location
 

I'm planning to install 12V recepticles on my 300CD by drilling holes :eek: in the upper right-hand corner of the driver's-side kick panel, and the upper left-hand corner of the passenger's-side kick panel. The wiring goes to where the current cigar lighter is wired. The final step is to cap the holes with black rubber plugs.

Ham radio note: These are NOT for powering transmitters.

These are going in so that I can mount the remote control head for my Kenwood TM-D700A on the front face of the ashtray. I do not know where the boost gauge is going, I just know that it has to be really small, therefore digital.

A picture would truly be worth a thousand words. What, where is the "diaphram"? I cant figure it out through the written description. The MB shop manual doesn't show me anything that helps me either.

flat, circular snap ring that is easily removed with a pocket screwdriver

I don't have a clue. I can't find any pics showing the diaphram or the snap ring removal anywhere on this forum. I've searched for two hours, enough is enough. So, please if someone can make this procedure more clear, please do so.

I recieved no replies or help with the wastegate adjustment, so I decided to install a needle valve to regulate boost. I was easily able to set boost at 12 psi max, up from 9psi max.

recycled
 

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