When using a non-continuous timing chain, proper crimping of the masterlink is critical to safe engine operation.

A special tool is available that closes the chain and crimps the exposed ends of the link pins, but it is costly and hard to find.

I have seen some over-zealous technicians actually break teeth off the timing gear while 'peening' the link pins with a hammer. Because of this, I decided to adopt an alternate method.

A simple Automatic Center Punch, available at most hardware stores, will solve the problem. Once the link pins are pressed into place, simply center punch the ends of the link pins (repeatedly) with this device, while holding a hammer (or dolly) against the back of the master link.

The 'dimple' you create in the center of the link pin will cause its outer diameter to increase, locking it in place.

With this method, there is no chance of damaging the timing gear teeth.

I hope this information is helpful...Bert

One of our members, BrierS, has the proper tool for crimping the chain and he will rent it for a very reasonable price.

No need to risk damage to the cam sprocket or risk the master link falling off.

Brian , I am surprised at those last items you mentioned... there have been HUGE discussions of this... with at least me and LarryB telling how to do this... the primary problem with MB chains in this procedure is that the holes in the side plates are very tight... and it is hardened... so squeezing them onto the chain is usually the harder step...
But the good news is that those tight holes make any peening of the pins likely to hold just fine since there is no sidepressure to speak of ....

Any other way to peen the master link on a timing chain???

Greg, you are the fan of using the proper tool for the job.

Here is one that is available for a reasonable cost. Why not take advantage of it? Of course, I'm quite sure that you and Larry can find a way to do the job without it.

To an old blacksmith a ballpeen hammer and an anvil behind it ARE the correct tools.... LOL

there are people here who know what a forge and anvil are good for!!!
The name is Smith, Black Smith = a real job.
Been there and done that.

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Check out McRoth's (Hole in 240d piston) webpage....

http://www.emeraldisleforge.netfirms.com/

Need to drop by and hammer some steel with him.

I use a 45° carbide burr in a drill press to create a small chamfer on one side of each link. This allows the link pins to start through the holes easier.

Indeed the proper tool is best. However, most MBZ dealers do not have the right tool. In this case, the Automatic Center Punch is fast, easy and safe.

The tip is intended to be helpful in an instance where it is impractical to find the correct tool...Bert

Bert,
Those aren't over-zealous techs. They're animals. I go along with Leathermang. Peen hammers work great for this job.

Peter

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Hate to appear barbaric, but we use case-hardened curved jaw (OE) vice-grips on our MB timing chains; there is a technique to it, but if you center it properly on the link, you can set the vice-grips to where the serration hits both sides of the link pin equally, and will "mash" the sides of the link pin just like the tool does (although seems like SIR tools has a MB chain link crimper for around $200 now if memory serves). You can also center the serration on the center of the link pin and "split" it down the middle, but I prefer the "OE" look , and the center split method is harder on the vice-grips

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Any of these methods will work fine with due care. The corollary is that idiots can do damage with any of these methods also.