Glow Plug Light goes out too quickly

[openback]

Howdy, Ive been getting to know my 82 300D over the last few weeks and am still having a tough time starting the car in the morning, here in Florida, where it hasnt been below 50 in weeks. The engine turns over fine, but I have to keep the RPMs up for at least 5 minutes to hold an idle.

I replaced all Glow Plugs and Fuel Filters several days ago and nothing changed in the starting. Im thinking, based on what Ive read here about glow plugs that the problem may have something to do with the fact that the glow plug light stays lit for maybe all of 2 seconds. Every time. Thats too short, right? My relay fuse is fine, compression is strong, and I think the valves are adjusted based on how strong the motor sounds.

Any ideas out there would be appreciated?

Roy

[boneheaddoctor]

Put a voltmeter on one of the glowplugs and see if it really does drop current (and Voltage) to the plugs in accordance with the dash light.............if it does you may be heading to the local PARTS-R-US for a used glowplug controller. It should hold current for far longer than just a couple seconds.

[Brian Carlton]

The glow plug light illumination time is strictly used as a signal for the driver. The glow plugs will stay on for approximately 40 seconds from the time you turn the key to the #2 position.

Turn the key to the #2 position and wait 15 seconds. Then try and start it. If it starts immediately, then you simply need to wait a bit after the light goes out.

If it does not start, then it's time to investigate the relay and see if you are getting voltage to the plugs. Set up a voltmeter on one of the plugs and read it when the key is turned to the #2 position. No voltage= bad relay.

[openback]

Thanks for the tips.

I tested voltage to each plug and each one had 11 volts, solid. The thing is, I put the ignition in the 2nd position and had time to check each one before they went out (I tested this by myself so I had to run around to the front) which tells me that the plugs are holding current for at least 30-45 seconds.

The thing is that if there were some sort of idle adjustment I think it would take care of the problem. The car just wont hold an idle until its warm . . ..almost does, but not quite. 300 more RPMs would do it, I think.

Brian, Ive tried the 15 second wait period with the same result. What might a next step be?

Thanks, Roy

[Brian Carlton]

I reread your original post.

Please clarify.

Does the vehicle start immediately, however, you need to give it some right pedal to keep it running?

Please confirm that it does not have a "starting issue", but, what would better be descriped as a "running" issue.

There is an adjustment for the curb idle next to the injection pump.

[openback]

Yes it does start right away, if i really work the throttle and it will continue to run as long as I keep the RPMs up until it gets warm. If I put it in gear or lift my foot from the pedal, it dies every time.

Sorry for the confusion, it is more of a *running* cold problem than *starting* cold problem.

I think I found the idle screw between glow plug 3 and 4 next to the block. A long stem with a flathead end and a bolt around the base?

Thanks
Roy

[Pete Burton]

Originally Posted by openback

Yes it does start right away, if i really work the throttle and it will continue to run as long as I keep the RPMs up until it gets warm. If I put it in gear or lift my foot from the pedal, it dies every time.

Sorry for the confusion, it is more of a *running* cold problem than *starting* cold problem.

I think I found the idle screw between glow plug 3 and 4 next to the block. A long stem with a flathead end and a bolt around the base?

Thanks
Roy

NUT at the base, but that's it. Bet you need a lot less than 300 RPM too.