Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-07-2005, 09:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
Thumbs up Hard Shifting after work on car

I recently finished some work on my SDL and now the Tranny is shifting with hard shifts instead of the smooth changes previously.

Here's what I did, and yes I know some of these cannot be related to the Tranny:
- Replaced Vacuum Pump (Original flat face was working fine - I think)
- Fixed Exhaust Leak at front/rear manifold joint.
- Drained & Flushed Cooling System & replaced top & bottom hoses.
- Replaced Alternator Brushes/Regulator.
- Removed EGR Valve (previously disabled) and associated vacuum hoses.
- Cleaned out crossover pipe and installed new gaskets & seals.
- Replaced all filters (air, fuel & oil) and oil.

Anybody have any ideas??

__________________
1991 M-B 560SEL Arctic White/Grey 99,000 Miles
1987 M-B 300SDL Ivory/Palomino 229,000 Miles (sold but never forgotten)
2006 Volvo XC70 Blue/Beige
1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige
1972 Porsche 911 Viper Green/Black

Last edited by Dervman; 02-08-2005 at 07:11 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-07-2005, 10:02 PM
Geezer
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 1,316
Lack of vacuum = Hard shift

Look for the loose/leaking vacuum line or fitting, probably bumped, loosened or broken as you worked on the engine.

Follow the vacuum line from the brake booster source line ahead of the check valve, to the proportioning valve on the injection pump, back to the blue vacuum amplifier on the driver's side fender, through the switchover valve and finally down to the transmission vacuum modulator.

Low/no vacuum = higher shift pressure = harder shifts.

Best Regards,
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-08-2005, 01:32 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
Thanks Jim, I'll check out the vacuum system.
I did move a bunch of stuff around when I was removing the vacuum lines to the EGR valve solenoids.

It looks like on my SDL the small line from the vacuum pump goes to a 4-way connector and then there is a line to the proportioning valve on the injection pump, then over to the blue amplifier then the changeover switch (square top unit on bulkhead?) and then I guess to the transmission vacuum modulator. Where is the vacuum modulator located ?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-08-2005, 08:23 AM
Geezer
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 1,316
Modulator is at the end of the vacuum line!

It's on the side of transmission. You probably didn't disturb it, since you weren't under the car.

Best Regards,
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-08-2005, 10:20 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
I checked all the lines and they seemed OK except for one that broke when I flexed it - now replaced. I think the problem may be the 4-way connector above the vacuum pump. I moved the vac lines that go in/out of this connector and the shifting seems better although not quite as smooth as I remember.

Now I find I have no heat to the footwells in the car
I have to believe these things are related as it was working fine before the work I did. I'm not quite sure where to start. Defrost and side vents work OK but Centre vents seem dead also. Could low vacuum be affecting the ACC ?

I'm leaving for Florida tomorrow (driving down) and running out of time. The good wife will not appreciate cold tootsies if I can't fix it.

HELP !!!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-08-2005, 10:28 AM
Rick Miley's Avatar
Spark Free
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 3,086
Yes, the doors that direct airflow are vacuum actuated. So concentrate on tracking down all the vacuum leaks.
__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-08-2005, 10:41 AM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
Senior Benz fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hells half acre (Great Falls, Virginia)
Posts: 16,007
Any of the 3 or 4 way rubber couplers that the hose fit into without great effort should be replaced....new ones are VERY tight fit. Loose fit = vacume leaks.........
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-08-2005, 11:08 AM
Cateaux's Avatar
Patent Pending
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Baton Rouge & New Orleans, Louisiana
Posts: 207
The default position of the climate control flaps (ie, vacuum disconntected or leaking too much for the flaps to work) will blow air out of the side vents and defrost vents only. You definitely have a major vacuum leak somewhere. I wouldn't rule out the connection at the modulator valve, as a tug on that line can pull it out. A Mityvac will help you track down your vacuum leak, and is the only way to be sure that all lines hold vacuum.
__________________
1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K
2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's)
1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-08-2005, 11:52 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
Thanks Guys.
I don't have a Mitty-vac (planning on getting on while down south) so I'll just have to trace each connection by trial and error.
At least I'm fairly sure I am looking for a vacuum leak and not something else.

Worst case, I'll just have to drive REALLY FAST until I get south of the Mason-Dixon line and hopefully into the
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-08-2005, 11:56 AM
Rick Miley's Avatar
Spark Free
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 3,086
Unless you're at least 100 miles from the nearest auto parts store, you'll waste a lot more time hunting down bad connections than going to buy a MityVac NOW. My plastic model was $26 in a "Brake Bleeding Kit" at AutoZone. Every Mercedes should come with a MityVac in the glove box - there's no excuse not to have one.
__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 02-08-2005, 01:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
I agree I really need one.
Problem is every parts supplier I've contacted locally here in the frozen north wants $100+ for the privilege of me owning one
$30 sounds a whole lot better to me.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-08-2005, 02:08 PM
Rick Miley's Avatar
Spark Free
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 3,086
CarQuest has the metal version for CDN$64.95 here. It's in the lower left corner of page 21.
__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-08-2005, 06:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
That really makes me
I called CarQuest today and they told me that the MityVac was coming ON SALE next week for $124 Cdn. I asked if they had anything less expensive and was told no. Grrrrrrr
Thanks for the lead.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-08-2005, 07:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 483
I Fixed It !!!!


I found the problem. It wasn't a leak but a blockage in the flex hose from the vacuum pump to the first piece of nylon vac hose.
All is now well and Mamma's feet won't freeze on the trip south.
Many thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction - this is a GREAT site!!
__________________
1991 M-B 560SEL Arctic White/Grey 99,000 Miles
1987 M-B 300SDL Ivory/Palomino 229,000 Miles (sold but never forgotten)
2006 Volvo XC70 Blue/Beige
1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige
1972 Porsche 911 Viper Green/Black
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-08-2005, 07:23 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Thumbs up

Excellent.

Have a good and safe trip down and back.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to safely jack up a car so all four wheels are off the ground? zeronero General Information 48 03-23-2009 11:07 PM
98 E240 tranny leak and hard shifting spiral Tech Help 3 02-08-2003 12:10 AM
E500 owner in trouble! Help Help! ERASE Mercedes-Benz Performance Paddock 58 05-23-2002 01:48 PM
Stupid EGR..............(hard shifting & MAD smokezz!) Holson Adi Diesel Discussion 9 05-18-2002 01:11 AM
Hard shifting aantonic Tech Help 3 10-30-2001 10:58 AM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page