Hello- I'm wondering about MB part # 000 822 0903 which is a TEMPERATURREGLER(temperature regulator) Bosch part # 1 147 328 023

Is this a part I might want to pick up for my D just to have a spare? Supposedly the thing costs 2200 new and I tried searching Fastlane for the part but it's unavailable. Just wondering since the climate control always gives people fits and that part is available for cheap.

Also- where does one look for a set of 14" steel rims for a w123? I'm thinking I like the look of hubcaps vs. bundts. It's a more classic look. Thanks

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

The climate control unit in the late 123's is pretty darn trouble free. The 124 cars, on the other hand, is a common failing part. The most common failure items on your 123 CC system is the monovalve and the vacuum pods.

You should be able to find steel wheels and wheel covers readily in the junkyards very cheap to avoid shipping costs. The problem you will most likely have is body color on wheel covers. If you can find a set with the right color that is best. Next best is getting a good set and painting them your body color.

If you just absolutely cannot find these at all locally I have two sets of wheel covers and I'm pretty sure I can come up with a full set of good wheels. I will sell them all for a token price if you will pay shipping.

Hope this helps,

I found a set of hubcaps off eBay, they're pretty nice but missing a few clips. I'll get some new ones from Phil.
I was advised to stay away from steel wheels due to the weight, and the fact that they are stamped, not cast/turned and thusly more difficult to balance. I was told they would not help the speed or ride of the car. However, there are aluminum wheels that take hubcaps that I think I'll try. I have the part number for those. And the hubcaps are white, have to paint them metallic grey I guess. I wonder how to get the paint off without damaging the chrome.
I found a pushbutton climate control unit at the scrapyard. The little holders where the light bulbs go were splayed and melted, like something had fried in there. I took it anyway, thinking it was just the bulbs, since they were not connected to the unit itself. I was wrong- a trace on the backside of the mother PCB had fried out. I scraped off the black resin and noted that only that one trace had blown, not the adjacent ones, so I peeled the trace back to the contact points and soldered a nice thick jumper wire between them. That was the only part of the unit that I could detect damage to. These things are $578.00 new from Performance Products, and I'm sure Phil can get them for less, but they would still run big money. I wonder if this solder job will work...

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

The unit I'm running in my 300D is just as you describe. From a junkyard and the very back trace on the board was fried and N/C. I did the same and soldered a jumper and the rest of the conns and it works great.

The better units I get at the yards get re-solder, tested and then sold on ebay, the crappy ones I just fix and save for my own spares.

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

Yes, it is common on the CCU's for both the 123 and 124 to be fixed be heating the solder joints.

You can remove the original paint with paint stripper that you can get from your automotive paint supplier. The stuff is REALLY nasty however, so I would recommend doing this outdoors on a windy day or with a light wind and some help from a fan that is several feet away blowing the same direction as the wind.

The stuff is in a large spray can and works pretty fast. Be ready with plenty of rags or something and a plastic scraper that is not attacked by the stripper will prove useful.

Good luck,

As Larry said above, it's nasty smelling stuff. The board coating is a "conformal coating" to minimize circuit board damage from vibration (obviously didn't work!)

We applied to to tank electronics in the early 80's.

You can just solder through the crap though, make sure there's a fan on your solder table.

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

You need to grab that temp controller if you havn't already.

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Jim

Does this go for the ol' 126 also? Mine seems to blow hot on one side and cold on another... and it blows hot pretty much all the time.

I did read something about check valves or something behind the dash where the radio is at?

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]