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  #31  
Old 02-22-2005, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Rather than bother removing the second manifold, you could also consider tapping the manifold when you pull it. I'd tap it, install the plug, and then send it for the Jet-hot.
My parts car with good engine is a 1979 300SD.........no interior and serious rocker panel rust.....Was going to pop those when I warehouse the engine for future use, I want to put a block heater on the 300D soon anyway....just in case I need it in the future. I know the 300SD intake isn't caked with crud inside..........the 300D who knows how much crud is in it till it comes off for cleaning.

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  #32  
Old 02-22-2005, 08:56 PM
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Yeah, that sounds like a good idea, hopefully it won't be big deal that the bolt won't be ceramic coated.
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2005, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300sdlguy
Yeah, that sounds like a good idea, hopefully it won't be big deal that the bolt won't be ceramic coated.
If you tap it for 3/4-10, I can send you a socket set screw in 18-8 stainless with the EGR kit.
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  #34  
Old 02-23-2005, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
It's "instead of" for the exhaust plate. It's a much nicer and cleaner install with a socket set screw in there rather than my copper plate. It completely eliminates the clamp. No sealant required, either. Now, I have not personally tapped the cast iron myself. I'm just relaying what one other member has done. He said it was accomplished without any real issues.
Ooooo. I need to try that! I wonder if I could get a reducer, meaning a 3/4" insert that reduces to 1/4 or 1/8 NPT, to allow a backpressure gauge to be installed if desired. It would have a small plug in place normally. I intend to put my EGT in the factory pressure gauge port at cyl #1. Here are photos of my Jet-Hot treatment:

(sorry, they're slightly too large to upload past the forum's STUPIDLY small limits.)

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/OM603_exhaust/

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  #35  
Old 02-23-2005, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr
Ooooo. I need to try that! I wonder if I could get a reducer, meaning a 3/4" insert that reduces to 1/4 or 1/8 NPT, to allow a backpressure gauge to be installed if desired. It would have a small plug in place normally.
The question is whether you can first tap the manifold in 1/2" NPT. It's a bit larger than 3/4-10, so I'm not sure you can do it. If so, here are the fittings in stainless:

A reducing bushing from 1/2 NPT male to 1/4 NPT female: p/n 4464K642

A reducing bushing from 1/2 NPT male to 1/8 NPT female: p/n 4464K397

All items from McMaster-Carr. Chicago telephone number:630-833-0300.

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 02-24-2005 at 10:07 AM. Reason: data change
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  #36  
Old 02-23-2005, 04:23 PM
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Dave,

Wow, you went to the company I just referred earlier in this thread.

How much to do all that? Which coating was that? Did you take off the heat shield and reapply it?
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  #37  
Old 02-23-2005, 06:31 PM
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Cost was about $200 plus shipping for all three items. I got their Sterling coating. I will not re-apply the factory heat shield, as it was partially destroyed while taking it off, and the white insulation pretty much falls apart. I think the coating alone will simulate the heat insulating properties, although wrapping it with Thermo-Tec would reduce heat further (but not look as pretty). I intend to wrap the turbo with the Thermo-Tec kit, and also wrap the main downpipe with Thermo-Tec tape. This should significantly reduce the heat radiated into the engine and passenger compartment. I also cleaned my stock heat shields, which were coated with 20 years worth of oil, dried coolant, and grime. They cleaned up like new (photos don't do them justice) and look gorgeous now. Too bad you can't see them unless the car is on a lift, lol...!

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  #38  
Old 02-24-2005, 01:11 AM
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Hey Dave,

Yours look awesome. I decided not to go with the polished look ceramic coating. I think I will have enough "bling" with the valve cover and the air intakes that are being powder coated now. Did you notice that I left the heat shield on? Mine was relatively new, hadn't driven it much since MB replaced it, and the guy who did my coating work said that is was so well attached and encased it would not need to be removed.

I am interested in what you and Brian have come up with in deleting the EGR and adding a back pressure gauge.
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1987 300SDL Blk/Blk 4 place seating #18 head
1987 300SDL Smk Slv/Burgangy #17 head
1986 300SDL Blk Pearl/Palomino #14 head w/ 280K
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  #39  
Old 02-24-2005, 11:18 AM
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Chris, yes I saw that! It never occured to me to leave the insulation on the pipe. I would have preferred that if possible, for extra heat insulation. Oh well. The EGR delete is a done deal. There is a factory port at cyl #1 for a backpressure gauge, but I plan to use that for a permanent mounted EGT probe, leaving me with no pressure test port. So, I want to use the old EGR port as a place to hook up the pressure gauge.

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  #40  
Old 02-24-2005, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr
Chris, yes I saw that! It never occured to me to leave the insulation on the pipe. I would have preferred that if possible, for extra heat insulation. Oh well. The EGR delete is a done deal. There is a factory port at cyl #1 for a backpressure gauge, but I plan to use that for a permanent mounted EGT probe, leaving me with no pressure test port. So, I want to use the old EGR port as a place to hook up the pressure gauge.

Thats where I hooked my boost guage up to...........(the factory port thats plugged on #1 cylinder intake.)
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1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
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  #41  
Old 02-24-2005, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
Thats where I hooked my boost guage up to...........(the factory port thats plugged on #1 cylinder intake.)
Ummm, so you're measuring exhaust backpressure, instead of intake charge pressure? Those are two very different things...

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  #42  
Old 02-24-2005, 01:04 PM
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Why didn't you just have the valve cover polished rather than powder coated? (tarnishing and constant polishing?).
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  #43  
Old 02-24-2005, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr
Ummm, so you're measuring exhaust backpressure, instead of intake charge pressure? Those are two very different things...


INTAKE.....not exhaust.........there is a threaded plug on the INTAKE near #1 facint forward..............I have no such plug on my exhaust manifold.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #44  
Old 02-24-2005, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
INTAKE.....not exhaust.........there is a threaded plug on the INTAKE near #1 facint forward..............I have no such plug on my exhaust manifold.
Wooops! Sorry, I missed the 'intake' part. You must have a 617, as all the 603's have a plug by the #1 exhaust port, and there's nothing by the #1 intake port. No soup for me!

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  #45  
Old 02-24-2005, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr
Wooops! Sorry, I missed the 'intake' part. You must have a 617, as all the 603's have a plug by the #1 exhaust port, and there's nothing by the #1 intake port. No soup for me!

NO problem....I figured you had something else in mind than what I was talking about.

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1971 280SE W108
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1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
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---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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