Hello,

I plan on replacing my timing chain.

The question I have for the forum is, do i rivet the timing chain link or "C" clip/spring clip the chain together?

I have the workshop manual and they suggest using the spring "C" clip syle and not riveted, also please see ................

http://www.iwis.com/en/steuer/abmessungen.php

IWIS[chain manufacturer] suggest it can be done one of three ways??

I purchased my chain from Rock Auto and is the same one sold by the BenzBin and Rusty's at a substantial discount.

Comments and suggestions appreciated

Brian

Please use the riveting link method. Should be a light press fit to assemble, then you back up one side of the link with a heavy steel block and peen the opposite side with a hammer. More work, but more secure. Seems that some here have used a special tool to peen the chain. The spring clips are not positive enough for this critical application.

BTW, which manual suggests using the spring clip?

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

"I have the workshop manual and they suggest using the spring "C" clip syle and not riveted,"

Which manual is that ?

The oldest manuals may well have stated something like that, as there used to be a spring clips sold with the timing chain replacements. That went out when they found a lot of the clips were failing.

Chainged a few gasser chains and they all came with the clip type master link from mercedes.. Have not changed any on my diesels yet but pretty sure will be changing one this spring. Surprised me a little earlier when reference was made to peening over pins when connecting master link. Since the vintage of my gas cars were all earlier than the 123s I think the gentleman on a previous post perhaps has a point. Peening master link might be superior or mercedes would be all c clip master links by now. Regular oil changes help get the maximum time out of a timing chain as they are really sensitive to the lubricants cleanliness. Perhaps the chains are the most oil qualty sensitive component in the block. I would of course take the time to check oil pump chain out as well if primary chain really badly worn especially if not certain of the milage on car as on this site have read of more than one or two failures of the oil pump chain leading to disaster. The oil pump chain may be reasonable in cost compared to primary chain. Maybe someone with more knowledge than myself could comment on the best way to check an oil pump chain? The chain side sag test means removal for checking probably. Maybe it's as simple as measuring distance in centre with chain stretched while still on sprockets? Or perhaps someone knows if there is a recommended proceedure to do.. A lot of us including myself do not posses the hardcover engine manual if it's in there. Edit: sorry Old Dies your post went up when I was pounding out mine.

I would suggest using the "special tool" to crimp the link. Hammer may work, but this is a part you do not want to fail. The chain press tool cost about $200, but can be rented from a couple sources.

__________________
85 300CD
83 300TD
78 240D (daughter)

We have been over this a lot of times in the archives... but I will put it here again.

1. Peening the pins is by far the best attachement method unless you are doing a complete engine overhaul .... in that case use the continous chain with no master link.... this is what the FSM says.

2. There is no need for the special crimping tool. The pin holes are tight , the metals are hardened, there is no side pressure, this is a DOUBLE roller chain, and ANY Mushrooming of the end of the pin will be fine.

3. Ask someone to help you hold or hit a rounded center punch being held at the center of the pin end while you hold a two pound hammer head against the back of the pin and the punch in front. One sharp tap, look, reposition, another sharp rap. This is not a speed hammering job. But it is likely to take less than one minute total.

4. Some have reported that vise grips or pipe pliers help in placing the side plate on the pins in the first place... no matter what do not enlarge the holes to make this easier... the holes are tight for a reason.

gavinbr

Good advice from the others, "forget the C clip" A ball peen hammer with a body dolly, back up, works fine. The heardest thing for me was getting the side plate over the pins . I finally used "needle nose" vice grips.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
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