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  #16  
Old 02-21-2005, 09:28 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
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Location: Dallas, TX
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So you're saying that the electrical portion of the key switch is what's causing my blower problem? The key isn't returning to the proper spot, so does the electrical portion of it have something mechanical to it to force the key back after it's released from the start position?

To fix this issue, would I have to remove just the cylinder? I think the cylinder is the only thing that can be removed without major surgery.

Thanks
David

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  #17  
Old 02-22-2005, 07:20 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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A mistake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyFromWestOz
I did a quick check on my 300D last night.
I used my Mityvac to check out my vacuum shutoff valve. I can pull a vacuum and the engine shuts down. It will hold the vacuum and not allow the STOP lever to return to the UP position until the vacum is released.

I then reconnected the vacuum line to the shutoff valve. Started the car and then turned it off. The STOP lever dropped and the engine shut down. then the lever rose up again.

On the W123 at least, the vacuum valve on the ignition switch had 2 ports, and one has a vent hole associated with it. If the vent hole becomes blocked, it is possible that the vacuum valve will be applying a vacuum to the shutoff valve, but not alowing it to leak off and allow the STOP lever to return to the Run position.

Using a Mityvac, on the vacuum line to the shutoff valve, turn the engine off (it won't shutdown because you have the vacuum line off) then manually shutdown the engine using the STOP lever. The vacuum should be at maximum (less the leak) and then leak down. If not, you may have a blocked vent in the ignition shutdown valve.
I may be wrong about the shutdown valve on the ignition switch. It may be that the vacuum to the IP shutdown diaphragm is released when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I do have a minor leak in my diaghragm.
My apologies if this caused anyone some head scratching. It may also be different on other cars.
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2005, 10:51 AM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
I'll Go Upside Your Head!
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
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I think the vacuum should be released when the key is switched on. So maybe it is a key switch problem? Do you guys know which part of the switch would be the problem? The cylinder, tumbler, electrical part? I know how to remove the cylinder, which may also be called the tumbler? How are the other parts gotten out?

Thanks
David
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2005, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Central Oregon
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The vacuum valve

I believe is just screwed on to the back of the key switch. Good news is it should be easy to replace if needed. Bad news is I think you have to either go under the dash (can you say contortion) or through the instrument panel to get to it.
Might just be a plugged port but more likely it is that the key switch is not turning to the correct location to bleed vacuum. Of course you could be really lucky and it is just that the screws holding it are loose and will fix it if you tighten them back up... I like to be a positive thinker...

I have personally never been to that depth in the SD only on the old 80 300D and it was real easy to reach the switch from under the dash.
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2005, 06:23 PM
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I had helped a friend do one on a 300SDL and it was a pain in the ass.

Try and locate the other brown line that passes through the firewall that feeds the ignition switch and try testing that with the key in various positions before you pull the steering lock out.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
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  #21  
Old 02-22-2005, 09:51 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
I'll Go Upside Your Head!
 
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Thank you both very much. I'll try this tomorrow and get back with you guys.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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