Ok..

I've just rolled a new chain into my wifes '83 300D. I cannot for the life of me get the master link on.

Forget the whole problem of crimping it. I can't even get the center plate or the outside plate on the pins.

I've reached the frustration level that is right before I start tearing things up by using too much force.

Anyone whos done one of these. Whats the trick to getting the master link on. I'm pretty sure I can do the crimping part. But like I said above.. How do I get the center plate and the outside plate on the pins?

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

Check to see if one is easier to put in the center than the other... it can not go anywhere... the outside one is tight so that any blossoming of the pin will constitute a good peen.
I think many have used needle nose visegrips to help on this....

It is somewhat of a loose press fit that you will have to use force to push it on there. I've never done it without the crimp tool but a large pair of channel locks may work.

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Jim

I used a large pair of vise grips. Once I got the pins through the centerlink, I readjusted the grips to keep going. You are not alone in being frustrated and right in recognizing that a step away is far better than venting that frustration on the chain. Due primarily both the inherent awkwardness of this procedure and the high importance of getting it right without damaging anything, this calls for at least 3 good beers (in a proper pint glass, of course) and music. Really.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Since I haven't done this job myself yet, I'll ask:

If one happened to have a small block of metal, about the size of the face of a chain link in two dimensions, and a little deeper in the other dimension than the length of the pins, with a couple of through holes to clear the pins - to use as a "pusher" - would a sturdy c-clamp do the trick?

yes, it would

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Finally got it together.

I wish I had taken pictures as I did this.. but alas.. Oh well.

I pressed the pins through the back row of the chain and lifted the front row out of the way. Took a pair of channel lock pliers and pressed the center plate onto the pins. Lifted the slack side of the chain and moved the whole shebang back so the plate was in the center on the sprocket. Then I slow tapped the plate into position. (Don't do what I did and forget to put the front row parts down into position when doing this. If you think getting the plate on is tough.. try removing it.) I then repeated the channel lock procedure on the outside plate.

Glad thats done. I'm still buttoning everything else back up. Installed a new tensioner, new slide rail and replacing the small coolant hose between the T-stat housing and the water pump.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

Remember to take out the spring for the ratcheting tensioner and clean and reset it.

James


I found that to be the toughest part of the job the first time I did it. I wound up by putting the "squeeze" on the link with needle nose vice grips then tapping lightly around the "other side" with a ball peen (your squeezing between the holes, now tap outboard of the holes). It popped right on.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I actually replaced the entire tensioner. I bought the "kit" from **************.com and it included a new tensioner. The old one appears to be just fine. But what the heck.

Also replaced the 'slide rail' which was included in the kit. I sure wish that his kit included a thermostat housing gasket. But alas it doesn't.

I didn't take the opportunity to take the cam gear off and check to see if it had a woodruff key. I'm assuming that if it did. My 'eyeball' timing marks wouldn't line up with the new chain. Is that correct?

I'm assuming that the was never correct nor was the IP ever retimed. The power that was missing has returned. Heck its got more getup now than my coupe.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

Oh make sure you use a hardened punch to crimp. Mine aparently weren't and I think I crimped the punch as much as the pin. But I think I got it on there good.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.