Bear with me here guys... I'm new to this MB diesel stuff.

I have a couple questions..
First
Several replys to my other post suggest you just keep the go pedal down all the time on a 240D except for the quick shift.
Remember I am at 4500' elevation and proabaly 15% handicapped on my net 67 horsepower at this elevation.
I see on the speedo the yellow marks which I assume are the shift points?? ..... about what rpm are these at?.. can I rev that little sucker much past that? 4000-4400 is what I read but since I have no tach I wonder where you guys shift or do you do as suggested and just hammer it?
Can this motor be over -revved

Second

I am missing two little rubber grommet that are squarish looking that go on that throttle rod that rotates and connects to the adjustable rods that conect to the IP and the brass looking shutoff assmbley...it's a knid of a pressed fit hard black rubber deal. I'll try to get a picture later if I have confused you by now. My rubber grommets are missing and thus there is alot of play in the throttle assembly..although my throttle does fully depress the IIP to full throttle. I checked fastlane and could not see these items listed.. any help would be appreciated.


thanks
bennett

You can run it to the dots on the speedo, but don't try to go past that. Not because you'll damage the engine, but mostly because you don't get anything from it. The max rpm on these engines is determined by the speed at which diesel fuel burns, which is slower than gasoline. So you'll notice that power (what there is of it) falls off very quickly as you approach the dots. And yes, it sounds like the pistons are going to fly through the hood at that engine speed.

Regarding the bushings, I know what you're talking about because they're missing on my 300D as well. I tried to look them up in the electronic parts catalog to give you a part number, but couldn't figure it out. There are quite a few different versions of the accelerator linkage, and they aren't very clear in the EPC. You can try calling Phil at Fastlane and asking about the parts, but you might need a picture to help him figure it out. He had a devil of a time trying to figure out the stop lever for my 240D and it turned out to be a dealer only part anyway. So if you have a dealer nearby, you might want to pop over and get those bushings since they're small and inexpensive anyway. If you find a part number, please let me know.

Edit: Phil can get LOTS of parts that are not listed on the web site. When in doubt, call and ask.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

A little strange you have full injection pump action with these bushings removed. Must be able to adjust linkage to compensate. Mine did not have full linkage travel with them missing. Made something up temporarily to drive the car home giving full linkage throw. Like the other fellow if you come up with a part number post it please as would like to have the two whatevers installed. Used a piece of rubber fuel line for the temp fix four months ago.

I have this idea now that trying to shift the 240D transmission too fast is hard on the synchronizers. Something to the effect that these things have to spin up or down to the correct speed as you are moving the shift lever toward the next gear. So you should shift fairly leisurely rather than trying to be a race car driver.

So now I no longer try to perform the quickest possible shift.

Anything to that?

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

I figured you would have to quick shift or lose all your momentum....

make sense though about the syncros...

The dots are there to show you the maximum speed for each gear. Want to downshift into second, make sure your speed is below the two-dot mark, etc.

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85 300CD
83 300TD
78 240D (daughter)

" The max rpm on these engines is determined by the speed at which diesel fuel burns, which is slower than gasoline."

I am not sure that is correct. On gasoline engines you can increase the available rpms by increasing valve overlap (while using the same fuel and thus burn rate ).... which puts more fuel and air into the cylinders per unit of time... producing more horsepower... but clearly using more fuel. To have an efficient engine you need to keep the valves closed as long as possible during the power producing stage...

Also , the pistons must travel longer distances relative to lower compression engines.... this is a natural physics restriction to high rpms.....

For my 1980 240d manual the recommended shift points for fuel economy are :

shift
from 1st to 2nd at 21 km/h/13 mph
from 2nd to 3rd at 35 km/h/22 mph
from 3rd to 4th at 52 km/h/32 mph