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  #1  
Old 02-26-2005, 08:30 PM
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Steering wheel removal

Does anyone know the size of the allen head bolt holding the steering wheel on? I've got to replace the turn signal switch assembly. This is for my 85 300SD. The bolt is being a real ***** to get off. Maybe will have to buy a socket allen wrench and put a cheater bar on it.
Thanks for the help.

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1983 M-B 300D, 148K, daughter's ride
1983 M-B 300TD, 120K, my ride
1985 M-B 300SD, 102K, wife's ride
1969 HD FLH, 45K, restored/hobby
1996 Chev Suburban, family taxi/tow vehicle
1990 John Deere Model 240
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  #2  
Old 02-26-2005, 08:38 PM
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If I recall, its a 10mm. 2 ft 1/2" breaker bar ought to do the trick.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #3  
Old 02-26-2005, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnhef
If I recall, its a 10mm. 2 ft 1/2" breaker bar ought to do the trick.
John, I have to do the same thing. With that kind of torque, what do you use for countertorque? I don't have a gorilla handy to hold onto the wheel rim.
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
John, I have to do the same thing. With that kind of torque, what do you use for countertorque? I don't have a gorilla handy to hold onto the wheel rim.
The wheel lock should be strong enough to handle it.
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2005, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrei
The wheel lock should be strong enough to handle it.
That's the last thing I want to load up with that kind of torque.
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2005, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
That's the last thing I want to load up with that kind of torque.
Agreed. The wheel lock consists of a pin that pops up into a recess in a collar on the column when it is turned into position. The pin is probably a 1/4 inch diamater. (at least on my 115 it is) If you bugger that up, you might have wheel turning problems in the future.

You don't need a gorilla to counterhold it. Just get another person to hold the wheel for you. My brother held the wheel as I removed the bolt/nut on my 115 and his 123. I don't think he is available though. . .
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  #7  
Old 02-26-2005, 10:45 PM
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I've removed stubborn steering wheel bolts like this before. The steering wheel lock is definetly NOT the way to hold the wheel. I've always gotten by with another person holding the wheel. Are these bolts always so hard to get off?
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1983 M-B 300D, 148K, daughter's ride
1983 M-B 300TD, 120K, my ride
1985 M-B 300SD, 102K, wife's ride
1969 HD FLH, 45K, restored/hobby
1996 Chev Suburban, family taxi/tow vehicle
1990 John Deere Model 240
1942 John Deere Model LA
1985 16' 4Winns ski boat
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2005, 01:38 AM
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I thought the 126's didnt lock the steering, My 82 didn't. Maybe it was just on the newer cars it doesnt. anyways of all the ones I've done, I've never broken a steering lock, just don't beat on it, FWIW.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2005, 09:45 AM
LarryBible
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Given the hassle and difficulty of replacing the steering lock pieces I would follow the advice from Brian and josh. Don't apply any force to that steering lock.

You should be able to apply the counter force on the steering wheel yourself. You have to pull/push against something when you are making that torque, so let that be the steering wheel. A breaker bar and quality 1/2" drive Allen should get the job done.

Good luck,
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2005, 01:03 AM
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Here's the update:
Bought a 10mm 3/8" socket hex at Sears. It was a perfect fit in the steering wheel bolt. Upped to a 1/2" ratchet and an 18" cheater pipe. Finally, after reefing on it, the bolt broke loose and off came the steering wheel. That's the good news. Now for the bad... My helper gorilla had to put so much counter torque on the wheel to keep it off the locking pins that the main wheel spoke bars got tweaked slightly. This caused the horn pad mounting screw holes to not align. then had to counter-tweak the wheel to get them to line up. Finally, i have a functioning turn signal switch and the right tool for the job. Thanks for the help in sizing the hex tool.
Mike
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1983 M-B 300D, 148K, daughter's ride
1983 M-B 300TD, 120K, my ride
1985 M-B 300SD, 102K, wife's ride
1969 HD FLH, 45K, restored/hobby
1996 Chev Suburban, family taxi/tow vehicle
1990 John Deere Model 240
1942 John Deere Model LA
1985 16' 4Winns ski boat
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  #11  
Old 02-28-2005, 01:18 AM
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That seems like an inordinate amount of force needed to remove that nut. I think the torque is 80Nm but im not positive. There may have been some locktight on there, but enough to bend the wheel!

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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