Just brought home an 82 300TDT wagon last night!! Went to Maryland to pick it up. Drove home great, got about 24 MPG, not bad, but hopefully I can do better with some cleaning & setting the valves, it's got some blowby. It's in pretty good shape, just has some rust on the passenger rear wheel well that I need to fix soon. The suspension seems great too.
Only other problems with it is there's no heat. I'm guessing it's the Monovalve. Need to check it out today or tomorrow. Also, the tailgate doesn't stay up. Are there supposed to be those shock thingies on it? There's nothing on there now that I can see. Would they be inside someplace? The front passenger & rear drivers windows don't work, hopefully it's just a loose wire or something. I read a post about a new antenna mast fixing an antenna that doesn't go up & down. The motor works, but the antenna doesn't move, so I think it's probably stripped. I didn't find that on Fastlane last night. Where would I find one?
Well, that's about all my questions for now till I really tear into it! Thanks! & It's GREAT to be driving another 123 Mercedes again!!!

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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)

Congrats, Michael --

1) Probably not the monovalve -- when it fails you get full heat, not zero heat. Might be an issue with the temp sensor in the dash, the rubber/foam tube that sucks air past it, control panel -- who knows? Search the forum archives for "no heat." I'd check the tube/sensor first by pulling the glove box.

2) Yeah, there should be gas struts, up by the upper left and right corners of the hatchback. I'd bet they're still there, just worn out.

3) Sounds like you have a funky fuse. The windows are fused diagonally. Might just be corroded, or blown.

4) Probably the mast. It has a nylon driveshaft that breaks, or if the passage is gummed up, it can stick. Then the shaft gets a worn spot on it from where the drive wheel rubs against it. You'll want to remove the antenna unit and clean it out before installing a new mast. Also, examine the tension idler (near the big drive wheel, about 7-8 o'clock) to make sure it works smothly. Bad news: Assuming the antenna is original, your car has a Hirschmann 6000u antenna, and most spare parts are NLA. So if the tension roller is sticking you'll have to fashion a repair on your own. Good news: Replacement masts are still widely available, and I'm sure that FastLane has them under "accessories." You want the mast with the smooth driveshaft, again assuming the antenna is original.

You'll find a lot more detail about each issue by searching the archives. This is just a quick run-through.

Good luck!
Russ M
'82 300cd
'82 300td

Congratulations! You sound like I did when I took a train to Texas to bring home my 82 TD.

What color is it? How many miles?

Sorry I can't give more assistance, I think they've already given better advice than I could about your problems.

Enjoy!

peace,
sam

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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

You would think that this would be true. But, myself and others have recently found that a torn diaphragm on the monovalve causes some type of failure that results in no heat. I'm not sure if the resulting coolant up inside the valve causes the valve to sit all the way down and provide no heat or exactly what the failure mode is.

But, I lost my heat in the SDL on the coldest day of the year around here (down to 8°F.) that evening, and the cause was definitely a torn diaphragm in the monovalve.

Hey, thanks for the quick tips!! I just pulled & checked all the fuses & they seem fine. There're two missing, #5 & C I believe. 5 on the fuse cover says there's nothing on it, would this be correct? Windows still don't work though.
I checked the antenna & pulled it up some & it started working then, only going half way down though, but it does go up now. Must be a worn spot on the cord, I'm guessing. Have to pull it when I get the more important stuff fixed.
Yep, sounds like the struts are still in the tailgate. I'll have to pull them & replace them.
Guess I'll pull the monovalve & temp sensor & see if I can figure out which one is bad. Just take some fiddling around, I guess.
Sam, it's silver with blue interior, nice shape other than a couple rust spots & a cracked dash. Needs a dash cover soon! It's got just over 200,000 on it.
Another thing I found is the rear wiper & washer don't work. Another fuse issue maybe?

Thanks Again!!

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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)

Try lubing the heck out of the anteana first (sylicone works well). Might just be sticking. Hope it's just a fuse w/ the back wiper. Mine was a broken gear in the assembly. Not one of the three wagons I've owned ever had a working rear washer. Never really bothered me either.
Good Luck! I miss my wagons .
-M-

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Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

Astral silver outside and navy blue inside! Thats the same as mine! Our wagons are twins.

Wanna trade hoods? J/K, you don't want my hood, trust me.

The gas shocks on the tailgate are a very common failure. Apparently the fact that mine work is a bit surprising.

peace,
sam

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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

OH, one more question, the dash lights and button lights don't work either. Was really hoping it was a fuse, but now I'm not so sure. The radio light works, but none of the others.

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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)

Dash lights being out are typically a bad rheostat....try moving it back and forth first....they aren't that expansive new on fastlane...or you can bridge it.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I should've remembered that! That was wrong with my 240D when I got it too. Thanks!

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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)

McRoth

Congrats on the new ride. I picked one up last week end too. My wife loves it, now if I can only get it running. Does yours have the third seat? My tail gate stays up till you get your heat under it then its apt to come down I'm really looking fwd to getting it going, seems like they are really fine cars.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Hm, I wonder if coolant leaked into the solenoid and gummed it up. I've replaced a couple monovalve cores (one in a W123, one in an E24 BMW), and in each case I was getting the full-heat syndrome.

Russ M

in my 85 300sd resulted in **no** heat at all. Perhaps there are some design differences over the models/years to account for the different system behaviors.

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1985 300SD, 203,000 miles, dark blue

Lil Sarah says: "Poor old Grandma Blue Car...She's sad."

Yep, the dash light problem was the rheostat. I took the one off my 240D & put it in & it did the trick! One problem down, quite a few to go!

How big a deal is it to change the water pump? Mine leaks pretty good, unfortunately. My haynes says I have to pull the radiator & all that stuff to do it. Do I really have to? Suppose it's not really that big a deal, but still.

I noticed that the light dims when I try to put the passenger side window down, so I'm thinking the motor there is probably bad. It doesn't do that with the driver's rear though, have to check that out more.

Hopefully I'll pull the monovalve tomorrow & see if I can figure out what's wrong with it.

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Michael Roth

1982 300TDT Wagon
1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine
88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading
1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale!
1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project)

Very Nice McRoth!!
Now I know what mine would look like if any of the paint were still on it. at least it is a close match to the base metal....
Heck, my rear window washer and wiper are the only things that DO work correctly. I guess I should count my blessings.
Nice wagon, and enjoy! Tell us what fixes your heat, and if you do the water pump, pictures, pictures, pictures.....
Jimmy L

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John