603 injection timing or cam timing
 

Hi All.
I've been doing some searching and found some information on injection timing. but still feel the need to ask for more. The 87 300D is back together after the head job, new lifters and the new valves after loosing the timing pin on my cam sprocket and bending some valves. (long story and very long time in my garage)
1. overheated and cracked head in AUG 04 :mad:
2. replaced head in DEC 04 :D
3. started car and had bad lifters in DEC 04 :eek:
4. replaced lifters in JAN 05 :D
5. started car in jan 05 and broke timing pin on cam and bent several valves :mad:
6. removed head and had valves replaced and tested, tested good :D
7. re-installed head and more new lifters in FEB 05 :)
8. car runs, but rough and smokey when cold and always very loud :o

The Car starts and runs but runs very rough (with lots of grey smoke) until up to operatiing temperature, and then is very loud (sounds like a knock or constant nailing). Power is fine when warmed up and very low smoke (passed emmissions last thursday) just embarassingly loud.
I followed the advice of GSXR when re-installing the cam as far as timing goes. (crank rotation several times to verify timing) My worry is that I have slipped a tooth on the injection pump. If I did that, which way did it slip, and how much of an ordeal is it to correct it. I have the ability to make a sound clip if someone thinks it will help to hear the car.

Well thats the saga, and now I need some guidance to get it right, I absolutely love the car and would love to be able to proudly drive it again. :)

What procedure did you use to set the injection pump timing?

It did not appear as if the timing had changed during the repairs. I had the chain under tension to avoid any unexpected movement and complications involving the IP.

Well I guess that might work if you did not move the engine at all while the head was off AND you reassembled the engine with the cam in EXACTLY the same position it was in when you originally removed it.

I'd recheck the cam timing (using a dial indicator) and check the IP timing - I'm betting one or both are off.

Do you have the factory shop manual? At this level of work the shop manual is pretty much required reading.

I know this sounds stupid, and I'm probably way off, but when you bent valves, I wonder could you have damaged or cracked (hairline) pistons as a result?

I suppose if there were tiny fine cracks in the pistons it would allow for much blow-by.

Also, if you were off timing by one tooth length, the IP is adjustable + or - a tooth length, you might be able to confirm that possibility!

Busy
I am hoping you are "way off" on the cracked piston but who knows. I did get the car to an indy last night after work and we found the timing mark on the governor, under the 17mm cap where you put the timing pin in, and it looks like I am slightly off in timing. The mark (some call it a slot or “v” groove) in the governor is on the high side of the opening which would indicate that I need to rotate the top of the pump towards the engine. I will attempt the adjustment this week after I get the maintainence project out of the garage.