Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-07-2005, 11:13 AM
PRO VEGGIE CONVERTER
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Santa Maria CA 150mi North of LA
Posts: 680
Removing the Big oil pan!

I have my 5 cyl diesel out of my benz and I would like to clean it up as much as possible before installing it. I powdercoated the valve cover and I then wanted to remove the large oil pan in order to powdercoat that as well. I removed all of the allan bolts, the flywheel and I can not get it off. I resorted to a 2x4 and a sledge hammer and it doesnt look like it has moved more than 1/1000 of an inch. What should I do?

__________________
Andrew Villasenor
805-720-5057
1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver)
ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO
Everything is for sale for the right amount
Ebay Store
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-07-2005, 11:20 AM
Old Deis
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
It's been a while, but I am thinking you missed a few of the bolts, as you noticed there are lots of bolts there.
Look underneath the rear area as a start. As a recall there are some allen headed bolts in there that are buried deep. Will take an allen headed socket and a medium to long extention to get to them.
The lower casing will lift right off when all the fasteners are loose. It is not held on with much, maybe a thin film of sealant.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-07-2005, 01:11 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
I guarentee you didnt remove one or two bolts

I have done this too several times and gotten a big hammer and whacked it only to find the bolts I didnt take out covered by grease somewhere...please look harder!!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-07-2005, 02:20 PM
billrei's Avatar
W109, Floating on air!!
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Goleta, CA
Posts: 556
Wow, you SL/SLC drivers operate on another plane! As long as you keep the greasy side down whose going to notice! I hope that since you have the engine torn down this far that you are also going to at the very least install new front and rear main oil seals. Pulling the engine down purely for cosmetic reasons without checking out the mechanicals like bearing condition, oil pump etc. seems like kind of a waste. Alright I'm off the soapbox.....

If the oil pan has been pulled before someone may have used heavy duty gorilla snot (silicone sealent) to put the pan back on. If this is the case you may want to find an area where you can gently lever the pan off to break the seal in a small area then work to split it around the pan. The block of wood method sometimes does not concentrate the load enough to break a tight seal. But check for bolts first.
__________________
Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-07-2005, 03:19 PM
Old Deis
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Should never use anything other that sealant on that part. Use of the silicon and RTV can cost you an engine. Breaks off chunks goes into oil lines and they get plugged and there she goes.....
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-07-2005, 05:46 PM
PRO VEGGIE CONVERTER
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Santa Maria CA 150mi North of LA
Posts: 680
Im replacing front and rear seals, rebuilding vacuum pump, new return line seals and gaskets, transmission service, glow plugs, new belts, cold air intake, straight pipe exhaust, egr block plate, new oil pan gasket(and oil pan silicon on big pan if I ever get it off), new fuel lines, all new filters and fluids, new rubber lines. You get the idea.
__________________
Andrew Villasenor
805-720-5057
1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver)
ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO
Everything is for sale for the right amount
Ebay Store
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-07-2005, 05:48 PM
billrei's Avatar
W109, Floating on air!!
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Goleta, CA
Posts: 556
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiwanga
Im replacing front and rear seals, rebuilding vacuum pump, new return line seals and gaskets, transmission service, glow plugs, new belts, cold air intake, straight pipe exhaust, egr block plate, new oil pan gasket(and oil pan silicon on big pan if I ever get it off), new fuel lines, all new filters and fluids, new rubber lines. You get the idea.
Glad to hear it. Post pictures of the engine when its done.
__________________
Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-07-2005, 07:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: S. Texas
Posts: 1,237
The first thing you need to do is STOP beating on a cast aluminum pan with a hammer even if you are using a wooden block. These pans are strong but not bullet proof.

Look around the edge of the seal between the engine block and the pan for a small indentation that would allow you to get a wedge in between the two. If you don't find any get something like a 'Wunderbar' and start working you way around the edge driving it in a small bit at a time. A Wunderbar is a thin pry bar that is available at hardware stores. The are very handy for removing door panels, etc. You might even have to grind the bar thinner before you start.

Don't try to get too much bar in at one time. Drive the bar in, pull it out and insert a screw driver in the hole. Move along the edge opening it a bit and following with the screw driver. Oil pans that have been on an engine for 25 years and have gone through thousands of heat/cool cycles can be very difficult to remove.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-08-2005, 08:36 AM
TonyFromWestOz's Avatar
"The Wizard of Oz"
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Deis
Should never use anything other that sealant on that part. Use of the silicon and RTV can cost you an engine. Breaks off chunks goes into oil lines and they get plugged and there she goes.....
Whilst I don't doubt that RTV could become separated from the gasket surface, I cannot understand how it could get into oil galleries. The oil pump has a strainer - this should keep anything out which could damage the oil pump or block the oil gallery to the filter, then the filter should catch anything big enough to cause engine damage, let alone anything large enough to block an oil gallery.
__________________
Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-08-2005, 09:57 AM
Old Deis
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Don't think it can? Wish you could have seen my old engine from the 85 Ford. There was a chunk of RTV that lodged in the oil pump itself. The oil pump then locked up tight and the the drive shaft to it twisted off. Small chunk at that.
After disassembly of the oil pump and finding the problem, I started asking rebuilders, was told RTV can be a real problem if it gets into the oil pan. Recommend it be left on the shelf.
My .02 worth.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-09-2005, 11:22 AM
PRO VEGGIE CONVERTER
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Santa Maria CA 150mi North of LA
Posts: 680
ALL of the bolts are removed, I am sure. I have tried getting a screw driver between the pan and the block to try and pry it out, and I am getting very little give. I am thinking about applying a little bit of heat, in hope to melt the glue. What do you ya'll think?
__________________
Andrew Villasenor
805-720-5057
1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver)
ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO
Everything is for sale for the right amount
Ebay Store
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-09-2005, 01:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 222
The heat gun is not a bad idea at this stage. Instead of a screwdriver, try a sharp putty knife on the flat surfaces. It is thinner and will cut through the sealant faster than a screwdriver with less danger of damaging the pan.

Tom
__________________
1993 300TE
1984 300D
1984 300SD
1976 BMW R90S
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-09-2005, 01:56 PM
Old Deis
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Are you sure you have all of the bolts out of there? I just do not remember the lower engine case being glued on that tight, while I do recall there were lots of bolts that were very hard to locate.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-09-2005, 06:30 PM
PRO VEGGIE CONVERTER
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Santa Maria CA 150mi North of LA
Posts: 680
I found two more bolts that I missed, I really thought I had them all off, but I am humbled. It came right off after that, thanks for the advice.

__________________
Andrew Villasenor
805-720-5057
1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver)
ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO
Everything is for sale for the right amount
Ebay Store
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The oil debate again What do you think of this dpbrowne Diesel Discussion 101 04-01-2005 02:33 PM
Mobil1 15w50 in Cold Weather jjalex Diesel Discussion 30 01-21-2004 03:54 PM
My semi-definitive oil post JHZR2 Diesel Discussion 0 01-21-2004 12:25 AM
Any fanatics religiously change oil @ 2.5K intervals or less? -fad Tech Help 60 03-19-2002 11:22 AM
Oil Pan Replacement on a 79 300 CD JPL Tech Help 2 07-10-2001 03:50 PM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page