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#1
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Removing the Big oil pan!
I have my 5 cyl diesel out of my benz and I would like to clean it up as much as possible before installing it. I powdercoated the valve cover and I then wanted to remove the large oil pan in order to powdercoat that as well. I removed all of the allan bolts, the flywheel and I can not get it off. I resorted to a 2x4 and a sledge hammer and it doesnt look like it has moved more than 1/1000 of an inch. What should I do?
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
#2
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It's been a while, but I am thinking you missed a few of the bolts, as you noticed there are lots of bolts there.
Look underneath the rear area as a start. As a recall there are some allen headed bolts in there that are buried deep. Will take an allen headed socket and a medium to long extention to get to them. The lower casing will lift right off when all the fasteners are loose. It is not held on with much, maybe a thin film of sealant. |
#3
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I guarentee you didnt remove one or two bolts
I have done this too several times and gotten a big hammer and whacked it only to find the bolts I didnt take out covered by grease somewhere...please look harder!!
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#4
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Wow, you SL/SLC drivers operate on another plane! As long as you keep the greasy side down whose going to notice! I hope that since you have the engine torn down this far that you are also going to at the very least install new front and rear main oil seals. Pulling the engine down purely for cosmetic reasons without checking out the mechanicals like bearing condition, oil pump etc. seems like kind of a waste. Alright I'm off the soapbox.....
If the oil pan has been pulled before someone may have used heavy duty gorilla snot (silicone sealent) to put the pan back on. If this is the case you may want to find an area where you can gently lever the pan off to break the seal in a small area then work to split it around the pan. The block of wood method sometimes does not concentrate the load enough to break a tight seal. But check for bolts first.
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Bill Reimels Now down to one: 1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery) |
#5
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Should never use anything other that sealant on that part. Use of the silicon and RTV can cost you an engine. Breaks off chunks goes into oil lines and they get plugged and there she goes.....
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#6
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Im replacing front and rear seals, rebuilding vacuum pump, new return line seals and gaskets, transmission service, glow plugs, new belts, cold air intake, straight pipe exhaust, egr block plate, new oil pan gasket(and oil pan silicon on big pan if I ever get it off), new fuel lines, all new filters and fluids, new rubber lines. You get the idea.
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
#7
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Quote:
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Bill Reimels Now down to one: 1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery) |
#8
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The first thing you need to do is STOP beating on a cast aluminum pan with a hammer even if you are using a wooden block. These pans are strong but not bullet proof.
Look around the edge of the seal between the engine block and the pan for a small indentation that would allow you to get a wedge in between the two. If you don't find any get something like a 'Wunderbar' and start working you way around the edge driving it in a small bit at a time. A Wunderbar is a thin pry bar that is available at hardware stores. The are very handy for removing door panels, etc. You might even have to grind the bar thinner before you start. Don't try to get too much bar in at one time. Drive the bar in, pull it out and insert a screw driver in the hole. Move along the edge opening it a bit and following with the screw driver. Oil pans that have been on an engine for 25 years and have gone through thousands of heat/cool cycles can be very difficult to remove. |
#9
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Quote:
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Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly. |
#10
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Don't think it can? Wish you could have seen my old engine from the 85 Ford. There was a chunk of RTV that lodged in the oil pump itself. The oil pump then locked up tight and the the drive shaft to it twisted off. Small chunk at that.
After disassembly of the oil pump and finding the problem, I started asking rebuilders, was told RTV can be a real problem if it gets into the oil pan. Recommend it be left on the shelf. My .02 worth. |
#11
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ALL of the bolts are removed, I am sure. I have tried getting a screw driver between the pan and the block to try and pry it out, and I am getting very little give. I am thinking about applying a little bit of heat, in hope to melt the glue. What do you ya'll think?
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
#12
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The heat gun is not a bad idea at this stage. Instead of a screwdriver, try a sharp putty knife on the flat surfaces. It is thinner and will cut through the sealant faster than a screwdriver with less danger of damaging the pan.
Tom
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1993 300TE 1984 300D 1984 300SD 1976 BMW R90S |
#13
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Are you sure you have all of the bolts out of there? I just do not remember the lower engine case being glued on that tight, while I do recall there were lots of bolts that were very hard to locate.
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#14
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I found two more bolts that I missed, I really thought I had them all off, but I am humbled. It came right off after that, thanks for the advice.
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Andrew Villasenor 805-720-5057 1984 300D turbo 5-speed manual(daily driver) ALL MY DIESELS RUNNING WVO Everything is for sale for the right amount Ebay Store |
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