Re-installed my IP after engine rebuild on my 240D yesterday following the directions of aligning the mark and the missing tooth mark on the IP as well as setting the crank to 24 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke. (#1 cam lobes up!) Problem when I went to check the "Start of delivery", no fuel until I rotated the crank to ~20 degrees ATDC. Yes I installed the drip tool after removing the element and wired the throtle at full load with the vacuum line removed. I thought that I kind of understood that 24 degrees BTDC was when the fuel was supposed to start flowing but after reading some of the old posts I'm not sure. So I have two questions: 1. Anyone know how much adjustment is available by moving the IP from one side to another? (Preferably in degrees.) 2. Do I need to pull the IP and start over again to get it align? Thanks for all help/ideas!

Here is another article for setting the IP. Maybe it will spark something. I'm still an injection timing virgin so I can't add any personal experience...
http://engine.articles.mbz.org/diesel/injtiming/

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Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)

arpy15

The fuel should just stopping dripping from the driptube at 24* BTDC when the IP is set correctly, but this not when the fuel is injected into the cylinder. You might consider 24*BTDC as a reference point that when the IP is set correctly at 24*BTDC , it will inject the fuel at the correct time.

I am sure you have to R&R the IP since you are off 44*. There isn't that much adjustment on the IP, but I don't know how much adjustment there is.

P E H

I have found that there is usually not more than a few degrees that can be had from moving the IP back and forth.

Best thing to do is trial and error trying to find where the wide spline should go in correlation with the notch to get a 24 btdc start of delivery.

Im not familer with the 240d, but I am pretty sure you do not have to remove the oil filter housing, like on my SD, am I right?

1985 300SD Sady has had his IP off and back on more times than probibly anyone else here.........I've only done it 3 times.....not fun unless you are a mascochist.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

You set the cam mark and crank at TDC with the chain tight, then moved to 24 BTDC, then set the IP to its mark and then installed it? You rolled the eng over a couple of times, no interferance? Its been a couple years but I think thats the drill. Have you done the timing thing before? I use the drip method but it sounds like got it right. Your not the first to get bogged down at this point

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Yes, that is exactly what I did. I have done the timing before (Drip Method) but first time taking off the injection pump. I am working for the next four days and won't have much of a chance to mess with it although I probably will tomorrow night cause it is kind of bothering me! She has been out of service for over a month while a machine shop did the work/waiting for parts and I am getting a little antsy!

"1985 300SD Sady has had his IP off and back on more times than probibly anyone else here.........I've only done it 3 times.....not fun unless you are a mascochist."

The first time I had things apart I wore out the gasket between IP & block because I took it on & off so many times, least with a 616 its an easy job, especially after you do it a few dozen times

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

OK if I'm reading your post correctly you might be just a little advanced. Rotate the crank around twice and come up on, say 30 degrees BTDC pump the hand pump and you should have fuel flowing from you drip tube. Bump the crank by hand a degree at a time when the flow is reduced to barely a drip every few seconds that is start of delivery. It that piont is a few degrees off from 24BTDC you can adjust it by going around twice again on the crank stopping on 24 (no backing up) and move the pump to the Barely drips point. If it is more than a few degrees You'll have to R&R the pump again.

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Bob D.
Parrish, FL
1 SDL, 1 D, 1 TD, 1 Mog

Thanks for all the info, I'm going to try what h2odiesel has posted before I R&R the IP. I am working till 7pm and will try it tonight!

Sady: When I put the IP on i had allready installed the oil filter housing but it was still on the engine stand. Haven't tried it in the car..... at least not yet! Thanks!

The manual says you have to remove the filter housing. You don't! Remove the front three bolts and the one underneath in the back and remove the little bracket the back bolt goes through. Grab it by the ALDA and pull up and back. It comes out at an angle. Of course have all your lines and likage off.

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Bob D.
Parrish, FL
1 SDL, 1 D, 1 TD, 1 Mog

I assume you mean the 240D becasue I certainly tried on the 617 (the W116) and it certainly wasn't coming out from any angle with the filter housing in place.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

BHD, recently, the last time I pulled my IP, In my w126 300sd I DID NOT have to pull off the oil filter housing, This time all I did was take out the rack dampener, and then disconnected the oil cooler lines (also injection hard lines) and if you take that back bracket off, you can raise the rear of the IP and slide it out. It worked like this this time.

Im not sure about your 116, but Im sorry I didnt try harder the first time to figure this out.

Well in my case it didn't really add unneeded work becasue my gasket was leaking then anyway....now if you can get it off then it makes it a whole lot easier to adjust the full load limit on the pump....to some point that gets you power without melting your engine down. But I did certainly try every which way to do it....and never got it off....However I did not remove the Rack damper bolt and I really don't remember about that bracket either.....If I remember right I couldn't get to the upper bolts for that in the car....but I need to look at it again...and get that thing timed better....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche