My Haynes manual does not cover this, nor can I find it on skinnerbox. How can I adjust the "normal" ride heigth on my wagon?

__________________
1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles.....
Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner

2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles...

1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/
Anthracite Velour
260,512 miles (Eva)

1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex
4 Speed Manual
84,213 miles ????
Haus Frau


2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike
Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling)

Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit

I would like to know the answer to this, too. There is turnbuckle sort of rig in the rear swaybar linkage that plays a role, but I'm unclear on how to adjust the turnbuckle to change ride height. Do I lengthen or shorten the turnbuckle to raise the car? My pea-brain couldn't figure this out last time I was under there.

__________________
'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

I adjusted/lowered my rear suspension by tightening (shortening) the adjustable link, between the sway bar and control valve arm. I replaced my front springs with lowering springs and then adjusted the rear to match. I have had no problems with the rear since adjusting, rides nice. Here's a link to a pic of my car before and after lowering/adjusting:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1199271&posts=3&hl=

hey wannawagon, i switched to soy bean power (biodesiel) last week. yippie!!!

gary

Dude, that is one sweet wagon! Where did you get the lowering springs for the front and are they still available to purchase somewhere? I would love to do the same on mine.

And congrats on going with biodiesel! I still don't have a steady supply in my area, so I get it when I can and also run straight veggie oil blended with #2 dino fuel.

__________________
'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

You are correct about shortening the link to lower the rear. The MB manual warns about rising the rear too high and depending too much on the hydraulics for carrying the load. I set mine so the rear is just slightly higher than the front.

__________________
Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)

I am going to lengthen my rod then. I see FastLane has rear spring shims. I wonder if these are to adjust the heigth?

__________________
1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles.....
Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner

2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles...

1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/
Anthracite Velour
260,512 miles (Eva)

1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex
4 Speed Manual
84,213 miles ????
Haus Frau


2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike
Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling)

Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit

Oops, my bad...you lengthen the rod to lower the rear and shorten it, to raise the rear.

Thanks wannawagon. I got my springs from GMP Performance, but i think i got the last set. Thier web site is http://www.gmpperformance.com/products/suspension/springs/jamex.htm .

Here's another website that has lowering springs for your car, but they're in the Netherlands. http://www.platimex.nl/Brochure/Lowering_type_list.pdf .

tom9298, the shims are the rubber spring caps that are located at the top or bottom of your spring. i know that on the front springs, they are located on the top and MB offers 4 thickness', 8mm - 23mm, to adjust height. not sure if there are different sizes to choose from for the rear.

as for biodiesel, i'm lucky to have a local distributor. i love the smell of popcorn coming from my exhaust.

gary

Well, now we have conflicting info. You say lengthen the rod to drop the car, billrei says to shorten it. Which is it?

__________________
'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

On mine I had to shorten the linkage to raise the ride height. I remember because it is now adjusted as small as the link would go. Everything I have read says DON'T change the bracket position coming off the valve assy, but if the linkage was at the end of adjustment potential, wouldn't you have to?
I just had to order a new link for mine, as the cups tend to vaporize. $31 freakin dollars for that. Everywhere.
As you can see from the pics, I have the level of my wagon almost perfect at this time.....

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Under and/or on top of the front springs there is a rubber "boot"/ cap that has differnet heights with dots which indicate the thickness. My '82 wagon had as stock a cap with four dots(thick)- and I replaced the whole sprind set up with a non turbo wagon springs from the yards here that had 2 dots(thinner). The front end lowered about 1 3/4- 2 1/4 inches, but at the same time I removed the HD shocks and used comfort ones instead. Now my 82 wagon handles like the 80, which could previously run circles around the high riding bus of a 82. My suggestion to all wagon owners is to change to comfort shocks and thinner caps on top the front springs as a minimum for better handling/ better riding wagon. My cost was $30 for the springs at the yard, and a few bucks the mech to R&R the springs as I didn't have the time.

I had a new set of bilstien comfort shocks on mine, but didn't like the soft ride so i switched to HD's. I like the ride much better now as the car does not roll as much in the curves and is much more responsive. To each his own...

BTW, I have a pair of new front 8mm shims if anyone wants them...and they're free plus shipping cost. The 8mm plus the 45mm lowering springs dropped the car too much, so i went with 23mm shims.

Gary