sounds 2
 

reason i am talking about noises is that the bearings on a mb diesel are nigh on to impossible to wear out if proper care is given. hence i am concerned that your other bearings etc are shot as well.

the only benz motor that i have had to replace bearings on had everything under the sun worn out as well as if it had been run perhaps years wo an oil change. judging by the excellent condition of the rest of the car it looked as if perhaps the po had one of those screwwy ideas about not changing and only adding oil.

hope i'm wrong about yours.

When I drive this car it runs better than my '83 300D. It drives excellent, good acceleration and smooth running at highway speeds. It just knocks like crazy at idle. And the knock quits when you loosen the injector fuel line. Can the soot created by the EGR be blocking the air flow to that cylinder? I mean soot in the intake manifold? All of this is caused by no.1 cylinder. What really puzzles me is the increase in rpm's when the supply to no.1 is cracked.



Lee

No. 1 Cylinder seems to take the first hits becuase of the EGR (atleast I have noticed this).
Have you itallian tuned up this engine real good?
Mine makes noise at idle too but your lack of knock or anything while off idle makes me think it isn't all too terrible of a problem.
Hmm...

Have you checked your bearing clearance with Plastigage?

Is the bearing rutted or grooved by wear or some foreign object?

Does the journal show wear?

" Can the soot created by the EGR be blocking the air flow to that cylinder? I mean soot in the intake manifold? All of this is caused by no.1 cylinder. What really puzzles me is the increase in rpm's when the supply to no.1 is cracked."

Rather than in the intake manifold... maybe carbon has built up on the head , or in the precombustion chamber .....

slowing
 

yes, that is puzzling. you sure that the injector pipes are going to the right cylinders?

I tried using plastigauge but there wasn't room to get to both the rod bolts as the crank had to be turned slightly to get the torque wrench on the nuts for final tightening, so all I did was visually inspect the journal and it looked very smooth and shiny. The burr that was on the journal looked like it might have been caused by the studs on the rod. I put pieces of rubber hose on them when I took the cap off. Removing this burr took a lot of effort but it looked nice when I finished and you couldn't feel anything afterwards.
I did run a lot of diesel purge thru before I tried anything else and it didn't seem to make any difference. When I dropped the lower oil pan there wasn't any residue in the bottom like you would expect when oil hasn't been changed regularily. How hard is it to remove the prechamber? Is this a diy job? Lee

YES, the pipes are going to the correct cylinders.

I might want to study threads pertaining to these particular pumps. It was my understanding perhaps not correct that if fittings on top of pump were tampered with it does change the time of maximum pressure point to some extent on that individual cylinder.Or in otherwords varies the fuel timing for that individual icylinder. As you have the knock on # I and loosening # 1 injector gives you perhaps 30rpm instead of dropping some rpm it would not be unreasonable to suspect this. Perhaps not the greatest time to work on a car either as your wife has passed on and my condolances. On the otherhand perhaps the distraction is good so do a little reading about that pump may be in order. This mention may jar someones mind that is more knowledgeable to post on this problem as well.

Barry, you could be on to something with the valves on the pump. Lee, maybe you could try this - disconnect injector lines, turn them around so they face away from the engine, and put injectors on the far end. put glass jars under them and crank engine while watching spray patterns. If #1 has a different response than the others, especially if it still does when you swap injectors, then I believe this isolates the problem to the IP. I think others here have done something like this before. You probably already know this, but hands off the injectors while cranking. The injection pressure can easily put fuel through your skin and cause blood poisoning.

ljderby
 

after reading your identifying stuff i realize that it was probably an insult to ask about the pipes... sorry... sometimes it is easy to miss the obvious.

I didn't take it as an insult. Sometimes I overlook the "very" obvious. I am just grateful that I can get responses from you good members.


Lee

Barry, I think you may be thinking about a setting inside the pump which can be used to compensate for an old pump... different thicknesses of washers can be installed.... Where is TomJ when we need him ?
If that nut next to the fuel pipes on top of the IP is moved then I think everyone agrees that the ONLY way to reset it is on a bench at an authorized Bosch injection place..

Pulling the prechambers is a do it yourself job... but there seems to be a mental block affecting most of our members.... thinking it is ' too deep' into the engine for them to go... when the FSM suggests taking them out to check for several things.... also, the price of the screw out tool is high.. like $325 ... but the slide hammer arrangement seems to work fine for all those who have reported using it... and some of these things can be rented...

Lee,
If you ended up needing to remove the prechambers and wanted some help, I am sure dad and myself could slide down to Salem sometime and help you out. Seems that the diesel benz owners in the Northwest are few and far between. (Atleast ones involved with the forum).

Thanks Brandon, I surely do appreciate the offer and I might take you up on it after I take the EGR valve off and have a look. The wind and rain have put a delay into doin much work in the driveway. Will let you know how things turn out when I can get to it.


Lee