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  #16  
Old 03-15-2005, 09:15 PM
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I'll Go Upside Your Head!
 
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Location: Dallas, TX
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...And a 110 is better because there's not as much to go wrnog on it. So, either way you look at it...

A 110 diesel even uses hard return lines. That means you just remove the lines to R&R the injectors, no new line to replace. The over-engineering has gone down steadily since those days.

Thanks
David

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  #17  
Old 03-15-2005, 09:52 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rg2098
The W123 is better because its simpler and not as much to go wrong.
Well, then, it appears that the 123 ought to get $hitcanned in favor of a Kia.
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2005, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Well, then, it appears that the 123 ought to get $hitcanned in favor of a Kia.
I don't like you anymore.
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  #19  
Old 03-15-2005, 10:07 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgryphon
I just did the drivers side on my ’82 240 D. Took out the seat and flipped it over. Did not remove any covers, pads, etc. I had no broken springs as far as I could tell, just weak. I put cut lengths of the whole noodle long ways through the Z shaped springs, around the sides and front. Added vertical noodle with angled slits shoved into the coil springs at the front corners. Viola! Fantastic! 1.33 noodles at a cost of $1.44 per noodle. Passenger side and rear seat this weekend. Just shove ‘em where you think they will fit. Wear gloves, lots of sharp stuff under there.

Clay
Do you or anyone else have pictures of the pool noodle fix? I definitely have sag-seat syndrome.
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2001 ML430 My Spare

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'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
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  #20  
Old 03-15-2005, 10:56 PM
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Location: Northwest, Arkansas
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Will try to get some pic’s this weekend.

Search around a bit here, maybe in the sticky’s, for seat removal, at least that’s where I think I found it for the W123. Should be easier this time on the passenger side, as there is no height adjustment. Follow the directions on moving the seat forward and back to get clear access to the bolts. You have to remove a couple of large springs on the driver side that help retract the seat, they are not part of the seat box. They will pinch the dickens out of you. You also have to disconnect the thing that I think goes to the seat belt warning light. Disconnect this from the little clip thing under the seat and unplug it. It’s just a little 3 prong plug.

Once the seat hold down bolts were loose (10mm if I recall) I just leaned the whole works back and rotated until it was laying on it’s outboard side, headrest on the back seat, front of seat bottom near the passenger door. Grab by the bottom seat cushion and the headrest and just lift and rotate it out. Easy clearance all around for me, even on the steering wheel side.

Once out, just get where you can see the spring box on the bottom of the seat. Note that at this point and through the remainder of the operation the seat stays in one piece (headrest, armrest, seat back, all covering, cushions, pads, rails, map pocket…….) Just look under there at the springs and start stuffing in the noodles. Jam it in the Z shaped spring openings, angle cut and fit in the coils, etc. The only thing I tried to do was avoid any bulges in the side covering, or stuff so much around that it changed the general shape or dynamics of the seat itself. Basically you are just helping to support the existing springs by putting this very resilient foam in there.

Not much to it. You get your seat out and your noodle in your hand and you enjoy yourself! PUN INTENDED!

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