I met up with Anthony again today and he scanned/cleared my codes.. still came up with P0400 EGR flow malfunction.

We concluded the "vacuum cleaner" noise was not normal.. and to check the intake/intercooler piping for cracks, leaks, etc.

I went through the whole system today with a fine tooth comb and found a tear/hole on the passenger side hose that runs into the intercooler.. that is where the noise is coming from. Made a temporary fitting and the noise is gone but the computer still cuts boost after a minute.. I'm stumped.

Send an email to either Gilly or DR. DIESEL. They don't watch this forum, but probably would be willing and able to help.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

I sent you a PM.
Vac diagram included.
Dr.D

Jump the switchover valve (should just have to jump the ground side I believe) and see what the effect is on the switchover valve and the egr valve itself. I'm sorry I haven't had the time to read through the thread, so if this type of stuff has been done already, sorry. I assume you already cleaned all the "coal dust" out of the intake and inspected the egr, if not replaced it, so you want to study the electronics and switchover valve, etc. This is were it helps to have the SDS, because you could use the activation screen to command the switchover valve to switch over. I don't lke the sound of a temporary repair done on the intake/intercooler system as far as a low power situation, this stuff is all real critical, but unsure if you'd get an egr code out of it.
Maybe you could ask someone with WIS like aklim if he can forward the info fro the DM section in wis on that particular codes, paying especilly close attention to the reasons for the code, all the basic stuff.
Gilly

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Thank you very much for your help! The car's vacuum system is now plummbed correctly. The EGR and Intake have both been cleaned. MAP sensor and intake temp sensor have both been replaced. I'm replacing all the plastic fuel lines and associated o-rings as we speak.

Seems when the boost is cut off (1-3 minutes after driving the car) both vaccum valves will have power cut to them, allowing inadequate vaccum to flow through them and not opening the wastegate and EGR valves.

What sensor(s) determine this?

Replaced all plastic fuel lines and shutoff o-ring, where a good amount of diesel was leaking from. No more air bubbles in fuel lines, starts quicker, no more nailing but turbo problem still persists. I checked and re-checked the EGR valve while the intake was out of the car for this job, all passages are clear and the EGR valve works fine with vacuum applied.

John

After you re-did the vacuum connections did you verify that you had a good (28 in hg) supply of vacuum available at the EGR solenoid?

Yes sir.. vaccum goes in at 29-30Hg and comes out proportonal to throttle position. When the car goes into limp mode after a minute, no vaccum comes out of it.

Turbodiesel-
Here is a little more info.

Your PO code 400 is MB code P1403 (EGR valve pressure transducer Y31/1)
These are what MB lists as possible causes.
*Vent filter dirty, CHECK THIS FIRST!
*Pressure lines,
*Pressure supply,
*Wiring,
*EGR valve pressure transducer (Y31/1),

There are 2 listed test steps in the MB Diagnostic manual for IFI fuel system
for this code.

Check the current draw of Y31/1 by placing an amp meter inline with it.
The spec is .8-1.2 amps. when activated by the fuel system. If out of this range, check wiring, connectors, or Y31/1 itself.
The second test is to test the EGR valve by applying 400mbar of vac. to the EGR valve directly with a vacuum/pressure tester (Mityvac). It should close. If not, EGR valve is faulty. 400mbar is MB spec.

You should also verify correct operating vacuum at the other transducer.
Boost pressure control/pressure control flap vacuum transducer (Y31/5)

Test connections:
Connect vacum/pressure tester with Y- fitting, between Y31/5 "OUT" outlet and boost pressure control valve.
Check vacuum at Y31/5 "OUT" outlet. Engine: at CTP (idle) Spec = >350 mbar.
Accelerate briefly from 1,500 rpm to 3,500 rpm: Spec = < 400 mbar and
Intake manifold pressure rises.
If out of spec, Check Y31/1 vent filter for being dirty.

Verify correct system vacuum as needed.
Test connections:
Connect vacum/pressure tester with Y- fitting between vacuum supply lines.
Engine: At CTP (idle) Spec = >700 mbar.
If out of spec, inspect Vacuum pump on engine and all Main supply lines.

I hope this helps you along in your diagnosis. Remember, if there are any leaks in the Charge air circut (after the Turbo), you can have the same Code
occur as well.

Best wishes,
Dr.Diesel

Great stuff - with this info John will have it fixed in his next session.

Thanks much Dr Diesel

Yes ...John will have it fixed.
No doubt...

THANK YOU for your help everyone.. it looks like it's fixed.

After reading DR. DIESEL's post last night I started taking vacuum readings on the wastegate transducer. After playing with it, the car ran great.. so I thought to myself "what could have changed?" Only thing I touched was the wastegate transducer.

Turns out the electrical connections were bad and shorting the system out, apparently that same line controls the EGR transducer. I replaced a connector and all is well so far. I'll keep you guys updated.

Glad you got it fixed. Now have fun burning up the New Jersey roads.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Thanks, I bookmarked this thread.

The sad part is I should have looked there in the beginning. The mass air flow connector was sloppily taped together with electrical tape and the wastegate transducer was not only plummbed backwards, but installed 180 degrees wrong, making the wire connecting it stretch very tightly. The short was not obvious to the naked eye.. but interal to the connector or in the wire itself from being stressed. My thinking is it would short out sometime while driving and cut the power to the circuit. That's why it would work and then not work so intermittantly.

I bought a new connector at MB and correctly installed a new one soldering it in and using heat shrink tubing, the correct way. The coolant recirculation pump connector was also broken off.. repaired that as well. When I unwrapped the mess of a MAF wire, the wires fell apart in my hand from being sloppily crimped together. I resoldered them and wrapped them correctly. Seems the "techs" employed at this dealership aren't very qualified.

Got my code scaner today, reset all codes (about 5 of them) and no codes are re appearing.. it appears it's fixed!!! What a weight off my shoulders!