Well, last night I finally began the process to replace the glow plugs. A friend came over and suggested that since he had the night off we should get the job done! Projects always seem to be easier on the brain when you have a helper and someone to bounce ideas off of. Took off the cross-over. This was easy. Then took off the intake manifold. This was much less easy. Needed swivel socket adapter and a lot of patience to remove a few of the hex bolts, but all came off. there was no coke build-up as I have heard from other board members. I'll take that as a good sign.

Man, there a lot of little hangers bolted to the manifold. I broke a few of the plastic hangers that hold the injection fuel lines. These were very brittle and broke with finger pressure. I'll buy some replacements today.

Stuffed rags in the ports so that no contamination will get into the engine. Then came the glow plug removal. The #1 plug was very tight after removing it from the threads but it came out. The rest were easier.

Today's job is to buy the reamer and put it all back together. I hope it all goes back easily. Wish I had a diagram or parts explosion chart. That would make it easier.

Also, the hot terminal (stud) on the starter solenoid corroded off. So again with swivel adapter and the electric hammer gun the bolts holding the starter came out. managed to fish the starter out from below. The stud on the solenoid won't come out, must be stripped in the socket so I'll have to buy a new solenoid today, then reinstall the starter.

More work than I bargained for but no turning back now!

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www.jerseyplanning.com
1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car

Might be a good time to replace the delivery valve seals.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Is that the valve stem seal kit???

__________________
www.jerseyplanning.com
1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car

These are seals in the delivery valves which are in the area of where the injector lines attach to the IP. Much easier to work on the delivery valves with the manifold off.

The 603 doesn't have problems with valve stem seals and it's a real PITA to replace 603 valve stem seals without pulling the head.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

How do I know if they need replacing??

__________________
www.jerseyplanning.com
1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car

The obvious indication is nailing. Hard starting, rough idle, loss of performance, etc. to varying degrees are symptoms as well. If it hasn't been done in 250K miles, I expect you'll see some improvement.

There's also the if it ain't broke don't fix it school of thought so see what others have to say.

You need a special splined socket to remove and torque the delivery valve holders.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

The delivery valve o-rings are bad if you have a fuel leak at the top of the IP. If you see dried or wet fuel around the lines where they connect to the IP, you need new delivery valve o-rings and seals (crush washers). If you do the delivery valve job I have 6 of the seals (cruch washers) yoiu can have for $5 shipping included. You'll have to buy the o-rings though.

Thanks
David

__________________
_____________________________________________

2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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jfikentscher - I would be happy to rent for a nominal fee the spline tool and the GP reamer as a set. I've done that to another member who managed to do the job without the big tool expense. PM me if interested. We are trying to get you all set, what a wonderful place this Shopforum, eh?!
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 106441
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 296650
1983 300D 243280
1985 300TD 223470
1987 300D 262300

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Sorry about hijacking the thread but... Sixto, what you said about valve seals is how mine acts. how hard a job is this in a 78 300D? i wouldn't do it myself but wonder how much it should cost??
PM me if the answer is long...
thanks,
robert

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Current money-pits:
96 Passat TDI
78 300D 100k miles(60miles/day)FOR SALE
91 Jetta Diesel 250k miles (80miles/day)
82 Toyota Diesel pickup 150k miles; out of service for a little while with a valve problem.
All on BelenBioDiesel
Past diesels:
01 Golf TDI
81 Isuzu P/U
85 Jetta
89 KW 425 cat
85 Pete 400 cat (currently still running the west coast with over 1.5 million miles)
81 KW 400 Cummins
77 Freightliner CO ???? Cummins (Buttercup)
57 180D lots of miles(gone but not forgotten)

Well, I decided not to replace the valve seals. Not broke, don't fix. Installed the glow plugs last night and buttoned up the top of the engine. Tonite I attack the starter replacement. Should be reasonably easy. 2 bolts and two wire hookups.

Then I turn the key.........

__________________
www.jerseyplanning.com
1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car

Well, all was a success. Finished last night. Started the car this morning, cycled the glow plugs turned the key and in less than a second the car was started.

Now to attack the thermostat!!!

Joe

__________________
www.jerseyplanning.com
1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car

do ya think that was part of the hard starting problem???

__________________
Current money-pits:
96 Passat TDI
78 300D 100k miles(60miles/day)FOR SALE
91 Jetta Diesel 250k miles (80miles/day)
82 Toyota Diesel pickup 150k miles; out of service for a little while with a valve problem.
All on BelenBioDiesel
Past diesels:
01 Golf TDI
81 Isuzu P/U
85 Jetta
89 KW 425 cat
85 Pete 400 cat (currently still running the west coast with over 1.5 million miles)
81 KW 400 Cummins
77 Freightliner CO ???? Cummins (Buttercup)
57 180D lots of miles(gone but not forgotten)

Before attacking the delivery valve seals, run a bottle or two of Lubro Moly Diesel Purge through the system. Don't pour it in the fuel tank, have the IP suck it directly. There are instructions in the archives. If you order from www.************************, they'll include instructions and hoses.

If that doesn't do a good enough job, then consider replacing the delivery valve o-rings and crush washers. It's not a difficult job in a 617 since there's nothing but the injection lines above the IP. You'll need a special splined socket. I don't know if the 603 splined socket works in a 617.

I can probably do it in an hour with $20 in parts so I don't expect a independent will charge more than $150 for the job.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Sixto, i thought he was talking about the valve seals above the actual valves in the head... and i was too. so, your talking about seals or o rings on top of the pump just below the injector lines?

__________________
Current money-pits:
96 Passat TDI
78 300D 100k miles(60miles/day)FOR SALE
91 Jetta Diesel 250k miles (80miles/day)
82 Toyota Diesel pickup 150k miles; out of service for a little while with a valve problem.
All on BelenBioDiesel
Past diesels:
01 Golf TDI
81 Isuzu P/U
85 Jetta
89 KW 425 cat
85 Pete 400 cat (currently still running the west coast with over 1.5 million miles)
81 KW 400 Cummins
77 Freightliner CO ???? Cummins (Buttercup)
57 180D lots of miles(gone but not forgotten)

The condition of valve seals has no real bearing on engine noise or starting. Pretty much only affects exhaust smoke and longevity of the valve guides.

So yes, I was talking about delivery valve seals.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL