Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    


Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-24-2005, 11:36 AM
Member since 2000
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Flemington, NJ
Posts: 1,143
Changing coolant & thermostat 98 E300

I've concluded my thermostat is stuck open, which could be contributing to my EGR problem in a round-about way. I've leared that if the engine does not warm up fast enough, it will throw off the computer and send an EGR code thinking the system isn't working properly (damn new diesel engine electronics!).

My car constantly runs at 70-75c on the display which I feel is too cold. Every other diesel I've had runs at 80-85c. The thermostat job looks simple, just like on a 603 engine it is right by the turbo and easy to access.

Now the problem is my car is full of the GREEN STUFF. After reading some posts here I see there is a drain on the radiator and a drain on the passenger rear of the block. Then I plan on running a garden hose through the thermostat opening and radiator and overflow to get the rest of the green stuff out before I put the proper MB coolant in so I don't have any problems.

Any thoughts or suggestions before I proceed? Thanks.

Oh, and how much does the system hold? Should I get one or two gallons of MB stuff to make 2 or 4 gallons?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-24-2005, 01:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorktown, VA.
Posts: 94
cost of MB antifreeze

Sorry for not directly answering your question. I just have a couple of comments. I replaced my thermostat recently and refilled the system with the MB antifreeze. I bought 2 gallons of the stuff from the local dealer a couple of weeks ago. It was $25/gal. Unbelievable. At that price the MB antifreeze had better be a LOT better than the standard green stuff I drained out.

FWIW, the inside of my cooling system looked very clean. The previous owner of my car was definitely not a stickler on a lot of maintenance issues. So, I bet my car ran the cheap green antifreeze most of its 20 years. Apparently to little ill effect. Many on this forum have strong opinions on the issue, though. At $50/change I won't be buying it again.

Since I had some on hand already, I ran some citric acid flush through mine before refilling it. I won't do that again anytime soon. The FSM specifies at least 3 flushes with clean water afterward with several minutes of run time in between draining. With the need to cool the engine before removing the plug in the block, the water flush took most of a morning to finish.

Your owners manual should list the capacity of the cooling system.

Thermostat replacement is covered in great detail in many posts in the archives. A quick search will tell all.
__________________
1985 300SD, 203,000 miles, dark blue

Lil Sarah says: "Poor old Grandma Blue Car...She's sad."
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-24-2005, 01:10 PM
Sportlines
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 985
Zerex G-05 Approved by Daimler-Chrysler Worldwide.
It's been available for at least a year.
No reason to buy MB Coolant, but prior to this I bought
MB Coolant at local dealer, and it wasn't anything like $25.00/ Gallon.

Steve
'92 300E Sportline 219K
'93 300E Sportline 254K
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-24-2005, 01:19 PM
Rick Miley's Avatar
Spark Free
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 3,062
turbudiesel - your procedure sounds fine, although you might want to run some flush through there if the inside of the system is nasty. The capacity is in the owner's manual, but I don't have it with me. Drove the 300D to work today.
__________________
Rick Miley
99 E300 TurboDiesel
82 300D Euro
00 VW Jetta TDI
12 Honda Pilot
14 Tesla Model S
Former MB: 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D
Chain Elongation References
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-24-2005, 01:44 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,112
I helped my friend do his last year, off the top of my head I think it took a bit over a gallon. Maybe 5 quarts +/-?

Yep it sounds like your thermostat is bad, his warms up pretty fast even on very cold days. Much faster then my SDL does.
__________________
2005 Chevy Silverado, white on black.

"No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms. The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
-Thomas Jefferson
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-24-2005, 04:50 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,950
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodiesel
I've concluded my thermostat is stuck open, which could be contributing to my EGR problem in a round-about way. I've leared that if the engine does not warm up fast enough, it will throw off the computer and send an EGR code thinking the system isn't working properly (damn new diesel engine electronics!).

My car constantly runs at 70-75c on the display which I feel is too cold. Every other diesel I've had runs at 80-85c.
How long does it take your car to get to steady operating temperature? You could just as easily have a faulty temperature sensor or dash-display. Mine also usually runs below 80, but not all the way down at 70, usually maybe a needle width or so below 80 and I always attributed it to sensor error.

It does take a LONG time to warm up though. Usually about 15-20 minutes of driving in cold (below 20 degrees F or so) weather. I have heard though that this is normal because the cooling system on these cars directs coolant to the heater core, the fuel heater and the windshield washer heater all before the thermostat would even open. I imagine the fuel heater sucks a lot of heat out too because it is constantly circulating fuel from the tank. It would seem that with all of those heat sinks the radiator would barely get warm in a cold climate

Also, I buy the MB coolant online for about $17 a gallon with free shipping...the list on it from the dealer is only $19 so you got hosed.
__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-24-2005, 06:16 PM
Member since 2000
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Flemington, NJ
Posts: 1,143
I drove it today for about 150 miles.. on the interstate the car runs at 70-75c.. if I let it idle for a while it will get to 80-82c. I've never had this much of a temp. flucuation in any other diesel i've owned. Mine does take a bit of time to warm up.

So far I have a few people telling me that my temp readings are normal, and a few telling me my car is running to cold (like I think it is).
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-24-2005, 06:45 PM
jfikentscher's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wall, New Jersey
Posts: 550
I have an 87 300d. My thermostat must be stuck open also. I'm having a devil of a time getting a wrench on the bolts to the thermostat housing. Any suggestions??
__________________
www.jerseyplanning.com
1987 300TD 440K - My car
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 107K - Tim's car
2000 - CLK320 100K - Deb's car
1994 C230 150K - Josh's Car
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-24-2005, 07:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,950
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodiesel
I drove it today for about 150 miles.. on the interstate the car runs at 70-75c.. if I let it idle for a while it will get to 80-82c. I've never had this much of a temp. flucuation in any other diesel i've owned. Mine does take a bit of time to warm up.

So far I have a few people telling me that my temp readings are normal, and a few telling me my car is running to cold (like I think it is).
I looked at my gauge again and mine also will run at about 75 I guess and it also fluctuates up to 80 or a little higher and sometimes a little below 75, but not quite to 70. Mine is also an '98. When it is cold outside and I stop at a drive-up window before the car has fully warmed up the temp will actually drop down 10-20 degrees. If I started it cold in the morning I think it would have to idle for a really long time before it would warm up without driving it. That is also a function of the efficiency of the motor which doesn't produce a lot of waste heat after it heats the cabin, wiper fluid and fuel.

I really think it is a matter of the cooling systems on these cars being so burdened with heating things other than the radiator that makes them behave this way. That and the aluminum heads which just don't hold heat the same way the old steel ones would makes them more likely to fluctuate. Maybe I am wrong, but it seems that your car and mine react very similarly...either we both have the same problem or ours are both "normal" which is my thought. I'd like to hear from other '98 and '99 owners in colder climates for their experiences with warmup times and operating temperatures though.

I was also considering changing the thermostat and when I researched it online the parts place said that I had to replace the thermostat housing too because the original T-stat for the '98 and '99 had been redesigned and the new ones will not fit the old housings...does anyone know about this??
__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Last edited by nhdoc; 03-24-2005 at 07:37 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-25-2005, 09:16 PM
Member since 2000
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Flemington, NJ
Posts: 1,143
I replaced the thermostat just now and as I suspected it was partially defective. The car runs at a steady 80-82c just like I thought it should. Anyone with a lower reading, I think you have a defective thermostat. Easy job!

I left the green coolant in, I asked how much a gallon was at the dealer.. $20!! Over doubled the price when I last bought it.. the parts guy said a chemical that is used to make it is in short supply.. sounds like BS to me.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-26-2005, 11:44 AM
michakaveli's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 1,688
Anyone ever add the RedLine water wetter?

Would that help at all or would adding it just be for giggles?
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,950
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodiesel
I replaced the thermostat just now and as I suspected it was partially defective. The car runs at a steady 80-82c just like I thought it should. Anyone with a lower reading, I think you have a defective thermostat. Easy job!

Were you able to buy just the thermostat or was there an issue with the housing too? I am wondering why the parts list says the new thermostats won't fit the old housings...did you buy the T-Stat at the dealer?
__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:58 PM
Member since 2000
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Flemington, NJ
Posts: 1,143
I just bought the thermostat from the dealer.. direct replacement. No issues.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-26-2005, 01:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,950
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodiesel
I just bought the thermostat from the dealer.. direct replacement. No issues.
Great, thanks...I'll drop by mt dealership and pick one up as well. How much did they get for the part?

I suspect mine may be a little "lazy" and doesn't close completely. It never runs hot but does take a long time to warm up, though the heat does come up pretty quickly while it is warming up.

Did you just open the housing and let whatever came out spill or did you drain the system first? Is there a gasket or is it just a seal ring around the T-stat?
__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-26-2005, 01:09 PM
Member since 2000
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Flemington, NJ
Posts: 1,143
Yes, that was I suspect with mine too.. a little "lazy". I got it for $25+tax.. one of those items that makes sense to buy at the dealer.

I drained the radiator and coolant tank VIA the valve on the driver side of the radiator under the car.. I got about 3 gallons out. Took off a heater hose that is right beside the thermostat housing for easier access to the bottom bolt of the t-stat housing, then took off the two bolts that hold the housing to the block. The new thermostat comes with a rubber gasket that fits around the thermostat.. a one-piece deal. Easy as pie. I filled it up as much as I could.. started it up and waited for the t-stat to open (which took a LONG time) and topped it off with another quart or two of water.
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2005, 01:09 PM
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
changing coolant newkid Tech Help 10 07-07-2009 07:24 PM
Coolant RED vs. GREEN CJ Tech Help 79 05-23-2009 07:07 PM
Another Thermostat Adventure MT_Wessels Diesel Discussion 34 02-10-2005 09:23 PM
Changing Coolant & Hoses - '98ML320 fema ML, GL, G-Wagen, R-Class, Unimog, Sprinter 5 12-21-2004 04:33 AM
Changing thermostat mreid Tech Help 2 01-05-2000 01:48 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page