Installed a Motor Guard bypass fillter today!
 

Boy what a PITA!! I had to tap and die a brass trailer brake "T" fitting to fit (METRIC) oil filter housing.

Filters the oil down to 1 micron :D

Full flow filters, filter about 600 gals. per hour.

Bypass filters filter at about 15 gal. per hour through 4.5" of soild media.

I will post pics. latter.

Interesting
 

Look forward to the pictures of this.

Matt,

I am very interested in your progress. Got a MG filter here sitting on the shelf waiting for installation. Was thinking about tapping into the oil sensor plastic line connected to oil gauge.

I've been reading a lot about bypass setups here recently too... I couldn't really figure out a way to put one on the Benz due to it's different oil filter setup. I was getting most of my info from "Amsoil" regarding them and Bobistheoilguy.com too.

I'd consider syn oil if I had that setup and got rid of my few oil leaks I have. Take that OPEC ;)



Are you running the OE filter still in addition to the full flow and bypass filter?

What oil are you running currently with that setup?

So any update on this? :ears: :juggle2: :smash: :wideeyed: :vbac47679

I hope that brass T-fitting isn't going straight into the block.


Why you ask?

In the honda world when you build a LS-Vtec "Frankenstein" motor you need to plumb an external oil line to the head....vibration fatiges the brass and it breaks....then dumps your oil and pressure in short order. If its attached to the block use a steel T fitting....or use a flex line and attach the T fitting to the fender. There are too many cases of failure of the brass fitting for me to not comment on it here.

That's good advice to keep in mind - thanks!

[QUOTE=Matt SD300]Boy what a PITA!! I had to tap and die a brass trailer brake "T" fitting to fit (METRIC) oil filter housing.

..... soild media. /QUOTE]


It's "soild" alright...by diesel soot ! :) I think Matt means "dense media" (dense toilet paper)rather than "solid".

I have a "Motor Guard" filter on my Diesel Jetta. I think you will like it. They have a very positive seal among other qualities.

One caution I would toss out while not knowing the details of your installation...make sure your set-up won't drain the factory filter housing as it sits awhile. If this happens, then you are getting a "dry" start when you start the car after it has sat for a time. I think it's obvious that this would not be good.

I will post some pics. Thurs.
 

The filter is working great.

No loss in oil pressure or delay of pressure at start up.

The brass T is very heavy guage. Its inside diameter (oil passage )is only 1/16 of a inch. It is plumed off the oil filter housing. The Motor Guard filter housing is mounted HIGHER than the oil pressure "T " fitting so threre is no chance of draining the stock oil filter.

I have change one roll of "tp" and it came out nice and soild. The Motor Guard "compresses" the "tp" making it the tp very dense. When changed it comes out solid black and hard as brick. :D

Changing the filter takes a little time about 5 minutes. You have unscrew the the filter housing T handle to release the pressure so the the tp housing can drain the back to the oil pan.

Bypass fitration is the hot ticket for a longer lived motor. Do search on google, lots of info! ;)

I know all about bypass setups, but pics man! :D

Yea what he said up there :huepfenic

hook us up dude :D

Here's some pics.
 

I pulled oil pressure off the oil filter housing for the "IN"on the Motor Guard. And plumed the drain (OUT)to the oil separator drain on the oil pan. I have also kept the K&N air filter but made a trick pre filter out of very dense foam. As you can see the K&N is very clean after 1000 miles. The down side is I hardly can hear the turbo now, :(

I Paid about $60.00 for the Motor Guard filter to the door. :D

The Motor Guard filter is ...
 

Not leaking I made a little mess on the first filter change! :eek:

What model is that? I called Motorguard and they told me that they have not tested any of there own for an oil bypass filtration system.